A better fence stop design needed

Hello, I am making a mitre saw station like the one in the attached photos from bt3central.com ( Finished Projects)

I intend having lines marked on the top of the sliding table, at right angles to the track, which show the distance from the blade in 300mm increments. The rear of the stop jig will be aligned with this.

I am not happy with the design of the stop on the right most support jig, which is intended to enable the same lengths to be cut each time. I don't like the idea of having to use a wing nut to tighten the stop, and I would prefer a stop that was right across the whole width of this sliding jig

Can anyone please advise on a better design? I am open to all ideas and suggestions for this.

G'day Dengy

The practicality of my solution depends upon the usual length of board that you wish to cut. In my case these are fairly short usually (<1m). I have a couple of extension wings either side of the Kapex, and I prefer to cut to a pencil line marked on the board (ignoring the laser guides). For repeat cuts I get the first board lined up with a clearance tooth on the blade and clamp it (both sides of the cut). Then I clamp an alum block (50x50x100) at the end of that board and just butt the next board up to the block. This does away with the need for fancy cutting stations (for me).

I agree that the example you have shown is not robust enough, nor wide enough.

Place 2 screws/dowels at the junction of the top rail and the side stiles/brackets on the rear of your stop, clamp a piece of timber the full width of your top rail but another 20mm higher which rests on the screws/dowels, A small G cramp or "F" / quick cramp positioned upside down under the cross rail and Bob's your uncle

After having a think about the above comments, I decided to go with magnets, with a backboard held to the frame with 4 rare earth magnets , each 10mm diameter epoxied in to the frame and the timber. My fear that they would not grip tightly enough was unfounded, in fact, quite the opposite.

There is a 100mm 10 x 10 pice of jarrah fixed to the underside of the stop base which glides along the track, which is a standard Capral profile which comes in 6 m lengths and tales the standard 5/16" T-bolt

When the backboard for the stop is not in use, it hangs off the back of the frame, neatly tucked away.

The overall height of the stop is 109mm to match the level of the aluminium base of the Festool Kapex 120 saw

[QUOTE=Dengue; which glides along the track, which is a standard Capral profile which comes in 6 m lengths and tales the standard 5/16" T-bolt

[/QUOTE]

Is it the sail track that they have listed and what is the cost for 6.0m length please

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dengue

After having a think about the above comments, I decided to go with magnets, with a backboard held to the frame with 4 rare earth magnets , each 10mm diameter epoxied in to the frame and the timber. My fear that they would not grip tightly enough was unfounded, in fact, quite the opposite.

There is a 100mm 10 x 10 pice of jarrah fixed to the underside of the stop base which glides along the track, which is a standard Capral profile which comes in 6 m lengths and tales the standard 5/16" T-bolt

When the backboard for the stop is not in use, it hangs off the back of the frame, neatly tucked away.

The overall height of the stop is 109mm to match the level of the aluminium base of the Festool Kapex 120 saw

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The Capral track you mention, is that the sail track that they list and if so how much for a 6.0m length

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rwbuild

The Capral track you mention, is that the sail track that they list and if so how much for a 6.0m length

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It looks like what I buy from the local place (Ullrich alum.) and they call it road sign channel, roughly 25x28mm and 6m long, comes with a 5mm slot, change out of $50 last time I bought some, BobL gets one that is a little bit bigger from I think Capral.



Pete

You can find the details of the track that I posted here:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/m...1/#post1727053