Stropping for edge maintenance

I've finally got down to actually using all the hand tools I've been collecting, after all this time - building sawbenches.

I'm quickly becoming acutely aware of the desirability of making the edges last as long as possible - given that I'm still doing all my regrinding by hand.

I've seen a number of people advocate stropping (in my case, Veritas green with WD40 on MDF) to maintain an edge while working.

But, because my chisels aren't hollow ground (and because of my lack of experience generally) I don't think I'll be able to hone freehand without risking edge geometry. And while I can always use my beloved Veritas MK II honing guide, it's a bit too fiddly to use every three minutes while working!

What's my best option? Does anyone else use a strop to maintain the edge? How often do you strop while working, assuming that you're using that tool continuously? (Of course, I've noticed that the Narex go blunt before the old Stanley irons, which go blunt before the Titans, which go blunt before the Hock, so obviously it depends on the steel you're using)

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Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

I've finally got down to actually using all the hand tools I've been collecting, after all this time - building sawbenches.

I'm quickly becoming acutely aware of the desirability of making the edges last as long as possible - given that I'm still doing all my regrinding by hand.

I've seen a number of people advocate stropping (in my case, Veritas green with WD40 on MDF) to maintain an edge while working.

But, because my chisels aren't hollow ground (and because of my lack of experience generally) I don't think I'll be able to hone freehand without risking edge geometry. And while I can always use my beloved Veritas MK II honing guide, it's a bit too fiddly to use every three minutes while working!

What's my best option? Does anyone else use a strop to maintain the edge? How often do you strop while working, assuming that you're using that tool continuously? (Of course, I've noticed that the Narex go blunt before the old Stanley irons, which go blunt before the Titans, which go blunt before the Hock, so obviously it depends on the steel you're using)

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Yes, I'd like more info on this stropping business as I'm a learner to sharpening blades for planes and chisels, any info please. I understand some use a paste to hone their blades.:D:D

SB

I would start sharpening freehand, sure the first times you will get edge geometry, but after a while you can do it quick and successful. Besides if the chisel isn’t 100% 90 degrees it still cuts well.

I know little about this side of it but it sounds like you have honing rather than stropping in mind. And it's not that hard to take a chisel with a longish bevel and hone freehand. Just one finger pressing on the bevel cradling the handle in the other hand, rock it up and down while stopped so you feel when it registers; draw it back.

As rsser has said you probably mean "honing" or giving the blade a touch up on the oil stone to keep an edge and then after that to remove the fine burr you strop the blade with the palm/ball of you hand which becomes second nature.

rod's 2nd nature is prob best tried carefully by a newbie; burrs and corners are sharp; practice on an old shoe maybe ;-}
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I guess I am confused.

What's Derek doing here? Is this a strop, or a hone?

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...mondpaste.html.

Incidentally, this page shows Derek shaving endgrain pine after using the Veritas green on horsebutt.

Sadly, that's precisely the task I'm trying to achieve right now, without much success, although as far as I can work out, I'm using more or less the same sharpening media - King 1000, 6000 and Veritas green rouge (in my case on MDF).

I use the same combo of stones and Veritas paste on MDF for my sharpening tasks. I find if you give the back of the blade a lick on the honing compound and a quick freehand lick on the bevel you can give your blades that gentle rehone to get them cutting effectively many times before you risk doing anything to the blade that another run through the stones wont correct for you. My blades that have a 25 degree secondary I can shave with after a honing the second and third time.

The beauty is that the honing paste removes so little material that you would have to try hard to ruin a blade with it alone.

Practice makes perfect to get the best results I guess. When to rehone would be personal preference but if you can get it down to a fine art then there's no reason not to do it often.

A very well deserved thanks for snafuspyramid and the link to Derek, it was just what I was looking for to add to my knowledge and skill of sharpening.:D:D

SB

Most of my wood carving gouges have bevel angles of 20 degrees. I rarely have to use anything as crude as a 1K water stone to keep working. Chrome green honing compound on a hard strop is mostly as much as needed.

Try these things:
1. paint the bevel of the tool with a permanent felt marker = you can see exactly where the metal is coming off.
2. I lock my elbows to my sides for both push and pull sharpening strokes. I'm moving from my hips and knees. That way, I cannot lift my elbows to round off the bevel.
3. I made silly-looking wooden triangles of the various bevel angles I need. They stand beside the stone so I get my grip "correct". Of course, one look at the black marker tells all.

Now mind you, if I bust a sand grain with a gouge, I might be as far back as an 800grit oil stone to begin with.