3 Attachment(s)
Different style of bandsawn box
An interesting article by Michael Cullen in Fine Woodworking describes how he makes bandsawn boxes. My description here may not be too clear so I suggest that you read his article - it is free online if you don't have the magazine. Basically, after slicing off a lid piece he cuts fairly freeform and organic shapes in the middle of a rectangular block of wood with the bandsaw table tilted slightly. This creates the inner wall of the final box and leaves a tapered solid "plug" and a tapered outer form. Then he glues the block back together at the lead-in and lead out cuts. Once the glue has set he cuts the outside of the box parallel with the inner wall. Then he cuts off the bottom of the centre "plug" to drop in to the centre and form the base and the top of the plug to be the locator for the top of the box. Cullen paints and engraves/patterns in his boxes but I prefer wood to look like wood, so I won't be doing that.
I was inspired by his ideas though, and I have a couple of large chunks of bluegum (Eucalyptus teretecornis) that I rescued from the woodchipper when my neighbour's tree died some time ago. I don't turn so I was wondering what to do with it now that it down to about 14% moisture level. This article gave me the idea and I used the concept of the bluegum leaf for a shape. The rough box has a chunky top at the stage I photographed it but my better half told me to thin it down so, I have done so, but not yet finished or photographed it.
Attachment 361863 shape of the box
Attachment 361864 rough sanded with chunky lid
Attachment 361865 the top of the cut off "plug" positioned on the lid slice before gluing to the lid and cutting the lid shape.
I actually liked the chunky lid, but ... maybe it was better to thin it down.
Some important points if you are inspired to make your own.
1. Because of the slope of the table you need much more than you expect for the lead-in and lead-out for the initial cut. Those cuts are where you glue the structure together before cutting the outside of the box. It is amazing how only a 3 degree slope on the table makes the entry and exit points quite different on a 170 mm high box. I didn't ensure enough length for entry and exit lines and my glue joints on the first box (this one) were not wide enough.
2. Make sure the timber you are using is structurally sound. I know, sounds obvious, but the bluegum of my second try had a hidden gum vein (kino vein) in it and the wall collapsed, and twisted on the saw, jamming and deforming the blade. A very expensive fail with a tungsten carbide tipped triple chip grind blade.
I'll post some finished photos of this box when I get to that point but, having lost my fine blade there won't be any more until I replace it. Have to break the piggy bank!
