Kea Conqueror – Plumbing
Comment, modifications, and hints.
My ex rental 2009 Kea Conqueror is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier 4WD with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel. It is the model with CF80 frig in the middle of the rear space just behind the cab.
I think earlier Conquerors had smaller frigs mounted on the side behind the driver, so this info might not be exactly applicable to yours, and also the model probably changed a little over time in other respects due to product improvement and factory repairs.
Fresh Water
My fresh water is stored in two poly tanks, one underneath the lower cabinet space, just behind the driver, and another under the rear of the vehicle.
The Kea Rental Info sheet say the tanks are about 45 litres each.
Water is added to the vehicle via a portable hose to the Fiamma entry socket, and the water is hose connected to the front tank, then gravity fed by another hose to the rear tank. It is pumped to the sink area from the bottom of the rear tank by a 12V DC Shurflo water pump with pressure sensitive valve.
We leave the pump switched off at the rear breaker panel whilst travelling.
If the rear tank is damaged and develops a leak, then you will drain both tanks. The rear tank is quite vulnerable to puncture by stones and rocks thrown up by the wheels, and by damage when driving across large rocks and earthen banks etc.
The pump output is fed to a plumbing “T” and then a filter cartridge, then to a drinking water faucet, as well as to the turn tap outlet, both located over the sink, which in turn drains waste water straight to the outside via a small piece of flexible pipe.
Each tank has a level sensor fed to a BEP Marine brand LED water level indicator. This indicator and the sensor are powered from the “Lighting” 12V DC circuit breaker on the rear breaker panel. In mine the LHS sensor indicates level in the front tank, the RHS indicator is for the rear tank.
Adding a Drain Plug to the Rear Tank.
I added a drain so I could flush the tanks to a degree. Amazingly, this is not fitted as standard.
I used one part (the part without the threaded pipe section) of a 3/4 inch BSP sized “tank outlet” assembly screwed to the vertical side of the rear of the rear tank, and used a 3/4 BSP type plug and rubber washer.
To fit, start by marking out a drain hole position to suit the outer diameter of the outlet flange, and so the flange can be screwed on, but as low as is possible, so as to enable the best possible draining position.
Drill the drain hole in the tank with a 3/4 inch wood bit with spurs and spiral centre, on very slow speed or by hand, so as to cut the hole with the spurs, and to catch the cut piece of plastic on the centre spiral.
Then drill six holes in the tank outlet flange on each of the “flats”, and the supplied rubber washer, to fully clear the #8 x 20mm stainless steel PK screws.
Hold up the outlet to the tank lower area, identify with an index mark, then mark out the screw holes, and drill the tank to suit your attaching PK screws.
After all drilling, and before attaching the flange, park your vehicle on an incline sufficient to allow tank flushing and flush out with water. Any plastic drillings normally float and get flushed out.
Clean up the tank mating surface, and the drilled flange, for flatness and ensure that the surface is flush around all drilled holes, and wipe over with methylated spirits for cleaning. Use a small bead of wet area silicone on each side of the large rubber washer (only), and screw it all up, by hand only, using sufficient torque to attach it firmly without stripping the poly tank with the screw threads.
Use stainless steel washers under each screw head.
Use a 3/4 BSP parallel thread plug and rubber washer to seal the tank outlet.
Supporting and Protecting the Rear Tank
I replaced the original plywood support base and added some gravel protection. This works, along with new oversized mudguards on front and back, to reduce damage to the water tank by stones and small gravel, which can be devastating.
Make your new larger mudguards from 3mm rubber sheet from Clark Rubber, and use the existing bolts and screws to mount them in front of the existing mudguards.
I measured all the tank requirements and then I removed the original tank bottom plywood support, and made a new one from 12mm exterior plywood and painted it with Cabot’s Exterior Clear.
I made up a gravel protector from thin galvanized sheet ex Bunning’s for the bottom, and also cut a piece of this sheet for the front of the tank.
This is to deflect gravel; it cannot fully protect it but it is very worthwhile.
I added two pieces of 20x20 aluminium angle to the front and back of the ply as extra support for the base plywood and tank, and it is held centered on the main tank support steel straps by using the protruding heads of PK screws either side of the straps.
Be careful with the length of these screws.
To install, I emptied the tanks, loosened up the support straps on the rear tank, and juggled it all in from the sides and front, and then screwed in the holding and centering PKs last.
See photos.
While you have the tank loose, tighten all hose clamps to be firm without being over tight. Measure the sizes and get some spare clamps.
Water Pump and Access
The water pump is located behind a blank panel on the left of the bottom drawer, and screw mounted on a small plywood slide.
I removed mine and cleaned it up, including the mesh filter.
I had great difficulty in removing the pump.
I would hate to have done this in the field, before I had improved access.
I removed a ply panel over the drawer, and then cut a 235mm piece off the rear of this top panel with a small band saw; see photo.
To remove the overhead panel, release the screw cabinet connectors by rotating anti-clockwise, then remove the wood screws, and finally use a small paint scraper and hammer to slice through any possible glue.
Saw off the rear piece if you need.
If your pump occasionally has a short “brrrp” sound when the taps are turned off and the pump is powered up, then you may have a leak somewhere, and the pump is re-pressurising the tap system.
Whenever I have removed Robertson type square drive screws, I have replaced them with cross head types, because it is just a bit easier for later remote field repairs.
Filter and Hoses
The hoses under the sink in my vehicle are a mix of 1/2 and 1/4 inch tubing and John Guest type push fittings.
I found some extra fittings in my local Bunning’s, added a right angle and lengthened the hoses a bit to overcome some tight bends. The filter is a standard type, but with 1/4 inch JG connectors.
You should learn how to disconnect and reconnect these JG fittings from the JG website; easy when you know how.
Tap, Drinking Water Faucet, and Sink Plug
The twist type tap is a standard unit, still available in Camec and other shops.
I don’t believe that you can get a replacement washer easily for this Italian sourced tap.
The drinking water push lever tap (“faucet” in USA terms) is made in California, and is available still from Australian agents.
Some Conquerors do not have the drinking water faucet fitted.
This filtered drinking water is a great asset and we use it much more than we originally thought we would.
The faucet is difficult, but not impossible, to remove after removing a bottom nut. Remove the faucet complete with tubing attached.
My faucet was partially blocked, and leaking slightly, and I pulled it apart it to overhaul it. The flow control “washer” in mine is a tiny “O” ring.
I used a selection of tiny “O” rings from Bearing Supplies (BSC) to overhaul mine, but you can get an original spares kit from the Australian agents for $25 approx.
The “O” rings are so cheap that your supplier may ask you to buy ten of each.
It is easy to reverse flush out any blockages in situ, using water, after first removing the tube from one end of the filter, but if yours leaks at all, then replace the “O” ring(s).
I have added a small JG tap between the filter and the JG “T” towards the pump. This is so I can turn the faucet off, and still have the turn tap functional, if ever the faucet or filter develops a leak whilst travelling.
The sink plug is a standard Smev 35mm dia type, widely available.
I added an extra length of plastic pipe to my original drain pipe under the vehicle, so as to control the waste water better.
Hopefully of assistance and interest to someone.
Cheerio, mike
I have also posted this on http://aussiemotorhomers.com
Parts List and Data
Rear Tank Drain Socket – Tank Access or Tank Outlet 3/4 inch BSP, Bunnings and others.
Water Pump - Shurflo 2088-403-143, 30 PSI, widely available. Tech Sheet available from Shurflow.
Water indicators - BEP Marine RV-TG-2G, two (2) senders RV-TS-5M. Tech Sheet available from BEP
Filtered Drink Water Filter - Hydrolife HL170PP (with 1/4 tube push fittings).
Filtered Drink Water Tap – from QMP California USA, model QMPT100 Tubing Attached Faucet (faucet is marked “LM 106116 RV”). Tech Sheet available from QMP USA.
Spare kit QMP519, QMP Australian agents are "The Watershop" Parramatta Rd Stanmore NSW.
Filtered Drink Water Tap - O rings - tip seal = OD5.5 ID2, T1.78mm, and valve seal = 2 x OD8.5 ID5.4 T1.78 mm.
Filtered Drink Water tube - JG 1/4 Tube and JG type fittings; also by Australian "Aquaport" in Bunnings 2012, or from John Guest parts stockists.
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