Quick Canoe options regarding sternpost and sailing like a duck punt

Hi all,

I have a few questions regarding the quick canoe design that I was hoping some folks may be able to help me with.

I have bought the plans for the quick canoe and will be building in a few weeks time. However, I was wondering if:

• can stern/stem posts be added to the design to join up with the keel? If so would I put a rebate in it to receive the sheers?
• I have a 25' sprit sail I wish to add, is any reinforcement required where the mast partner will go? i.e. a converted seat in the plans.
• has anyone sailed it like a duck punt with no leeboards and just a steering oar?

Cheers,
Ben

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Originally Posted by Benjamin W

Hi all,

I have a few questions regarding the quick canoe design that I was hoping some folks may be able to help me with.

I have bought the plans for the quick canoe and will be building in a few weeks time. However, I was wondering if:

• can stern/stem posts be added to the design to join up with the keel? If so would I put a rebate in it to receive the sheers?

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Howdy Ben,

That''s not the normal way. Basically the gunwales will be continuous to the ends of the boat so no need to rebate the inwales or tie in the keel. The strength is in the plywood. All you have to do is tie the plywood together. Whether it is glass tape or fillets or timber, then it works. Be aware that the angle of the bow is different at the top compared to the bottom. You need to be able to work that out from measureing the drawings and make it of course.

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• I have a 25' sprit sail I wish to add, is any reinforcement required where the mast partner will go? i.e. a converted seat in the plans.

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The sail is big enough for an experiment and will probably sail OK with one person aboard in medium winds. Not seats, they are not strong enough. I would suggest instead of one central spreader that you make two with no spreader in the middle of the boat. One can double as the partner. It will need to be about 125 x 19 timber with some 6mm ply around the mast hole to provide some extra bearing surface for the mast. 19mm bearing surface is not enough. 25 is ok. Ply just needs to be a minimum of 25mm bigger than the hole and well glued down with epoxy.

The two spreader bars don't need to be symmetrically placed. The second one can be somewhere out of the way.

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• has anyone sailed it like a duck punt with no leeboards and just a steering oar?

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No. Might work or might not. Worth a try as you have everything on hand. You have to think about what you lose if it doesn't work. Or look at the drop in sailing rig plan option.

MIK

Hi Mik,

Thanks for your input - it's great having words straight from the designer!

What I meant for a sternpost joining up to the keel, wasn't for the gunwhales to join up, but a stern post running down the front of the bow (both ends) to join to the keel in continuity.

Thanks for the info regarding the spreaders - I will draught some options up from the information you have provided and post up here to see what you think.

Cheers!
Ben

Here's an idea I had incorporating stern posts and two spreaders with a seat in original position as per your plans. Mast partner is 1/4th aft leaving room for leeboard if needed between centres of canoe and sail. There is also room for jib. Also has potential for a topsail and mizzen too. A rudder can be added with an extended tiller.

Attachment 326147

One thought is how the boat will have to be trimmed to go straight in terms of crew weight. You could leave the bow and stern skegs on for first trials then adjust them by planing off the one providing too much "grip". Until you tune the boat to go straight in normal comfortable sailing conditions.

MIK

Hi Mik,

Thanks for liking my sketch. I have some technical drawings regarding the details if you would like to run your eye and mind over?

With regard to grip. Would you suggest before setting sail on the whole thing planing a bit off the bow? Or leave it all as to plan. I have read elsewhere of guys planing an inch off the entire keel - would this be an idea to follow? not quite sure of the physics of it all at the moment - a bit of a newby to naval architecture!

Regards,
Ben

As someone who has built a QC (but not sailed), and also as someone who has built and sailed a duckpunt, I want to say you are more than welcome to try, but realize the duckpunt design is dramatically different than the QC in order to do what it does well-- sail without rudder or CB. Just because they are flat bottomed and 15' long and somewhat both double ended does not mean equal sameness. Look closely at the duckpunt's very minimal rocker, with the aft half of the boat built quite out of synchronization with the front half.

Too bad you are on the other side of the planet, otherwise we could compare, it would be an interesting exercise, but the hull shape is actually very different. Do try, but retain the option to add a leeboard and rudder to the QC, or at least a leeboard. Don't get discouraged.

Hi (Callsign222),

Thanks for the comparison of difference between the two, its great to hear from someone with both! The rocker difference does make sense. I figured I would end up making leeboards for it. I'll take it for a test I reckon before engineering up a rudder and see how I go from there.

Cheers,
Ben

Consider an oar for steering, for sure, and try before you build to keep it simple. It's better than work and let us know how it goes!

Oh yes a steering oar was considered right from the start! Will keep all updated on the progress. First I must finish a few jobs off then I'll have some weekend times to work on it all and get it out onto the Georges and Woronora for Christmas time :)

Cheers,
Ben