I am currently making a bench out of repurposed hardwood 4 x 2's. I am wondering what most people finish it with. I was thinking of something like Danish oil.
Any pros or cons would be appreciated.
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I am currently making a bench out of repurposed hardwood 4 x 2's. I am wondering what most people finish it with. I was thinking of something like Danish oil.
Any pros or cons would be appreciated.
Gday Quinny01
I used an outdoor furniture oil (from Masters) because it would dry properly.
No regrets, probably due for a re do soon, been a couple of years or so.
cheers
Keith
The traditional bench finish is boiled linseed oil but the first two suggestions would be ok also. Quite often it's whatever finish you have laying around. Oil finishes are easier to touch up down the track when things start looking a bit shabby.
Regards
John
Don't use more than a single coat on top (of whatever oil you choose - Danish Oil is fine). No wax! The idea is to avoid a slippery surface. The sides, etc can have a few coats.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I have used boiled linseed oil for my top. I also used that for the wooded handled garden tools after the original polish comes off.
Hi guys
Danish Oil is essentially a mixture of boilded linseed, polyurethane and turps. To avoid surface build up I think it should be applied as wipe-on rather than with a paint brush. And don't forget to coat all surfaces to stop uneven drying and timber movement. I like an extra coat on end grain and in the dog holes.
Traditionalists may prefer to leave out the poly and put on some extra coats. Remember BLO dries slowly.
Cheers
Graeme
Grandad's secret formula.
- 1 Ltr Boiled Linseed Oil
- 1 Ltr Pure Gum Turpentine
- finely grated piece of beeswax about the size of a hen's egg
Mix it all together, let it sit for a couple of days for everything to soften together. Shake well before applying.
Apply heavily and allow to soak in overnight, wipe up the excess and return to the jar for next time.
Allow to dry and buff lightly with a soft cloth. Reapply every year or so as required.
Beautiful surface to work on, not slippery at all.
Keep the jar in a cool place. It will last for years.
I wonder if everyone agrees with sealing dog holes, I was thinking for a while asking if applying anything was a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by GraemeCook
I have been using titebond drippings to seal timbers recently so thought I might ask also.
Gonna give the Cosman "a better bench dog" bench dogs a go, but might try finding better springs.
What do ya think? will applying anything whether it be a finish glue. or even both be a good idea based on the design?
I made my dogs at 88 degrees like the Klausz plans if that comes into the equation.
Tom
I used Organoil Danish Oil on mine.
It doesn't have the poly mixed in and is just an oil finish. It's holding up really well so far. It will get a re-coat after my finished bench goes through it's first full wet season and I re-flatten it.
The only issue is the very strong orange aroma that can take quite a while to dissipate. Ventilation is your friend when using this danish oil mix on a large surface.
Doug3030Quote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
Thanks for the recipe! Does it work for tool handles too?
Yvan
Absolutely :2tsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by yvan
I've used it on lathe tools, hammers, mallets, axes, brooms, mops etc
If it's got a wooden handle and is at my place, it has had a coat of it. :wink:
DougQuote:
Originally Posted by doug3030
A bit of further clarification if you wouldn't mind.
After allowing it to soak in over night what is left to wipe up and return to the jar?
Also is the application done with a brush or some other method?
Thanks
This only happens on large flat surfaces like the benchtop. Usually there is not too much once you get a feel for how much to put on. The message in the statement is really that if you put too much on it doesn't go to waste - if you really go overboard you can just put it back in the jar. Generally I find that any small excess on the benchtop, where it can pool, can be spread to other parts of the bench or wipe the cloth over some tool handles until it is used up..Quote:
Originally Posted by Huon pine fan
Whatever you use to apply it, don't plan on using it again. It fairly ruins paint brushes and cloths, which is what I generally apply it with. $2 shop paint brushes work ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huon pine fan
Hey Quinny01,
I just finished a small roubo workbench (I'll post the build on here, so do keep an eye out) and basically finished the work surface with Livos Universal Oil (Danish Oil is basically the same), whilst the base and undercarriage were given several coats of Wattyl Estapol Tung Oil floor varnish, which is bombproof. That way the work surface wont have any glue sticking to it and is really easily recoatable, whilst the base will be tough as a basketball court.
Cheers,
SiggyKC
Thanks for everyones advice - I ended up going with boiled linseed oil. Just got to work out what to do in the middle, draws cupboards etc, and probably replace the vise with a larger oneAttachment 466553