trailer size / wheels

looking at upgrading to a larger trailer ebaying etc for prices

ok real dumd questions but when i look at trailer adds for 8 x 5 trailer and then go metric i find its 2440mm right ?

what i want to know is if a sheet of standard wood panel ( ply laminate whatever ) will fit inside the trailer as i think they are nearly always 2440 long other words is the size of trailer inside measurement or not and also would this make it tight to fit for the panels do i need to go larger

on my very old backyard 6 x 4 when tail gate down its actually 6 but shut tailgate and its a 1in shorter so 6 ft panels wont lay in bottom of trailer and have to be lent up on tailgate to carry

also what are the pros and cons of dual wheel verses single wheel ?

any help would be appreaciated ths david

Trailers are made one off and to individual designes, so you can't be sure it'll be too small, but in my experience most 8x4 trailers are a tad small for a ply sheet laying flat.

Dual axles split the load between them so all else being equal can handle heavier loads, but also all else being equal they will ride hards. Dual axles are better on big trailers because the silouette in cross winds causes them to self steer and teh dual axles help resist that, but on the other hand they drag the tyres on corners so they aren't ideal for lighter smaller trailers. They also cost more obviously, more bits more tyres to wear out.

I've got a 4.2 X 2.1 meter flat bed trailer legal to 750 kg and single axle braked. Towes well with a load but it has no silouette or frontal area. It used to be a caravan and the single axle was lethal, even behind a 100 series landcruiser. So IMO if your going much over 750 kg or you've got a big area on your load go dual axle, if the trailer is low profile and/or light go a single.

Get the biggest you can afford. You can half fill a biggie but if it's too small it's too small and you'll be annoyed :)

or do as I used to and rent them as you need them.

I have no idea about your size questions. I can say though that I have once used a dual axle trailer, and it was an absolute pig to manoeuvre by hand. You can't pick it up and spin it like a single axle trailer. Had to back and fill. As the wheels aren't steerable, the thing wants to only go in a straight line. If you are going to be able to take it off the car and leave it there's no problem, but if you will need to shift it yourself it's bloody hard.

Peter

Surely 8x5 will carry a 2440mm sheet with the tailgate down. Might just overhang a tad but are you always going to be carrying that size panel?
If you go any bigger than 8x5 I would suggest you go for tandem, will tow better but definitely scrub tyres out quicker than single axle.

Agree with Munruben.
Sheets are not made to fit trailers. But you can make a trailer to take a certain size sheet.

Problem with odd sized trailers is cost. Manufacturers of trailers have their sizing and costs all sorted out nicely so that there is little waste.

Queensland Dept Of transport has a booklet on trailer making. You might want to get that and see what to do about axle location, legal weights, brakes, towbar length etc.

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Originally Posted by artme

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Problem with odd sized trailers is cost. Manufacturers of trailers have their sizing and costs all sorted out nicely so that there is little waste.

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The irony here is that standard size sheets and lengths of other materials may be components of the trailer itself, without allowance for lifting slings and such accessories. Wise manufacturers will recognize this need, and sell more trailers. Some day in the distant future.

Nominal sizes are just that. Usually an inch or so smaller than needed. BTDT.

Cheers,
Joe

Went thru the phase of a lite duty 6 x 4 and found because I was carrying long lengths of material (up to 6 mtr) it just wasnt working for me. Not to mention when carrying sheet goods. Cutting long lengths down wore a bit thin I must admit. Not to mention the rocking effect I was getting when driving along.

Found that my lite duty 10 x 5 is okay (as far as tandems go) to manouver around. The spare tyre placed on the draw bar provides a bit of counter balance and seems to take a bit of weight off the rear wheels when moving it around the yard.

I recon one universal truth about trailers is buy a decent jocky wheel for it. Go for one with a reasonable sized tyre if possible. You will thank yourself every time u have to push the damn thing around the yard, especially if its a heavy sod or loaded up.

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Originally Posted by dzcook

ok real dumd questions but when i look at trailer adds for 8 x 5 trailer and then go metric i find its 2440mm right ?

what i want to know is if a sheet of standard wood panel ( ply laminate whatever ) will fit inside the trailer as i think they are nearly always 2440 long other words is the size of trailer inside measurement or not and also would this make it tight to fit for the panels do i need to go larger

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I found out (from the distributors) that australia built ply comes in 2400x1200 sheets, import ply is 2440x1220.

Whatever size trailer you get, there will always be the occasion where it is not big enough, just lay planks of wood across the top to carry larger sheets. I found of greater annnoyance the space that large trailers occupy. Not an issue if you have a big block of course.

hint, when moving dual axle trailers by hand, remove the jockey wheel, push down on the A frame so as only the two front wheels are on the ground, can then steer them easily as it becomes a single axle.

ok thanks to all for the info has been a help and think i will just go for the 8 x 6 trailer and see what i can get re the wheels arrangment 2 or 4 for the money

Hope you found the trailer you're after David. If you have already, then this is for others to benefit too.

The problem with trailers is there's no set standard as far as sizing goes. It's up to the manufacturer to determine whether they make an imperial 8 X 5 at 2438.4mm x 1524mm, or a metric 8 X 5 at 2440mm x 1525mm, or even a dodgy 8 X 5 at 2400 x 1500. Then you have the issue with how the tailgate's are setup. If they're attached flush with the front and rear of the cross rails, then the internal dimensions of the trailer will be what your chassis is, but I've seen some setup that the tailgates close so they tuck inside the uprights, and this then reduces your internal length.

Another thing to consider is the way the sides are attached. Let's say an 8 x 4 chassis is made to exactly 1220mm wide, thinking you had zero clearance for an 8x4 sheet. The side sheet metal is then attached to the uprights, and the chassis, flush with the outside of the chassis so the guards can be fitted flush with both of these. With your sheet metal being at least 1.6mm thick, you internal width is now down to 1216.8mm wide. Too narrow for a timber sheet at 1220mm.

Also, a 6 foot wide trailer is substantially wider than most towing vehicles, and you have to be quite aware so you don't hit things with it such as gutters and roundabouts. A 5 foot trailer is much better as they're only about four to six inches per side wider.

So, unless you're making it yourself, or having a custom one built (as I am currently doing for a customer), then take your tape measure trailer shopping.

Y.

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Also, a 6 foot wide trailer is substantially wider than most towing vehicles, and you have to be quite aware so you don't hit things with it such as gutters and roundabouts. A 5 foot trailer is much better as they're only about four to six inches per side wider.

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Yep gotta go along with that one. If the Falcon ute fits thru a gap (mirror to mirror) then then my 5 foot will too. The cut in on the wheels isnt too bad around corners. Figure unless u wanna cart cars around then a 6 is too wide for most users.

Monolithic tailgate hinge pins are usually made in identical lengths, so that it takes two people to properly engage. To facilitate one-man use, grind about 1/8" (~3mm) off one of them. Place the longer one in its barrel for support, then swing the other one into position and drive the entire gate home. Your choice as to which one is longer; it works either way.

Cheers,
Joe

Had a custom built 10' x 5'6" (700kg empty) which was an OK width, bit wider than the car but not to much. Currently the garden 6' x 4' is a bit narrow and short, but its always a toss up between what you use it for. For heavier loads the tandem is hard to beat, more stable and less likely to come to grief, however with any trailer once they start to sway you still need an ounce of luck no matter how skilled you think you might be.

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Originally Posted by johnc

Had a custom built 10' x 5'6" (700kg empty) which was an OK width, bit wider than the car but not to much.

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That's a perfect size for making a trailer with minimal waste as you can fold one 8x5 sheet into a 5' floor, two 1' sides, two 2" tops and two 1" returns. Two of these with a weld across the centre, and you have your box tub, with no cuts!

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Originally Posted by johnc

...however with any trailer once they start to sway you still need an ounce of luck no matter how skilled you think you might be.

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That's where Electric brakes come into their own. A light application of the over-ride mechanism on your controller, and you'll pull the trailer back into line.

However, if a trailer is built correctly, and loaded correctly, it won't sway, period! But we all make mistakes (been there... learnt alot that day:doh: let's just say; hire car trailer, car on backwards, borrowed tow vehicle, down hill, red light intersection... not fun).