Insert 500mm long threaded rod

Building weightlifting pull blocks

I need to laminate/join 9 pieces of pine with a combined width of about 500mm (90mmx90mm length joined to six widths of 45x90 joined to a 90x90mm length).

I want to use a 2 threaded rods at each end running through the width of the pieces to clamp it all tightly together permanently.

Is there any easy way / method (no drill press) to line up the rod with the next drilled hole as I have had troubles before.

I want to keep the top surface level and not worrying so much about the ends which I can later circular saw when its together. Previously I punch the rod through the drilled holes into an undrilled piece then use the mark in the wood to drill the next set of holes and repeat this till I get to the last piece.

My query is. Is there an easier and more reliable method??

cheers

I have seen some people (Jimmy Diresta for example) use spray paint as a quick a dirty method to transferring a hole marking to the next piece.

I would say for big holes especially since you would have to hit it pretty hard to make the mark, and risk moving the piece.

Herman, welcome to the forums

can you post a sketch of your glue up and also list the tools you already have.
This will help people give you relevant suggestions

This is certainly doable. Here is how I would do it.

1. Set the boards up in glue up layout with the edges butted together. If you have or can borrow a clamp to hold them together, I would recommend using it.
2. Mark the boards with a line across the width of the boards where you want the holes for the threaded rod to pass through with a framing square.
3. Separate the boards.
4. Using a square, mark a line down the edges of the boards.
5. Use a dowelling jig to drill the holes at a consistent depth indexed from the same face of each board.
6. Drill the hole. If you run out of depth with the drill bit, remove the jig and continue drilling until you exit. Alternatively, drill from the other edge of the board using the dowelling jig.

Yes, it requires three simple tools to layout and drill (apart from a drill), but we are not talking about major expensive items and they have other uses after this job.

I would also recommend using the next size drill bit up. Maybe even two sizes. A snug fit for the threaded rod is not needed for this job and it will allow a little wriggle room.

Also, practice the technique on some scraps first if you can.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markharrison

This is certainly doable. Here is how I would do it.

1. Set the boards up in glue up layout with the edges butted together. If you have or can borrow a clamp to hold them together, I would recommend using it.
2. Mark the boards with a line across the width of the boards where you want the holes for the threaded rod to pass through with a framing square.
3. Separate the boards.
4. Using a square, mark a line down the edges of the boards.
5. Use a dowelling jig to drill the holes at a consistent depth indexed from the same face of each board.
6. Drill the hole. If you run out of depth with the drill bit, remove the jig and continue drilling until you exit. Alternatively, drill from the other edge of the board using the dowelling jig.

Yes, it requires three simple tools to layout and drill (apart from a drill), but we are not talking about major expensive items and they have other uses after this job.

I would also recommend using the next size drill bit up. Maybe even two sizes. A snug fit for the threaded rod is not needed for this job and it will allow a little wriggle room.

Also, practice the technique on some scraps first if you can.

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I pretty much did what you suggested EXCEPT item 2 with the framing square line. I think that is where I went wrong as I measured from one end, marked and then used a square to get the drill point the holes were little off. This answers my query but I will double up with the spray can idea as well. Thanks Gents.

It's probably not too hard to get a hold of a 500mm+ auger bit if you want to go quick and lazy, but probably not the cheapest option either. Actually, looking online, the big green shed sells such augers for around $50 bucks, which could be a pretty hassle free solution and you get to keep the auger at the end of it!

In which case I'd,

- Lay blocks out, glue and clamp them.
- Wait 24 hours
- Lay out a piece of paper under the block.
- Make a line square to it's face away from the face in line with where you plan to drill
- Clamp the block down somehow so it can't move relative to your square line
- Line up the auger by eye along the line and drill.


The auger can do the whole hole at once, so you don't have to worry about being out by a mm or two.

Just a suggestion.