First Bench - Cheap but sturdy workbench for beginner

Hi everyone out there,

Ive been into woodworking since i was young, but mainly in the cabinet making side of things like kitchens etc. Ive never really done any furnature building or traditional joining or practices.

My old workbench built of 2x4's scavenged form a building site with a chipboard top just doesnt do it anymore. Its ok to store stuff, but ive been trying to get into box building etc and as soon as i try to plane on it she just racks really bad.

Im looking to build a nice solid bench for my shed, multi purpose really. Needs to be flat, strong, have storage underneath for tools and also hold my drill press and bench grinder when needed (would like to store these underneath when not in use and use a quick mounting system to fix them to the deck)

I have some questions about how to do this all

My main problem is cost and tools for me, I dont have much of either. I plan on using some Pine for the base and have found some stuff that i think will do on ebay of all places, its basic construction grade stuff that looks pretty crappy.

Posts: 100 x 100 Pine posts - used for verandah's and the like
Bottom cross beams: 200 x 75 Pine sleepers
Top cross beams: 100 x 75 Pine sleepers (these will be a little shy of 100mm, as they will actually be the 200mm sleepers ripped down the guts unless i can find actual 100 x 75 or similar)

The cost's:
$5.50 per post
$18.50 per 200mm beam for 3m length

so thats around $100 for 4 posts and enough timber for the rails to make the bench about 3m long. With the bench being this long and using 200x75 and 100x75, will I need to add another 2 posts at the center of the bench for strength or do you think that 4 will be ok?

I want to use traditional hand cut mortace and tenon's and all of the joins. The sides of the base which will only be around 600mm wide will be ok in one piece and can be glued, clamped and then cross doweled, but the longer pieces i would like to have them removable.

Is my best bet to use full through tenons and then cut another mortace (on the tenon) and pin it with a wedge or to use a standard hidden mortce and tenon and use 2 x large batton screws or similar to hold them in?

Given the idea behind this setup and the joins are cut to mate nicely, could i expect much racking at all? And what would you guys recommend for a hard, sold, flat top for this bench. Remembering the cost, I have around $200-300 to spend on the top alone.

1 last question, Is there anyone who knows of a service in VIC that would be able to dress all this pine in a thicknesser planer to get it looking pretty and then it wont look like general scrapyard type stuff. I would like to varnish the whole lot and get a decent finish if possible.

Thanks
John

Hi John,
I'm about to embark on the same mission and build my first real workbench.

I'm getting my timber (kiln dried and dressed) from Australian Treated Pine in Campbelfield. Their prices are pretty reasonable and they're always really helpful.
Australian Treated Pine, Australia - quality treated pine and timber products

I reckon 70 x 35mm should be thick enough for the cross beams / rails connecting the posts together in a little housing joint, about 10 - 15mm should do it, then glue and screw, and finish off with a coach bolt for extra strength.

For the top, why not use some sheets of marine ply glued and screwed together. It's cheap and pretty tough.

Sorry I can't help about the mortise and tenon joint questions. I'm not using them for my bench.

Let me know how you go, I'm keen to see the finished product and trade some lessons learned on the way.

Cheers

Tom Casper's Workbench in a weekend might be a good place to start.

He doesn't use traditional joinery in this design though.

Check out the words of wisdon by Chris Schwarz of Woodworking Magazine. You don't have to build his designs, but you should take heed of the design priciples. See here for workbench blog articles - lots of stuff & well worth reading through it to get ideas. He also has a great book on workbenches if your budget stretches to that (or ask your local library to get it).

To quote "...your bench is simply a three-dimensional clamping surface so you shouldn’t do anything that impedes that – such as adding aprons under the top that block clamps, or a top that overhangs the front of the legs, which will prevent you from clamping long and wide work to the front with any efficacy. "

If you are short on cash, the leg vice is very inexpensive & works really well.

Most important:

1. Legs & front edge of benchtop (& front stretcher) in the same plane
2. Plenty of mass -you can not overbuild it!
3. Really rigid, flat top
4. Rigid base to avoid racking
5. Nothing underneath the top to interfere with clamping/workholding (bottom shelf is OK)
6. Minimal finish - you don't want a shiny, slippery surface.

If you have a thick top with overhang at each end , you should not need to worry about three sets of legs.

I have used some 300 x 75 oregon for my top (300 wide at the front, a 100 tool well & a 150 x 75 at the rear so no glueup needed) The timber yard had a jointer & thicknesser & dressed the timber for me.

If you want a knock-down design, you can use bench bolts for the stretchers - see here - Carbatec probably sell them, otherwise Lee Valley will ship out. You could also do something similar with 12mm bolts & flange nuts.

Having said all of above, if you only use power tools,then you probably dont need this level of construction.

Another option is the so called english bench - uses thinner material & front & rear apront to make a torsion box - see Schwarz again here

Ferrets - Ply is pretty floppy stuff, and you really want a flat surface for your bench. If you do use ply, you should consider a supporting structure underneath - see the assembly table design by Mark Spaonolo here - its an interesting video

Well its been a while since I posted this thread up about a workbench, It is getting closer now :)

I have come to the conclusion that I just dont have the tools and experience yet to achieve the type of bench I was aiming for. I am looking to build something similar to the FineWoodworking "Rock Solid Plywood Bench" here: Rock-Solid Plywood Bench - Fine Woodworking Article

The only real changes I wish to make is add a bit thicker top with 2 x Plywood primary boards with a MDF Top, A larger Apron around the bench with one of these CarbaTec vises installed: Carba-Tec Large Front Vise : CARBA-TEC

The idea behind the apron is to allow me to clamp long pieces of work. One end in the vise and the other with a clamp.

I have the tools to complete this bench properly and it seems like a good project to work on. What is everyones thoughts on this bench?

The article also mentions dog holes into the top if required, would dog holes through plywood and MDF work correctly? Or would I need to replace the top layer from wear?

John

Hi there,

Here is a set of free plans for a woodworking workbench that I built using only 19mm pine. Made the legs by laminating 3 pieces of 19x65, and the stretchers by gluing 2 pieces of 19x90 together.

The worktop is made from a sheet of 18mm MDF cut into three and glued together with contact glue.

It may not be the traditional woodworkers workbench, but hey, it's cheap and so far, the most solid workbench I've ever made.

The stretchers are joined using mortice & tenon joints and bolted to reduce racking.

Now I had a small problem mounting the vice. Should anyone studying the plans kindly make a suggestion as to how to overcome this, it woulf be much appreciated.

Cheers, Tony

Looking good so far. Not a ding in it. :U

Looks solid and if it starts to move you can always add more support.

John,

Pine posts are a false economy. The legs of the bench support the weight of the top, and transfer all the racking forces into all structural joints... a soft wood 'taint the best option here.

For example: If you fit the legs/posts into mortice's, then the racking is concentrated on the tenon,, and in particular at the end of the tenon.... put that tenon into concrete, cut the leg to length (1000mm ?) and start pushing on it, how many times will you need to push it till it breaks?

Its a bit gratuitous, but take a look here https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/b...-build-116872/

Name says it all... Big, Solid, Cheap, no tools to build it with (well, minimal tools), no bench to build it on.

Because big solid posts are expensive, I glued up hardwood floorboards (Bunnings special shorts) to make 60x60mm legs.

Rails are a mix of cheap F5 pine (2.4m x 90x45mm for under $4 each at Bunnings) and cheap secondhand/reclaimed hardwood.

Any way, take a look at the thread. Its the tight wallet way to pull 300kg's+ into a bench, and to make it very, very solid, and all the materials were brought home in a Camry station wagon.

It looks sexy as well... at least when its covered with shavings and I'm standing beside it. :D :D :D

Big caveats though ~
~ Use epoxy glue so you don't need heaps of clamps to apply the pressure that polyU glues need.
~ Wide timber in a rail = an L brace (negates the need for a diagonal or panel for bracing).

Have fun and ask questions here... there will be a very wide range of opinions (coming from the cheap 'council clean up old door on council clean up bedside cupboards through to the alaGroggyesque reinforce the concrete slab to support the bench type :cool: (which I don't like 'cause I'd need to hire a truck, a few good men, and a couple of pallet jacks to steal. :no: Care to let me know when your bench is fitted with a motor, drive chain and wheels, and when you intend to take the family out for the day Groggy? :D )