Label casting

This is how I do it. It may or may not work for you
1: After you work out what type of pen you want to use you have to work out the diameter of the tube.
2: Work out what you want to put on your label. You can use MS Word. If you have a pic that you want to use MS Word 2010 can resize it for you or use paint. I have had luck with labels from www.decalpaper.com.au (vinyl and water decals) they will send you a sample pack if you ask.
3: Print your label and cut it out. Cut the label longer then the tube by about 1mm each end. I use a template but you can use scissors. If you are going to have an overlap use a felt pen as close to the colour as the label on the edge to hide the white of the label.
4: Roll your tube onto the label, rum your fingers over the label to make sure it has stuck. Then fold the edges over into the tube.
5: If you have a pressure pot set it up now. (You don’t need one as the last few I have done I didn’t use one)
6: Place the tube into a mould with the joint facing up. (Less chance of an air bubble) Have a good look and make sure it is a good fit.
7: Mix your resin the way that works for you.
8: Poor resin into the mould. I poor onto the tube to cover it first.
9: Put into your pressure pot. If you are not using a pot put the mould onto a drill press so that the vibration of the press will help remove air bubbles.
10: Let it cure, turn, polish and put together.
Once again this is how I do it and it works for me. I hope this helps if you have a better way of doing something please tell us.
David

Hey, David .. nice write up! I just saw this now, not sure how I missed it before.

Only a couple of points I can add, as you covered things pretty well already.
1. if you warm up the resin, any air bubbles can rise to the top easier. You can
warm it up by putting a jar of resin in a pan of hot tap water. You want to get it
warm enough that it gets thin, no need to go much more than that.

2. I also find that when pouring the resin, I put a popsicle stick across the rim of
the cup/jar and let the resin flow down the stick to wherever I'm pouring. It just
eliminates one more place where air could get into the mix. I usually touch the
stick to either the tube or to the center of the mold.

3. Depending on the type of paper you use, some can trap air more than others. So
you start out with what looks like a great casting, only to find that while it cures,
air leeches out of the paper and into the resin, ruining your cast. A coating of
glue, resin or even lacquer can help.. but make sure you give it a day or two to
off-gas before pouring. Some people paint the tubes with resin.

4. Inkjet labels should dry for a good day or more before casting. Inks contain lots
of water, which WILL react with the resin, especially polyurethane resins.

5. Don't try to turn too soon. Resins can get firm to the touch and hard enough to
de-mold fairly quickly, but that doesn't mean they're ready yet. I know some people
turn 3 or 4 hours after pouring (and with colored resin you can get away with that)
but if you're doing something clear it might not work. The resin can still be soft
(relatively soft..) inside and when the lathe is driving the resin at high RPM's and
your cutting tools are "putting the brakes on" .. the torque can cause the resin to
lift away from the label slightly .. giving you air gaps. Looks like the silver shimmer.


Nice pic of doing the edge BEFORE applying the label! For some dumb reason, I
usually put the label on and then try to hide the seam. I make extra labels for when
my pen goes where I didn't plan for it to go .. :-

Some good points there NL. I have tried many labels and now that I have found one that works well, I get a phone call to say that they don't sell it any more so now I have to wait until the new brand comes in next year. It is a bit of a pain as I have some pen to make.
David