Sistering on rafter and truss tails

Newbie here. done lots of reading but need advice from those in the know.
Building a new house as first time ob and just told by truss supplier my exposed truss tails will be supplied as stick timber not spliced to top chord so I have to sister them in on site - all 192 of them!
Was going exposed hardwood tails but wife now wants painted tails - hamptons look. My only option in DPR profile is to use a pre-primed h3 pine in a 90x42 and fix 1.8m lengths alongside the 90x35 mgp10 top chord with batten screws to give me a 600 tail.
The layout was also wrong as I need symmetrical trusses given the tails will be exposed and the truss supplier had different centres. Ideally the centres should be the same - 600 or thereabouts.
My question is does anyone have experience doing this? Is the labour going to kill the budget?
I was thinking I could pre order the 90x42 cut to 1.8 and do plumb cut ready for facia then pre-paint. I'd get the carpenters to set one each end- run a string line then fix each tail flush to that. My truss supplier would need to move first truss 42mm to accomodate sistered tail but not sure if the corners (creepers?) would give me tails over corners.
Am I heading for a budget and logistical nightmare?
Thanks
Stephen


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Welcome to the forum Stephen. I can't help but I'm sure someone will be along to give you a hand.

Ross

Welcome to a top forum Stephen. I can't answer you query either, I'm more of a metal butcher and wood turner, but DaveTTC, would be able to answer that question as he's a carpenter, hopefully he'll see your request. Will we get to see a WIP (Work In Progress) report on the house build?
Kryn

You're on the money with precutting, one either end and setting to a string line. When precutting make sure to paint the fresh cut ends...
Where the trusses are spaced unevenly, we usually run a noggin at the 1200 mark, then you can nail the tails where required (does that make sense?)
Where the hips and creepers are. Best bet is to run them through long, then cut them to a string line later.

As far as cost goes, how long is a piece of string? If it's the look you're after then that's how much it'll cost. It is a little time consuming, but will look good once finished

Personally I would go back to the truss maker and tell him to order a pack of H3 90x35 P10 and cut the top cords from that. It's no different from when the clients down here demand T2 blue treated p10/12 to be used in their houses.

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Originally Posted by Kuffy

Personally I would go back to the truss maker and tell him to order a pack of H3 90x35 P10 and cut the top cords from that. It's no different from when the clients down here demand T2 blue treated p10/12 to be used in their houses.

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That's where the cost would start adding up. The top chord could be 14 m long or something...ive heard those truss mob chippys aren't much chop to trust them to get that right.....And you're always looking for the easy way out :p

Thanks all for the replies.
Kuffy I've tried to find a 90x 35 profile but need it smooth - not laser cut, otherwise it will look ordinary. The only product I could find is the design pine and it comes in a 90x30 or 90x42. While the 42 is more money I have a verandah rafter in 138x 42 and I plan on cutting the tail back to 90 after the birds mouth cut so that will give me a uniform 90x 42 tail all the way around on trusses and rafters.
Gabriel that is good a tip about the hips - couldn't see how I'd be able to pre-cut everything and not bugger it up somehow.
I've been told I'm doing it all the wrong way round as I'm working on the verandah posts and beams and will pre-cut the rafters in my shed so I can just bolt all together on site before the chippies put the frame and trusses up. Fingers crossed the frame will line up with it!
Will post some pics of progress - just a slab now and trying to find a way to cut a 200 deep slot in my 200x200 iron bark posts


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what are the dimensions of the slot as you could get a Granberg Mini Mill II Chain Saw Mill & Edger to cut your vertical slots. Just advance the jig a chain width and a half to cut out the wast then break out the rubbish with a pry bar and clean the bottom of the trench up with a hammer and chisel.
Wish I was closer to help you out with your posts and other joinery.