Room in shed corner with mini mezanine, framing timber size?

Just after a bit of advice on what size framing timber i should use to build a 2500w x4250l x 2200h room in the corner of the shed, essentially its a room for the wife's horse gear, going to line it with plaster board and maybe use some leftover floating floor that i have from another job for the floor, shelves for the gear etc etc, etc and i figured i might as well make use of the space above to store things, so i'll be using some 16mm MDF most likely or a few sheets of yellow tongue up there.

i expect i'll have to use some type of engineered timber for the 2500 span before i sheet the top of the roof? any tips on that as well while im here.

the other question i had, i've started sticking up insulation on the internal walls of the shed in preperation to line all of the walls, and have been using contact adhesive in spray cans with good results, bit of a zig and a zag on the wall, bit on the pre-cut insulation and throw it up 5 mins later, got a few sections of wall done 4 months or so ago and they havent fallen off, but i might need to win the lottery to do the whole shed this way (17000x7500x3000) i did experiment with using contact adhesive out of a spray gun with the biggest nozzle i had but it just clogged the gun, and or just spattered about, can you thin it with anything? or can you buy spray able adhesive easilly?

This is a how long is a piece of string question - the size (and spacing) will depend what you are going to put up there.
I assume you want to walk or crawl up there pudding down some sort of flooring will help spread the weight a bit.
If it was only just a few pieces of wood then 70 x 35 every 600 mm might be OK.
If it was me I'd use 45 x 90 every 450 mm and that would cover pretty well everything.

You could always look up span tables ... That would provide an environment considered as a floor ... Or ceiling. Google span tables ... Grab a coffee or beer or favourite beverage ... And start reading.

I used these when I built a rather large desck some years ago and we nicknamed it the helipad.

Glenn.

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710a using Tapatalk

BobL, has got it 45x90.@ 450. Will do all you need. PAUL.

90x45 @ 450 sounds like the go then, might as well go overkill then i can put heavier things up there if i need to without a worry, i will go have a look at the span tables at some point before i start as well, thanks for the info guys

so no one has any idea on the spray glue side of things?

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Originally Posted by dan_6

. . . . .so no one has any idea on the spray glue side of things?

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There's no need for a "Z", just a single line across the top to hold it there is usually enough.

Don't get too worried about how you hold insulation in the first instance. You only need to hold it there till you line your structure. There are heaps of ways of doing that. Pick the cheapest, as your lining will do the work after you have finished. Spray adhesives sound very expensive to me. Just my opinion. PAUL.

190 x 35 MGP pine, 200 x 38 green hardwood or 170 x 35 kiln dried hardwood all @ 450 centres is the MINIMUM allowable size as per the code spanning 2.5m

Anything less WILL NOT COMPLY or PERFORM AS REQUIRED

I have a licensed and accredited program which will certify the approved sizes if required.

A word of caution and professional advice: IF YOU DONT BUILD ACCORDING TO THE CODE you will have no insurance cover if anything goes wrong and the implications of that doesn't bear thinking about and YOU are LIABLE

I also humbly suggest to all well meaning members of the forum that unless they have access to the relevant technical information that they would be better advising someone to seek qualified advice from an appropriate source relevant to their needs, that way all due diligence and care has been exercised and it will never come back to bite you or the person asking.

The most common way of holding insulation in place that I've seen is a staple gun and some of that fluro flagging tape (looks like insulation tape but it's not sticky). Just staple the tape to the studs halfway across each stud bay.

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Originally Posted by rwbuild

190 x 35 MGP pine, 200 x 38 green hardwood or 170 x 35 kiln dried hardwood all @ 450 centres is the MINIMUM allowable size as per the code spanning 2.5m

Anything less WILL NOT COMPLY or PERFORM AS REQUIRED

I have a licensed and accredited program which will certify the approved sizes if required.

A word of caution and professional advice: IF YOU DONT BUILD ACCORDING TO THE CODE you will have no insurance cover if anything goes wrong and the implications of that doesn't bear thinking about and YOU are LIABLE

I also humbly suggest to all well meaning members of the forum that unless they have access to the relevant technical information that they would be better advising someone to seek qualified advice from an appropriate source relevant to their needs, that way all due diligence and care has been exercised and it will never come back to bite you or the person asking.

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thanks for that info, now i know what i need to look for in regards to the ceiling/floor of mezanine.

as far as i was reading above no one had actually offered an opinion on what timber i was going to use to span the 2500, i was taking the above advice as my stud spacing for the walls, and was only planning on running the 90x45 as verticals/top/bottom plates and noggins etc

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Master Splinter

The most common way of holding insulation in place that I've seen is a staple gun and some of that fluro flagging tape (looks like insulation tape but it's not sticky). Just staple the tape to the studs halfway across each stud bay.

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then main places i need to use some kind of glue is when its on the tin sheets, the stud wall of the room will be no problems, just like in a house,
but in the rest of the shed against the tin there will end up being somewhat of an air gap between either the insulation and the wall, or the insulation and the tin after i have put up the sidewall frames before i affix the sheeting, managed to pick up 60 packer sheets, 16mm MDF (2400x1200) for just under $2 a sheet!, most of them are melamine both sides. which is what i am going to use for walls in the rest of the shed

plan with the rest of the shed was just running 90x45 vertically between the wall girts @ 600 centers, then affix sheets horizontally, at this stage i was planning to run the verticals on their sides (with the 45 being the depth off the wall) unless there is a really good reason not to, also would be quite happy to step that timber size down it if was on the heavily excessive side.

Walls 2400 high 70 x35 studs @ 450 centres with 70 x 45 top & bottom plates.
If studs at 600 centres then studs 90 x 35 with 90 x 70 top plate & 90 x 45 bottom plate
1 row noggins for walls up to 2700 high then 2 rows over 2700 high.
for door opening studs up to 900 wide 70 x 45 or 90 x 45 with 70 x 45 or 90 x 45 head, any opening over 900 double studs either side or 70 x 70 or 90 x 70 with head checked into studs.
Depending on width of opening over 900 wide, the size of the head has to be calculated according to the code.

Ray, just out of interest what does the code require for mezzanine floor support if something like a suitable 4.2m long glulam beam was used to divide the span by two?
It might be able to save dan a few bob.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BobL

Ray, just out of interest what does the code require for mezzanine floor support if something like a suitable 4.2m long glulam beam was used to divide the span by two?
It might be able to save dan a few bob.

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252 x 55 Smartlam GL 13C is OK. Calculated to 92% load with 11mm deflection.
It will be dearer to use a glulam beam as opposed to the required joists.
290 x 42 LVL would be cheaper than glulam. Calculated to 85% loading 9mm deflection

Suggest do your homework on the costings of the options. If using an intermediate beam, joists only need to be 90 x 45 continuous span over the beam