Hei Guys,
Anyone used acrylic blanks, I got some today and was wondering what I need to do differently to wood when working with them.
Cheers
Paul
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Hei Guys,
Anyone used acrylic blanks, I got some today and was wondering what I need to do differently to wood when working with them.
Cheers
Paul
not much, just use a sharp drill bit clear the drill hole often and glue up as normal.
I sand to 2000 wet & dry then used EEE they come up a treat.
Good luck.
Cheers Ian :)
Watch out for heat buildup as they can bubble if they get too hot.
If you don't have any EEE; car duco cutting & polishing compund will do the trick nicely. I have also heard of brasso being used. Haven't tried it myself though.
Ken
Brasso works fine, as does a paste made with fine baby talc & water. Silvo (the silverware cleaning equivalent of Brasso) on the other hand, isn't worth trying. DAMHIKT. :D
Can't say that often enoughQuote:
Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot
beware the heat - not only can they bubble but ridges can form and that is a wee bit nasty:eek:
Paul, I have turned numerous pens from bought acrylic blanks and also from Corian. This is the material used for kitchen bench tops.
Both turn well. I use a very sharp skew chisel and sand to 1000, and then use Brasso followed by EEE.
The only bit to watch is the drilling. Make sure you drill slowly and clear the drill often.
Good luck
Macca
Hei Macca,
I haven't used these yet, but I was at the wood show yesterday, the GF liked the look of them and there was a little stall selling the blanks for half the price ($10 a 5 pack) of Carbatec and Timbecon so I grabbed some.
Generally for pens I find myself using a Hameltt half inch bowl gouge for roughing (I know it's the wrong tool but that gouge is just so damn nice to hold) and then a Hamlett half in skew for the real work.
I shall get some pen kits this week and have a play.
Cheers guys
Paul
HiQuote:
Originally Posted by smidsy
I have found that turning is actually easy on the acrylics,but on the finishing side i have come up trumps with liquid sandpaper and to final of padding laquer made by goblins in South Africa-please contact me if you can not find a similar product,i will help you where i can!
Good luck
However, Silvo is great for cleaning glass :D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
Wipe it on, leave to dry a few seconds, buff it off with a soft cloth - clear as.
Sharp tools and a light touch is required.
Avoid any heat buildup.
Sand from 180 to 400 using very light pressure. Do not let the sand paper stay in contact for too long.
Sand with 0000 steel wool, again with light pressure, you do not want any heat build up.
Polish with Brasso applied with toweling, firm pressure but avoid the heat buildup. Buff off with clean toweling.
Again polish with Brasso applied with toweling, this time with very light pressure. Buff off with clean toweling.
Beautiful deep lustrous finish with no scratches.
Same as Sprog till I get to 400. Then I wet sand 600 and then 1000 W&D then EEE and that's it. No fuss, brilliant finish every time.
Dan
Paul
The blanks you bought at the show are not the same type of Acrylic that is sold at CTec but Timbercon is the sole outlet for these blanks. They are made by the man that was selling them in Perth. This type of Acrylic is very soft compared to the other type and needs a lot less sanding. The man say's to only sand to 400 and then use car polish to finish off. I haven't tried them yet but a friend has and he had a cracking problem when almost through whilst drilling. Perhaps because the material is softer it binds a bit more and gets a little hotter.
DanF
I have had the same problem with all blanks, timber (burl) and acrylic alike. I now find that the best method of drilling is to cut the blanks slightly over length (about 10 mm) drill to a couple of mm from the end then trim off the excess, exposing the drilled hole. As long as you clear the drill often, you won't have any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by westpest
Dan
As with both types of Acrylics The CT Acrylic type and the Opalac
You can finish to a high polish using wet & dry up to 2000g ,
I prefer to use the wet & dry wet but with a drop of dishwashing liquid in to help lubrication. Also try to use a light hand as too much pressure will just put more scratches in and a heat build up will bubble up.
As for breaking just before getting throught the end it is usually due to a build up of material in the flutes of the drill and creating more heat. You have to keep the flutes clear more often with both materials.
A lot more care is required but good results can be had.