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Pouch for shears
I'm a woodworker looking for a Melbourne based leather worker? I'm looking to get a leather pouch made for a pair of Japanese high quality shears I bought a few years ago at the Melb wood show.
Any one have any interest or recommendations, preferably in North West Melb but happy to drive near by?
Thanks in advance
Kerry
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Of course you could make one yourself. That is what I did when I wanted a leather pouch. The minimum you need is...
- Leather
- Gladwrap
- 2 needles
- Sharp knife - hoby, stanley, snap off
- Pricker - a 2 pin 4mm for a start or really splash out and get a 4 pin as well
- Dividers
- Contact cement
That will get you on your way and with just those tools you can make a really nice pouch. If you visit your local leather supplies shop they can get you on your way with some leather scraps and a couple of tools. Before you do look up some videos on youtube to find out how to
- Mould leather
- Saddle stitch
I started by making a pouch like this then got hooked. Always a danger. :)
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Yanis
You've convinced me to have a go. Mainly because I've discovered the biggest leather supplier in Melb is not too far from me here. You tube here I come.....again.
Thanks for taking the time to reply I'll send you a finished pic, assuming I get that far. I will
Cheers Kerry
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Hi Yanis well I made the shears a pouch and now I've made two more pouches for my wooden plane blades. I'll take some photos and add them. I also made a leather pony. Waiting for an awl to be delivered and then I'll be set. It was good fun and not as hard as I imagined. Mind you it all looks like someone learning. Thanks for the encouragement to try it.
Cheers, Kerry
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I just saw this. I'd gladly make you a pouch but you already seem to have all the skills, well done :)
I assume you went to leffler's? As much as I love going there (pre Covid), they're just too expensive. Let me know if you need alternative online suppliers.
What do you need an awl for? Looks like you bought stitching chisels, the kind that is made for going right through both layers of leather. The awl is used for working with pricking irons, which only make a mark and then you open the hole with the awl, which is the traditional way of doing it.
Looks like you also need some edge bevellers and some tokonole :)
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I use a Stanley awl for marking out the leather from my templates (patterns). For cut lines, center lines fold lines etc. I found that the more I got into it the more tools I "needed". My last delivery was a HSS skiving knife and one of those roller type edge painters is in the post.
It looks like you are well on your way now. I made a similar pouch for my scrapers.
Attachment 476962
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Nice work Larkan. That needle looks a bit large. Is it the ones with the large eye? If it is get yourself some No.2 harness needles. World of difference for hand stitching.
Attachment 477033Attachment 477032
I made this wallet for my Stanley No. 46 blades.
And this is my attempt at a scissors case
Attachment 477035Attachment 477034
Bit smaller than yours
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Oh they are nice. Yes the needles proved difficult to thread through on occasions. I've much to learn. Those were the ones given me at Leffler's so I just went with them but will kit up with a packet of the others too.
Thanks for sharing.
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Here's the difference in needles.
No.2 Harness needle on the left, standard leather stitching needle on the right.
Attachment 477048
You need to ask for a John James No.2, or size 2. Not the 2/0 that is bigger. Needles are made to different sizing systems depending on where they are made. The JJ harness needles sizes 1, 2 and 3 are actually identical in size but are sold under the different numbers depending on where they are sold.
25 Saddlers Harness needles in paper envelope.
Size 1 54mm length x 1.02mm diameter
Size 2 54mm length x 1.02mm diameter
Size 3 54mm length x 1.02mm diameter
Size 4 48mm length x 0.86mm diameter
Size 18 (1/0) 57.5mm length x 1.09mm diameter
Size 17 (2/0) 59.5mm length x 1.42mm diameter
Size 16 (3/0) 61.5mm length x 1.63mm diameter
And if you think that's confusing, wait till you try to buy machine needles. Thread is also made under different sizing conventions and systems and I often have to refer to an equivalence cross reference table to get the right one.
Look for a braided thread rather than a twisted one. Much nicer to work with and gives a better finish.
If anyone wants to learn to saddle stitch I can recommend Nigel Armitage on Youtube. Very talented leather worker.
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Nah, needles are not confusing, you just buy them all and make up your mind after. They're cheap as chips.
leather on the other hand...
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These all look brilliant!
Has anyone had issues with rust from having steel inside leather pouches?
I have a lot of chisel rolls that seem to be ok. I use oil or wax on the tools as well.
I'm in need of more chisel rolls and I'm wondering if I should make them with leather or perhaps canvas.
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I haven't had a problem with rust and I have a large leather tool roll with around 20 chisels in. It is quite dry where I live though and I don't have a problem with rust on any surface tbh.
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Not sure why but the leather appears to provide protection. I think it is probably the oils in the leather plus whatever you use to condition the leather.
I don't know but I suspect so long as the leather itself is protected whatever is inside it should be somewhat protected.
I have made leather holders for my block planes, carving tools, and scrapers and also have a leather roll that I bought before I started leatherworking from Carbatec and they are all rust free.
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Thanks! Some sources say that chrome tanned leather is more risky as the remnant salts from the tanning process may create an acidic environment.
Others say that leather is good at holding moisture. From that, I interpret that if the storage location is relatively dry, the tools inside should be fine. However if the tool roll/holder is stored somewhere where it may absorb humidity or condensation, that could be an issue.
I have made a few leather tool holders.
I made a chrome tanned leather 'shoe' (If I can find a photo, I'll post it as the name will make more sense) for a Veritas Low Angle Block Plane. It got a bit of rust on it the first time I stored it.
I had the same thing happen to my Low Angle Jack many years ago while it was stored in the regulation plane sock.
The rust was incredibly light and quickly came off with fine sandpaper and buffing. My interpretation for those events is that the planes are very finely ground and needed a while to develop 'patina' that naturally protects the against light corrosion. I believe also that in both situations I failed to adequately wipe off oily (and I think acidic) fingerprints and apply a light coat of oil or wax before storing (which I usually do).
I tent to much prefer using wax (or at least a wax/oil mix) these days as if the surface is oily, dust will stick to the tool, including fibres falling off new leather as a tool roll gets worked in. If there is any moisture present, the dust can wick the moisture to the steel.
I have heard that vegetable tanned leather should be much better for tool storage. Quality leather tool rolls and holders should be made of this anyway so most people probably don't even think about it.
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I coat my tools with a smear of Ballistol before storing them. It is brilliant for rust prevention and also fine on leather. It can actually dissolve rust. It is also quite safe to use. Bunnings stock it. I decant a small amount into a small 50mm plastic bottle and store it with a rag so simply wipe it over any tools I use. The stuff is brilliant.