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Hello
When does a chisel collection get over the top?
I am trying to sort the keeper from the sellers
I am thinking that that I should I have 2 sets of bevel edged 25 degree and 30 degree?
and 1 full set of Firmers and mortice chisels
With the 6mm and other double ups i was thinking about skew chisel conversions
How to I tell apart the bigger Firmer chisels from Mortice chisels
Photos to follow
Photos
Photo 1 The collection
Photo 2 Various Mortice chisels including 2 pig stickers all good English steel
Photo 3 Set 1 Titan x 1 Marples and Anton Bergs and 1 x Sadvik
Photo 4 Set 2 Mostly Marples 1x misc ward Cast steel
Photo 5 the big blue handle marples will go into one of the sets and any double ups made into skews?
Photo 6 Current Users may go into the boys tools when the get a bit older
Photo set 2
Photo 1 Shorties or butt chisels set mostly Stanley 1 red handled titan that need straightening How?
Photo 2 1st firmer chisel to the left is a socket titan rest are old English types
Photo 3 more Firmers cont
Photos 4 and 5 are some of these Mortice considering the 10mm thickness?
Photos 3
Photo 1 Discards 3 matching ones are easter European ? Czechoslovakia
Photo 2 and 3 show a Beveled edge chisel that's about 8mm thick really chunky that unfortunately has a bit of pitting on the back that would require alot of lapping to get out and flatten any suggestion to speed up the process ie belt sanders or the like?
Re your last post, unless you're a masochist and it's essential to your work, give it the flick in my view.
If you must have it, my two bob's worth would be to get a #120 ceramic stone - Sigma or Shapton, along with the float glass and coarse SiC grains to flatten it once it's dished.
Or more cheaply, an MDF disc mounted in a drill press with high quality alox abrasive sheet glued to it.
Belt sanders for this have probs: the abrasive is cloth backed, the plattens have a graphite coated sheet. You'll round over the edges and corners before you can say fcuk.
OK, if you're then prepared to flatten with whatever benchstone you have, it's your time.
There's a well worn saying I heard that rang true with me, and I continually refer back to it to cull unnecessary items from my limited space.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors
"It's better to have a handful decent tools than a shed full of junkers"
I'd say if you use it, or will use it in the next 6 months, keep it. If not, stick it on eBay and use the cash towards other more useful things.
That said, I do have about 15 hammers. My excuse is that they all perform different functions, and I think you could probably argue along those lines too for keeping a fair chunk of that collection.
Oh and with firmer vs mortice, I think it's a question of the thickness to width ratio. Hopefully someone more experienced then me can confirm as I'm curious as well and google seems to be full of conflicting views!
PLEASE don't take to any chisels you might want to on-sell (or any chisel you want to work properly) with a belt sander! There is no way you can get a piece of metal flat from edge to edge with a flexible-surfaced abrasive, and that goes for sandpaper stuck to saw bench tops or anything resembling that silly 'scary-sharp' rubbish!!Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors
(Rant off :B)
Sorry, KWOD, but the suggestion of belt sanders did it - I have several lovely old chisels I'm working on at the moment that some clown has taken to with a belt sander or the like, and each one is giving me a severe case of RSI to get it flat again. I bought the coarsest diamond plate I could get at the recent Carbatec sale, and that is helping a lot. However, I discovered that even the diamond plate can cause a bit of edge duffing if I let the swarf build up too much. It really tears the metal off, but when I moved to the 'medium' plate with the first chisel when I thought I had it nicely flat, I soon found that I had rocked it (end to end) ever so slightly, and that the outer edges were slightly more worn, so I was much more careful with the next one. Rsser has an "80-20 rule" - 80% of the effort goes into flattening that last 20%, but I reckon he's wrong - it's more like 99% of the effort to get that last 1%! :U
Diamond plates are the quickest & most reliable way I know to flatten a chisel or plane blade manually. The only 'safe' way of doing it by machine would involve some fancy machinery and some very careful setups - the cost would be considerable, I imagine. But you can't beat a truly flat, polished back on a chisel, so it's RSI & boredome, for me.... :C
Cheers,
You could always have a look at mic-d posts on scraping planes, might be quicker to buy a carbide bit scraper, or make one from an old file... Pretty small surface to try scraping on though. Good luck.
I was not really considering a belt sander :U
I think you're right, you've got far too many. Send the rejects to me! :wink:
You do have quite a lot. Start by cleaning one and go from there. Does take some time but you get there in the end.
I have succesfully flattened planeblade with worse pitting than yours on a wetgrinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors
It's a bit risky, but fast.
What I did was to balance the mirror side on top of the wheel, moving it forth and back for like 20-30 seconds (be very careful not to get it to close to the edge, as it will round easily). Then I took it to my 80 grit coarse stone to check if I had gone too deep at some places. If I had, I knew where to correct it on the wetwheel, and then back to check on the coarse stone. I did that till the pitting was gone. The trick is in the balancing act. The better you do it, the longer you can keep it on the wheel, and the less work there is on the coarse stone. It's easy when you get the hang of it, and the pitting is gone in no time.
I must admit though, that my second attempt went better than my first. :doh:
Practice on a cheap piece and not on an old E. A. Berg. Just my advice.