How to do frame and panel lids for boxes?

Hey everyone,

I am pretty new to this and have started a lot of my woodworking with boxes to get better with various tools.
I often will make a simple box with a panel inserted into a groove for the lid then saw the lid off as a whole.

I recently saw the thread below - Walnut jewlery box. I did post, but have a feeling the thread is quite old now.

I would love some advice on making frame and panel lids where the panel sits flush with the frame (rather than sitting in a groove below) and furthermore, I was bewildered as to how this boxes lid was made.

I understand the basics like the inlay around the burl veneer. Where I am stumped is: On the outside the " frame" around the panel looks maybe 3cm wide but on the inside pictures the lid shuts as per normal like it was sawn off as one and meets with the box which looks about 1cm thick.

I dont think I would be able to work to that level for many many years (if ever), but would love to know the technique used to do that, if any of you know?

Thanks all

Does this help? Make the lid the same size as the box. Glue it to the top. Then cut the box at whatever point you want to create a new lid.

If you make the lid slightly oversize, you can use a flush trim router bit to make it fit exactly, or sand it until it is flush.

Attachment 311863


cheers

ajw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ajw

Does this help? Make the lid the same size as the box. Glue it to the top. Then cut the box at whatever point you want to create a new lid.

If you make the lid slightly oversize, you can use a flush trim router bit to make it fit exactly, or sand it until it is flush.

Attachment 311863


cheers

ajw

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Thanks Ajw,

It does make a lot of sense. Is this a well known technique?
Andy said he fraimed a piece of birch ply then veneered the middle. Must of offset the birch by the width of the veneer? Ie The birch was only 0.6mm from the top of the walnut frame so that the veneer would go in nicely?

I imagine routing a groove offfset only 6mm would be wrought with problems though!??

Really want to give this a try sometime now, such a lovely lid design. Need to work on my own veneering technique now though.

Cheers

I imagine you would cut a rebate in the panel to form a tongue, which sits in the groove of your frame. The depth of the rebate would equal the width of the walls of the groove, so that the panel is flush when assembled.

silentC,

Wouldnt this mean the panel would sit flush with the frame as you mentioned.... However then if you veneer that pannel the veneer would not sit flusah, but above the surrounding frame. If you were to sand it down- you would just sand away the veneer?

Thanks again for your help as well

however as my thought process continues,

I imagine you could just rebate 0.6mm deeper, and cut the groove 0.6mm lower. to account for the venneer?

Or Veneer first, then cut so that panel sits flush?

If I was doing it, I would probably veneer the top first, then cut the rebate. I think that would be easier than dropping it in. But I'm not a box maker.

I veneer the panel first, then you know how deep you need to cut the rebate. I make the rebate a fraction deeper, so you sand the mitred frame down to the same level as the veneer to create a smooth top.

cheers,


ajw

Thanks guys,

Ajw, is there any advantge to the method of rebating the lid to make a tongue over making a true tongue by routing either side? (in any box with a panel lid)

Not sure I understand your question, but each method delivers a different result. It depends what kind of effect you're after. I'll try to find some examples for you.

ajw