Printable View
I bought the miter5000 sled to go on my new sawstop tablesaw. The instructions suggest for left hand tilt saws (like mine) the sled should go on the RHS of the blade. But if I do that, I need to totally remove the rip fence to use the sled. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...59dffae331.jpg
Seems a bit crazy to me. Surely many Incra miter5000 users would also use a ts-Ls rip fence?
Anyone else got this combo?
Trav
Hi Trav
There aren't many Mitre 5000's in use in OZ, so I'm not sure if anybody has faced your situation on a SawStop, I will ask the question of the guys in Texas.
My first reaction was that having the mitre sled on the opposite side from the tilt of the blade would be to avoid cutting into the mitre fence when the blade is tilted. i.e. the blade tilts away from the fence. If, as I suspect 99% of your cross cuts & mitres are not compound cuts but made with the saw blade vertical it shouldn't be an issue. A simple warning label near the tilt wheel on the saw should be enough of a prompt to avoid disasters.
It is surprising how many replacement fences we sell to people who forget to check that the fence is clear of the blade all the way through the cut.
I hope this helps?
Regards
Grahame
Thanks Grahame. Yes, you're probably right. And I don't do many compound mitres. If I need to I could just add a sacrificial fence. But that seems like a smaller problem than not fitting while the fence is in place. Thanks again. Trav
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hi Trav
I would have thought moving the mitre gauge to the left of the blade would have allowed enough room for the fence to stay in place?
Regards
Grahame
Hi again
As promised here is the reply received from Perry at Incra in Texas
Grahame,
I can see that the customer's tablesaw is a left tilt. The conventional wisdom is that when crosscutting with a blade tilt, you will want your miter gauge on the side away from the tilt. This tilts the blade away from the fence and the operator's hands, (always the safe bet). In this case that means putting it on the right side and with many of the 30-32" Range fence systems (including the Incra) the customer will have to remove the fence to crosscut
Since many of our customers purchase the Miter5000 to help support and crosscut large pieces of plywood, the extra table space to the right of the blade is often favored for support but again the rip fence would have to come off. You are correct that if you don't intend on tilting the blade for any cuts, that placing the miter gauge on the left side is an option that does not require removing the fence, however, there is no additional table support for longer pieces.
The Optional MITER5000RPANEL is a replacement drop panel that allows the Miter5000 to be set up for zero clearance on both sides of the blade. Shorter versions of the Flip Fence are a good option if most of the work done is with smaller lengths of stock.
Perry
I hope this helps your set-up dilemma? BTW we have the MITER5000RPANEL in stock.
Regards
Thanks Grahame
That's helpful and confirms my thinking. I think I will keep it on the left of the blade for the moment as it means I can leave the fence in place. If I need to do a compound mitre cut then I can add a sacrificial fence.
Thanks again.
Trav
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thought I'd post a follow up to this thread now that I've been using the Incra 500 for a while. A mini review if you like.
The sled is great. I feel very confident crosscutting with it and cutting at almost any primary angle. Like any mitre gauge you need to be careful about positioning the fence when you change angles - I nicked the very end of my fence when it's the sawstop and destroyed a blade and cartridge in one of my first cuts. It's super accurate and very repeatable - exactly what you need in a sled/mitre gauge. It has a telescopic fence with a flip stop that works really well.
On the downside, it's is big and awkward, I really need to find somewhere better to store it when it's not in use. Much the same for any serious crosscut sled. I can feel a new table saw cabinet coming on...
I know you can bevel cut with it, but I don't. And you can't use it with a dado blade unless you buy another sacrificial board to sit on the other side of the blade. But then you can't adjust it to have a zero clearance as the width of the dado varies.
In the end, I bought another Incra gauge that I've fitted with a sacrificial fence. I'm using this for both the dado and other compound cuts (not that I make many).
Overall, I'm happy with it, but not sure I'd buy it again. It's good, but expensive. I'd probably make a straight crosscut sled and then use a more good Incra mitre gauge for all the other cuts. But now that I've got it, I won't be selling.
Hope this is helpful to others contemplating the incra500.
Trav