Sanding block for Hook & Loop abrasives

I'm looking for a sanding block that will take H&L abrasives (I'll have 75mm wide rolls). I don't seem to have turned up a whole bunch.

There's Dura-Block, but it sounds like it may be a bit soft for woodwork. Like the idea of the Radius block, but not available in H&L (maybe yet).

There are a few that take 125mm or 150mm discs, but that means a) wasting part of the disc, and b) possibly fracturing on the bend up the sides.

Preppin-Weapon and the like all look great but way to slow changing grits - not feasible - that's why I'm after H&L.

Sandpaper Man has this offering:
http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/er...-x-127-mm.html

and a longer version.

Mirka have a DE hose version, which can have a curved face attached to it. Not sure how practical the hose hanging off such a lightweight sander would be, but it's certainly a great idea.


Anyone know of other options? I was surprised to see that Lee Valley had, well, nothing I think it was.

Try searching for auto body repair suppliers.
I vaguely remember having used then 10/15 years ago when I was panel beating.
Good blocks then come from Europ
Matt

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...=7581723&rt=r3

There was a discussion going a while ago about using H+L in the 12in disc sanders, and others previously on replacing the hook face on angle grinder pads, which we used to do regularly by rough cutting oversize discs from adhesive backed sheet Hook, fixing them to a cleaned backing disk, then trimming to the disk. When we were doing this, we were using 125mm angle grinders to cut back and dress welds for steel and stainless furniture frames, generally mirror polished. Four to five grinders running 50% of the time over 60hrs per week split shift, we would replace the hook on 1 or 2 pads a week generally.

I don't see why you cannot convert any normal block that you buy or make to H+L by adding the sheet hook to them. Sandpaper man have self adhesive hook sheets 500 x 305 in stock.

Remember that hook and loop does change the dynamics of the block, in that it allows more movement than a rigid backing block would, but less movement than a foam surface on a pad might, so they would be a little more likely to say soften a square edge than a solid block might be, and way less inclined to follow the curves of a profiled block for sanding internal curves etc.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by malb

I don't see why you cannot convert any normal block that you buy or make to H+L by adding the sheet hook to them. Sandpaper man have self adhesive hook sheets 500 x 305 in stock.

Remember that hook and loop does change the dynamics of the block, in that it allows more movement than a rigid backing block would, but less movement than a foam surface on a pad might, so they would be a little more likely to say soften a square edge than a solid block might be, and way less inclined to follow the curves of a profiled block for sanding internal curves etc.

---

Yes, hear what you say Mal. It has occurred to me earlier today (when researching) that I have some 2" hook tape (with FIERCE glue) leftover from a project about 25 years ago. I suspect that the glue is still quite ok. So I could actually fashion a block out of timber with rasps, which might be a bit of fun.

Understand what you mean about the movement of the H&L, although I'd say it will be an improvement on trying to hold a piece of thick cloth backed Colour Coded Grit onto a block manually. There's PLENTY of movement in that! :D

When I was mentioning movement, I may have used the wrong word, ut can't think of an alternative still. Not really referring to the material sliding around on a block so much as compressing and releasing. For example you might use a solid block to sand an edge so that you don't start to round the corners, do the same with a H&L block and the difference in pressure between the section on the surface and the section overhanging would cause the section on the surface to compress slightly, creating a slight radius at the transition from on surface to overhang, and slightly rounding the corner instead of keeping them sharp. Similarly, on a soft block, it will make the block act stiffer.