First boat/question on quick canoe

Downloaded the plans for the quick canoe. Getting everything together before I start to build but have some questions. Maybe they have been answered here before but figured I would ask.
When it's time to make the fillet for the inside of the boat should you wet-out the surface with epoxy/resin mixture first? Or just put the epoxy/filler mixture straight onto the dry wood? I am using west systems epoxy.
Installing the gunwales you screw from the inside of the boat into the gunwale as described in the plan. Once the gunwales are mounted how do the in-wales attach? Is that shown anywhere?
Thanks for the help
Mike

One other question would be do you have to do the whole filleting process in one shot or can you break it up into sections? Example would be when filleting the bottom of the boat can you just do some of it then come back another day and continue where I left off??
Thanks for the help!


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Hi Mike. I used West System on my GIS. I put a green coat of unthickened epoxy on every surface that I epoxy together. I don't wait for any length of time after the green coat as it usually soaks in pretty quick, but go straight to the thickened stuff which I then typically apply to just one of the mating surfaces. I'm pretty certain I used the same approach on the fillets. I didn't precoat anything before assembly except interior parts like the centerboard case.

I don't know how the inwales are intended to be installed in the canoe. On the GIS, I used all my clamps and then made up some plywood U-shaped clamps with wedges to pull together the rest. Taping the end grain of the blocks might help deal with the squeeze out mess.

I built a CLC canoe (Sassafras 16) under CLC's direction at the Family Boat Building event of the Woodenboat Show at Mystic. They provided West Systems products as part of the build. I'm pretty sure we filleted first, then coated.

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Originally Posted by Kineticmike

One other question would be do you have to do the whole filleting process in one shot or can you break it up into sections? Example would be when filleting the bottom of the boat can you just do some of it then come back another day and continue where I left off??
Thanks for the help!

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In principle it is possible to start and stop. The only thing that makes me a little cautious is the duct tape can move or let go over longer periods. Most of the time there won't be any trouble.

If you are running out of time I would do a bunch of quick mini fillets - say about four per side.

Small enough that the bigger fillet you intend will cover them easily.

I've also seen a couple of videos of using a cyanoacrylate glue which might be the ultimate solution

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VXyN6Y3TkA

MIK

Thanks for the quick replies. Hope to have some pictures up when it's done!
Mike in New York


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Mike, where in New York? Do you mean NYC? If so, definitely check out Sebago Canoe Club in Canarsie Brooklyn. Patrick (Flatdaniels here) is a new member and has very high praise for the club, the people, the vibe, etc. They have a training program in case you're a novice and have several club kayaks and sailboats to check out to add variety to your boating regime.


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Thanks for the info. I am in Dutchess County NY. Maybe 1.5 hours north of Brooklyn. Here is where I'm at now with the quick canoe. Do the screws for the keel stay in after the epoxy hardens? And for the skegs as well?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...435c355b4c.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...bfed0f8d48.jpg

I'm not a QC veteran but my guess is no on the screws. That's MIK's standard method. The screws see temporary clamps. The epoxy adhesive is the true bond between parts. If the glue has hardened considerably (a couple days or so), you should hear the screws with a soldering iron before attempting to remove. It will soften the epoxy and prevent snapping off the screw head. Truth is, you can leave them in place and it won't harm anything.


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Howdy, the screws that go from the inside of the boat throught the part of the bottom that is double thickness ply do stay in. Or are replaced with stainless steel, monel or bronze screws. Normally Stainless are the cheapest.

They prevent the "skegs" from cracking if they hit anything. No need for any other screws in the structure. The glue is reliable by itself if epoxy is used.

MIK

Thanks guys for the answers to my questions. Hope to get it done in the next couple of weeks before it gets to cold to take it for a test run.


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Do yourself a big favor and download the free "Epoxy Book" from System Three:

http://www.systemthree.com/reslibrar...Epoxy_Book.pdf

. . . and the free "User's Guide's" from West System:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/

. . . also the "Gougeon Brothers Boat Construction" book:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...k%20061205.pdf

Most every question you have can be found in one of these texts and you'll be well armed to tackle your current and next projects.

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Originally Posted by PAR

Do yourself a big favor...

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Thanks for the links!


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Thank you for those links. Looks like some great information.


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