need a ute - maybe gas?

Hello members, l'm looking a getting a ute (2wd) probably a Ford 2012> with the injected gas, or even duel fuel, <100,000k's

I want a tray not a tub, preferably with ladder racks or similar, etc etc.

Has anyone got or know of anyone with the said model and have they had any trouble?

I know the fords have rust problem in the engine bay, but I'm not sure if its every car or just the odd one? perhaps someone could enlighten me/us, on the rust problem.

I did think of the holden but there is "talk" that the 3.6L is a sludgy motor, but I suppose a engine flush every 12 months and use 5w oil would solve that?

I;m not a brand fan, but in saying that I've never owned a Ford or a ute, but its time to get one - either one, I just want something reliable and has good comfortable seats (very important), as driving long distances will be happening in the next few years.

Yes, gas is not avaialbe in some places but I'm sticking to main highways etc.

So if anyone can help it would be great.
Regards
Stevo

I have a Falcon BF11, dedicated gas, 4.1litre, 6 cyl, auto, just clicking over 450,000k 80% highway, custom canopy usually fully loaded.

They have to be serviced V regular, so when looking check service book or ask for service invoices/receipts. radiator water contamination can happen. Australian Ford Forums - Powered by vBulletin have stacks of sections, mostly intelligent answers....(much like here :rolleyes:)

There are sections on different models etc etc

Hey Tonto, thanks for the Ford link, been talking a few bod's that have utes and they keep bleating about getting a diesel, but I'm yet to decide, diesel utes seem to thousand's of $$$ more, I'm not towing, just lugging around some timber, and camping gear.

I wonder if the newer ford utes have the radiator and transmission cooling separate from each other, bloke at work had his cross contaminate.

I'll keep doing my homework, then I'll be confused as %^#$

Any reason to not get a hilux ute? I had 2 and loved them.

240k on one and 220k on the other no problems.

Just got a colorado 4wd ute because towing with the 2.7l hilux wasn't safe

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No reason Bebbo, I have to drive a few to find out the best for my requirements.

Thanks for suggesting the Hi-lux.

I had a ford Ranger diesel. Excellent ute. I'll never buy a petrol one again after that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Not enough!!

Hey Tonto, thanks for the Ford link, been talking a few bod's that have utes and they keep bleating about getting a diesel, but I'm yet to decide, diesel utes seem to thousand's of $$$ more, I'm not towing, just lugging around some timber, and camping gear.

I wonder if the newer ford utes have the radiator and transmission cooling separate from each other, bloke at work had his cross contaminate.

I'll keep doing my homework, then I'll be confused as %^#$

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Not hard to add an external auto oil cooler to bypass the one in the radiator. A common modification on vehicles used to tow caravans etc. to reduce radiator heat loading.

I have an 06 XR6 with tray which goes great but it's too low to the ground.
About 80k no probs so far, I bought it from a mates bro,needed something more comfortable than a Toyota.
A mate has an 08 gas with tray and sliding canopy plus bars, gets a real work out goes better than mine I think.
There were 3 different height Falcon Utes the RTV is probably the one to go for with 40/40 hindsight.
They are heigher of the ground and have an LSD.
A mate got over a 1,000,000ks from a Falcon taxi so if looked after they can last.
He had an oil filter that took a toilet roll inside, used to change his oil every 5k.
h.

i don't know why ford stopped making the rtv, probably the ford ranger?

as you mentioned great ground clearance, wonder why subaru don't make a ute again, needs to be bigger than the old ute.

G'day Stevo,

I just traded an '03 1-Tonner in - a BA 4.2 5 speed manual and 225k on the dial. Duel fuel with injection gas system and an aluminium tray.
Generally speaking, it was a pretty good car and a real workhorse, but a lot of problems that were cropping up that were too expensive to fix - hence the trade in.
The problems (Which are just problems that crop up in aged cars) - Heater core/control rod faulty ($1k to fix), wiper arm broken ($600 to fix), weeping seal on the gearbox ($600 to fix), plus numerous other small issues that are not specifically make/model related (cracked windscreen, sad paint finish, etc). There was quite a lot of rust in the tray frame, but the body was reasonably rust free (apart from a couple of pin-point stone chip spots)

The BIGGEST, single problem that drove me nuts with this car (and others with similar cars) was the regular demise of ignition coils. I had 8 of them go over the 12 or so years that I had it, not including the 2 that were gone when I did the trade in. From memory, they were about $350 to replace. Talking to the Ford service manager about it a couple of years ago, he offered to replace them all and start with new ones. When I asked if they had fixed the problem with the coils, he said they were just the same ones as before, so I suspect that the later model Ford's still have the same problem - but I don't know that for sure.

To be fair, the Ford did a lot of work, so I got my money's worth - but those coils just killed it for me!

Hope this helps :)

G'day Malibu, thanks for the reply, i'm even thinking of getting a van transit or similiar, so still doing research.

Too many options!

I ended up doing a deal over the phone with a Melbourne Ford dealer on a new XLS 4x4 dual cab Ranger, the Hilux and Isuzu utes were very pricey as was the XLT Ranger, I rang a few dealers but the mob I dealt with were pretty quick to respond, when I said i will go else-where.

They did stuff a few things up, but I should have kept reminding them has A,B,C been done, do your home work if you want the dealer to fit extra's, as the price can vary a lot.

Nice to drive, very comfortable seats (important) better now i have sheepskin covers on, just a heads up - the headlights are CRAP, i sent Ford a email advising them that poor lighting is no excuse in this day and age, I got fobbed with the ADR B/S.

I got the dealer to turn off the " battery smart charge" as I will install a second battery later, just as a back up when camping etc.

The space cab that I originally wanted, was 5k dearer without the kit fitted, as one dealer said " we have 50 dual cabs and 1 space cab".

i don't like the idea of the oil not being changed until the 15k mark, there is a 3k inspection so I will ask, can they change the oil (holds 9.75 litres of oil) then.

I am running it in via this guys recommendations (below), the salesman said there is a huge difference between diesels that are run in properly and those that aren't, i don't know any different, as I have never owned a diesel.

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

Regards
Stevo

PS

AVOID those tight car parks that seem to be getting smaller - walking that bit extra is good for you :D.Down the back of supermarket.

+ 1 for break-in new engines. All the new vehicles I have had I have always without exception within 1 month of purchase gone on a 2k trip and on return changed every fluid except radiator and brakes in them. Every 100k I changed everything again including dif, transmission, brakes, power steer. All have been exceptional reliable trouble free vehicles.

Cheers RW, thats Sage advice, you don;t know if small metal particles are floating about.

Not a fan of sealed transmissions. but it seems the norm now.

Running in motors is no longer needed, drive it out of the dealers and red line it is the best thing to get the rings into the bore properly. My diesel never used a drop of oil nor the two petrol motors we have done that on as modern chrome bores and modern oils make running in no longer an issue. We had 26 Sprinter diesels I used to look after that were run in using that method and none gave issues.