Printable View
Hi Guys,
Is there anyone in the Brisbane area that has the capability to ream out the tailstock on my Jet Wood lathe. The size of the hole is 1 3/8 inch. A Po gave it a hard life and it needs a bit of TLC to get it working properly.
I am at Alderley on the Northside but could make it anywhere in the Brisbane area.
Failing that anyone know any fitter and turner they would recommend?
Thanks,
Russ
Hi Russ,
Is the hole tapered or parallel.Eg Morse taper or not? I can't recall how the tailstocks are made in a wood lathe.It will make a great deal of difference.
I cant' see many of home machinists in Brissie, having a reamer that big.Maybe some of the lads that build model steam trains might use that size.Perhaps an ad in Gumtree.
Grahame
The largest in my adjustable set only goes up to 1 1/16".
If you are talking about the hole that the ram slides in, boring with a fine feed may be good enough. Of course, if you enlarge the hole for the ram you will need either a new ram or a sleeve to get it functional again.
Maybe a photo or two would help people understand the problem.
Michael
Hi Graeme,
It is parallel. The morse taper is machined into the the end of the quill. It is where the quill fit into the casting that I need to "ease"
I do have a couple of adjustable reamers but as usual you don't have the one you want.
Cheers,
Russ
Hi Michael G,
Thanks for the reply.
Here are a couple of photos that may make it a bit clearer.
Cheers,
Russ
Emery on a stick?
There appears to be a repair or modification done to the tailstock.
Those lugs appear to have weld on them. Is there a looseness at the front of the tailstock opening and tight at the rear.
The modification /repair would have an impact on this problem perhaps?
Grahame
Yes there has definitely been mods done before I acquired it.
The tightness seems to be where the Quill goes in and if I insert a wedge in the slot at the top it moves freely. The problem with that is you can't clamp the quill and it tends to loosen with use.
I might try the emery on a stick as I don't think it is a lot that needs removing.
Thanks,
Russ
I was only half serious, but I bet it would work just fine - as long as you find a way to identify high spots and monitor progress. Usually that would be spotting blue (bearing blue) but that would be a little tricky in this situation. You could try applying blue to the quill, inserting it and see if you can see marks in the bore. If not, the scrape marks on the quill would provide some guidance.
I suppose there could be some risk of abrasive embedding in the iron bore. If so that would accelerate wear. I don't know how much risk or how much wear. Maybe scraping would be safer. I've never tried to scrape a bore but it should be do-able if the trouble zone is not far in. You'd need to get the lighting right and take your time.
https://encrypted.google.com/search?...per&tbs=imgo:1
PS: But if the problem is caused by wear on the quill you'd need to fix that first.
You could also try a flap wheel.
Careful use of a fine half round file to remove high spots could work.
Wood lathes are not super critical, for accuracy, particularly after a welding job.
regards
Bruce