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Hi
What is the recommended blue for surface plates ? All I have is the bearing blue which is too heavy and thick and sticky . I think some forum members have their own "secret formulas" . Can i do some arm twisting and squeeze the secrets out :p Mike
Hi there,
If you do a search you will see plenty of discussions on home made recipes but for a ball park figure, try 20g of prussian blue powder and mix with 100g of Shell Alvania RL2 grease. Mix well. Now the Shell Alvania may actually be called something else now, I'm not sure. Failing that grease, pretty much any brown type grease will do. If it ends up too thick for your liking then you can also add a drop of oil to thin it down. Only takes a drop or so though.
Edit: you can use that bearing blue. It does seem a bit thicker and also seems to be a little more gritty (from memory) but will still transfer OK, from my memories of the scraping class. A hard rubber roller to roll out the blue also helps. Much better than smearing out with the fingers
Cheers,
Simon
Simon's ratio is about right, 1:5 pigment to grease by weight.
I've been playing around with some heritage colours. I got some natural Lamp Black and some Red Lead pigments in from the States. I found a grease at Bunning's of all places. It Kingcrome branded. They only have it in 400g tubes and a 500g pot. Its a reasonably neutral colour, and the consistency is about right being a number 2.
For $12 bucks for 500 g, its cheap enough. I tried Bunnies because it was a weekend. There was a discussion at P.M a month or so back. That was to try oxides for cement colouring. I had 3k'gs left over from a reno job, in black. Don't waste your time with that, its abrasive and lumpy.
R.S Components have the Yanky Hi-Spot blue if you didn't want to roll your own. But it's about $18 - $19 bucks for a little tube.
Regards Phil.
I don't know if it passes muster with those in the know, or even it's the same brand as you have, but I use a bearing blue and it works for me. Yes it is thick, but you just roll it thinner :wink: You don't need much! The main problem I have with it is looking like a Smurf afterwards, particularly since I tend to use the palm of my hand a lot on the plate. I'd definitely be keen to find out a water soluble alternative, or at least something that cleans up easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisman
Dykem (i have something in a syringe from Phil...i think its Dykem) is water soluble Pete. Cleans up well but i find its colour is not as strong as the Marko Uber Blau so it is not as good for the finishing passes.
Ew
I'm using gloves more and more in the shed. Keep my hands clean and stop those rusty fingerprints. Not used with rotating tools of course, but for general handling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete F
Thanks everyone for the "Blue" information.
I purchased the Prussian Blue Powder & tried mixing with grease, but never seemed to get it right.
Probably had the wrong grease !!
Reverted back to a tube of "Power Plus" Bearing Blue, I think it came from an Auto One Store.
Done a fair bit of scraping since the course back in April 2012 & the tube of Blue has worked for me.
Tried the roller method but still like the spreading with fingers, I seem to get a more even & consistent spread.
I would like to try the Dykem.
regards
Bruce
If you got it from me, and its water soluble, what you have is Canode. Dykem is the manufacturer of Hi-Spot blue. Which is oil / grease based. And a bit better quality than the Peps / Holts / PowerPlus Au versions you can get at Auto places.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ueee
The Canode we get from Volk in Michigan. Canode Die Spotting Ink - Volk Corporation
@ Bruce - I can send you some to try.
Regards Phil.
Yes but in this case I think there's no substitute for getting your hands dirty ... literally. It's amazing how sensitive our hands are, and it's possible to feel the tiniest piece of grit and dirt on the plate with your hand that I think would be practically impossible to detect any other way, never mind with gloves on. The lack of sensitivity would be a little like ... no, never mind :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by pippin88
PhilQuote:
Originally Posted by Machtool
Thanks so much for that kind offer, Phil.
I have been wanting to try the Dykem stuff for a while.
If you do not have my address, I will send you a PM.
regards
Bruce
While browsing the op shop,and I found one of these , for $1
Norpro Professional Adjustable Wire Cheese Slicer Cutter Hand Held NEW | eBay
It does smooth out the bearing blue , but I will also try a rubber one like the hobby printers use Mike
Scrape a top slide and make your lunch at the same time. Nice work!Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisman
I think I bought my brayer from an arts and crafts shop in the local shopping centre. It was cheap cheap cheap. .... didn't slice my cheese however. Or cut it for that matter!!
Mike.Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisman
If you have to cut it with a cheese slicer, you're putting the blue on too thick.
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. Sorry Couldn't resist. :D
Its the hard rubber brayer you are looking for. Shopping centres seem to be full of those arts and craft places. They are normally under $20 bucks. Speedball is the brand I've been using. One here delivered (different brand) for $20. Milini Premium Hard Rubber Roller Brayer High Quality 100mm Wide | eBay
Regards Phil.
Thanks Phil. I had a nagging feeling that it was not Dykem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtool
Ew
Ha Ha Ha! That deserved more than just a "like"!Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtool