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G'day
I decided I should learn how to make pens so's I can give a gift to people who give me timber .
I am going OK but I find that sometimes the glue goes off before I have the brass tube pushed all the way into the blank .I have used CA glue from the Dollar shop and yellow lable "hot stuff" CA .The last couple I made, I used 5 minute epoxy, which worked OK but is a bit slower to use.
I know penmakers commonly use CA ,but which one?
Ted
Hi Ted, I have used medium CA before for gluing up brass tubes into blanks but I'm not a big fan of it. I use an accelerator as well with the medium but it still takes a few minutes for me.
What I use now is Polyurethane glue. It takes a lot longer but I do my turning on the weekend so during the week, I'll drill out the blanks for the wekend and on Friday night, while watching the footy, I'll glue all the tubes in with poly and set them to cure overnight. Then first thing Saturday morning, I square off the blanks and get turning.
I'm not sure what viscocity the yellow labe "Hot Stuff" is but if it's going off before you get the tube in, I'd say it's thin. The $2 shop glue is definately thin and as you are finding, it will go off very quickly. I use thin CA for finishing or stabilising a blank that looks like it wants to explode. Try the medium if you still want to glue your brass tubes in with CA, it should give you enough time to get the tube in before setting.
Cheers
Paul
Gidday Ted
Welcome to the nightmare of pen turning:) The problem you are having is common and everyone can hav it at some stage. In my opinion (mine only) when you drill the hole in the blank you are making it as tight a fit as you can so put some CA inside the hole in blank and also on the tube and insert it with a twisting motion. Because there is little or no gap for the glue to dry this could take longer than you think. I sugest that you use some sort of CA accelerator to speed up the drying process and my idea would be Mitre fix from 043turning it should do the job.
Cheers Ian
Hey Ted,
I have done a few pens now, and like everyone else I've tried to get them ready quicker:rolleyes:, a word of warning, if you have a special blank, or one that is a bit iffy glue it with High Strength Araldite, and you'll just have to learn to wait. I have had quite a few really good blanks just go to Heaven because I wanted them NOW, so now I only use superglue for Finishing and stabilization.
Just my thoughts
HazzaB
Ted,
Welcome to the addiction first. When a blank is drilled, the hole is generally a bit larger than the tube size. Some larger tubes can be tight. This is what I do and is not gospel. After I drill the hole, I line the hole with thin CA and let it dry, I then ream the hole out with the drill size for the tube. Drilling creates heat and therefore I believe you would get fine heat checks inside the blank. The thin CA will wick into any fine cracks. I then rough up the brass tubes with 80 grit sand paper.
The next question is what type of glue to use, CA, 5 minute epoxy, Gorilla Glue. If I am in a hurry I use Thick CA. I seal the end of the tubes with potato line the hole with it, coat the tube and insert the tube with a twisting motion and then give a shot of accelerator to speed up the process.
5 minute epoxy, is good for smaller batches. The glue up process is the same again as the CA. I generally do pens in production runs, drill one day, glue the next, turn the third. So while the epoxy is drying I drill some more.
Gorilla Glue is what I use now for all my glue ups, same process as the 2 before. Gorilla Glue is made by King Chrome and I got mine from a company call The Bolt Place. I glue up over night and leave it 24 hours and then turn them.
Anyway this is what I do, hope some the info is helpful.
Cheers
Darren
Hi
Thanks for all the replys . I have now made about 6 using 5 minute epoxy with no problems and will probably stick with it. I have found the setting time is not rearly a problem if I plan ahead and factor in tea and lunch breaks .
Paulphot, yellow lable hot stuff is medium viscosity . Maybe I'm just slow .
Ted
Ted, not slow...thorough :D
the biggest problem with CA is heat and moisture accelerates the drying process. After drilling the blank the drill bit will heat the blank up, if you then apply the glue and try to insert the tube it is already starting to set. also if there is any fine sawdust left in the hole it will also add to the drying...
so after drilling i use compressed air to clear the blanks and it will also cool them, i then test fit the tube to see how much glue to use if the tubes are tight i will scuff with the 60/80grit and use no glue as i find the scuffed tubes will be even tighter.. if they slide in nicely i scuff the tube (always scuff the tube) i place a squirt of CA into the blank then using chopstick in one hand i insert it into the blank and with the other hand i roll it around to ensure total coverave of the CA inside the blank.
Next step is place a good size dob onto one end of the tube then insert with a twisting motion this keeps the glue off your fingers and keeps it from setting instantally
from here a quick spray with accelerator (here less is more - a fine mist of accelerator is all it takes to set the glue going)
happy glueing
Hey mate....I use either medium or Thick CA, depending on the timber I'm working with, and the size of the tube.
After roughing up the tube with some sandpaper, I put some CA in the blank, and run a little around the tube, twisting to get even coverage.
I Always leave it for 24 hours to cure, and dry hard.
For coating, I always use thin CA with an accelerator.
I used to use Medium with Boiled Linseed Oil, but I found thin CA much better.
Enjoy!....I'm well addicted...:;
Be aware that accelerator makes CA extra brittle. :oo: