Challenge 2020 - 2021 WoodPixel

Well.

I'm in.

What an amazing timing. I was only just admiring and saving a bunch of plane pictures from the Olden Days, Brian Shugarue and Karl Holtey... plus of course our own collection of unbeatable top-end world-renowned ultra-skilled craftsmen.... who, I'm sad to say, very well may loose against me.

Two days in and I'm also ready to reveal my cunning plan.

Being an IT and tech-dude, I suspect my offering may be more akin to a digital masterpiece or gear driven watch.... but I'm really looking forward to the challenge.

Now to work out how to accurately cut steel with just hand tools!!! :doh::doh::doh:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by woodPixel

Well.

I'm in.

What an amazing timing. I was only just admiring and saving a bunch of plane pictures from the Olden Days, Brian Shugarue and Karl Holtey... plus of course our own collection of unbeatable top-end world-renowned ultra-skilled craftsmen.... who, I'm sad to say, very well may loose against me.

Two days in and I'm also ready to reveal my cunning plan.

Being an IT and tech-dude, I suspect my offering may be more akin to a digital masterpiece or gear driven watch.... but I'm really looking forward to the challenge.

Now to work out how to accurately cut steel with just hand tools!!! :doh::doh::doh:

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Cut steel with hand tools, it is really not that hard,just think hard wood!.
My Mitre Plane was only made with a Hacksaw and files!


Cheers Matt

Welcome aboard the battle plane .... :)

A gear driven plane... that sounds interesting :-)

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

2 false starts and I think Im almost there....

These are my raggedy and disjointed thoughts :) ...

-- Shoulder plane, 19mm 3/4"
-- HNT Gordon style
-- Brass sides (a skirt only) and base
-- infill made with some of the lace sheoak acquired from DustEater in Yallingup WA (it is my pprreessiioouusssss)
-- A careful use of veneers to create an inlay (inspired by luthiers edge banding)
-- A blade made of a chisel


I make a little Kumiko (well, I TRY to make it) and the method of ensuring all the slats are perfect is a little jig.

I'm thinking that a similar jig on a chisel that's not parallel/flat/tapered would be one way of doing a "surface grinder" (!!!)

WP

Some good news and some bad news: I have a suitable candidate for the chisel:

Attachment 481025

but it a 1" chisel by Tyzac:

Attachment 481026

The other bad news is that it is tapered. That's an awful lot of metal to remove with a belt sander and no cooling:

Attachment 481027Attachment 481028

However, you will note in the first pic that the overall length is about 8".

As you can see an HNT Gordon shoulder plane has a shorter blade that is in fact 3 3/4" long

Attachment 481029 Attachment 481036

If you fancy making a 1" shoulder plane, once the blade is shortened and the tang cut to shape there would not be so much work involved in removing the taper. You would have to keep a careful eye on the metal temp: Wet it down with a rag frequently. Actually most of the grinding would take place at the furthest point from the cutting edge so maybe not as much of a problem. The 'fat" part of the HNT is quite short. I didn't measure it but probably 1" .

I could probably cut out the shoulder blade shape if you don't have the equipment for that (I only use an angle grinder with a thin cutting disc)

Some dimensions of the HNT Gordon planes for information. The blades of the 3/4" and the 1" are the same length at 3 3/4".

3/4" - 7" long, 2 3/8" deep
1" - 7 3/4" long, 2 3/8" deep.

Although the blade would come for nothing, nothing is really for nothing as there would be more work involved than a bought or salvaged shoulder plane blade. If it suits, you are welcome to it. It cleans up OK too. This was 20 to thirty seconds on a fibre wheel just down one side in the first pic and part of the back in the second.;

Attachment 481037Attachment 481038

Regards
Paul

A tapered blade isn’t a problem if you look at it the right way.... turn it around and grind the sharp bit on the other end!

I think every single-ironed woodie I’ve ever seen had a tapered blade.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

A tapered blade isn’t a problem if you look at it the right way.... turn it around and grind the sharp bit on the other end!

I think every single-ironed woodie I’ve ever seen had a tapered blade.

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I was thinking the same as I read Paul's post.

However, sometimes only the tip is hardened on chisels to leave the rest of the blade less brittle. If that is the case then it would need heat treating once it is reground.

I believe that Terry Gordon's rebate planes do not have a tapered iron. reason being they are not held in with a wedge in the traditional manner, that is the wedge locks against a single point of contact, not the length of the breast.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by doug3030

However, sometimes only the tip is hardened on chisels to leave the rest of the blade less brittle. If that is the case then it would need heat treating once it is reground.

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Doug

I think you are on the money there. The tang itself is definitely in the annealed state. Quite how far up the blade the hardening is taken I don't know. Just out of interest I might try the file test when I get a moment. Also a lot depends on the style of holding the wedge etc.

Regards
Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

A tapered blade isn’t a problem if you look at it the right way.... turn it around and grind the sharp bit on the other end!

I think every single-ironed woodie I’ve ever seen had a tapered blade.

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:2tsup: Exactly what I would have suggested.

Just make sure that the other end is hard. It is likely to be soft and needing to be heat-treated.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Nice!

So many excellent bits of wisdom.

I've a Burnzomatic, access to make a coffee-can furnace, a few fire bricks and the kitchen oven. I've scabbed up an angle grinder and devised a jig for shaping the blade.

This is beginning to feel doable 😁😁😁😁

I'm off air for two days, but wish to thank everyone for their help and ideas.

I follow a dude on Instagram from Japan.... instagram.com/tokunagafurniture/

He has made a video on how he makes all his mini-kanna - How to make kanna カンナの作り方〜小鉋編〜

Interesting!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPstt1uGhgE

Drove to Sydney and back this week - TWICE!

Lot of hours and a lot of kilometres to fill up, so I talked for 15 straight hours about woodwork!!!! :D

My family has heard AAALLLL about this challenge and it gave me a few ideas on how I can do something both different and useful.

Ive been interested in coopering for a while. Making "mini-barrels", vessels, pots and cups, all held together with wire hoops. Getting the insides and outsides curved smoothly and beautifully cannot be done with anything Off The Shelf.... so down I delve into this rabbit hole for a bit....

ideas... ideas....

Attachment 481336

to make....

Attachment 481337Attachment 481338Attachment 481339Attachment 481340

That is some purty nice woodworking for sure. For me, having to join any wood pieces at other than 90 deg., is near impossible, so this stuff is truly amazing!

This great Woodpixel - thinking outside the square. I am looking forward to the development of some of these "different" ideas. It adds an extra dimension to the challenge.

Cheers
Bob

This coopering is dead DEAD easy. It LOOKS really hard and incredibly delicate with the finest parts.. fiddly making...

BUT heres a secret!....

It isn't! One can literally use firewood. The pieces are split off the log using a "froe", cut roughly to length, each pieces are sides cleaned up with a plane, then glued into a round and using string to hold it in place while it dries.

Then the inside and outsides are shaped with the various custom make kanna (planes) in the picture above (these are not mine!). One works like a stone mason making a statue.... the bits that arent a "'barrel" are planed off.

The bottom and lips are trickier.

But I need a source for metal hoops. Thats proved challenging. There are many cheap ones for Dream Catchers (by the gods I hate those things) but their ends are induction welded and finish is terrible.

....

I thought/felt I was at the final decision stage, but this has given me a different thought. I felt rather than make one super-dooper plane, that Id document the process of making a series of odd utility-scale planes. Something the average grunt can make without super-dooper machinery or elite skills. A practical and pleasing set of objects fit to a task.

....

Hmmmm..... which direction.....