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Hello, is there anyone that can share some tips and advice on working with veneer ( Using Jarrah sheets ) just your general help like: glues, irons, clamping, best base to stick it to, just that sort stuff. Also the do not do's. And the inlays there only thin so what's the best method for doing a recess using them in a piece of wood (Jarrah panels) for borders, also using them with veneer, is there any tricks to know? Cheers thanks in advance Andy
Huge topic here. Might pay to look at some of the videos and tutorials on Fine Woodworking etc
I use MDF substrate, epoxy Techniglue rolled quite thin, and a vacuum press with melamine cauls either side of the lid to press the veneer.
I drop them into a rebate cut around the top of the box, and then cover any gaps by putting stringing or banding around the outer perimeter of the lid covering the join line.
Hope this helps
Andy,
As Dengue says, big topic.
As a starting point I'd recommend youTube. Search for Matt Furjanic of InlayBanding.com - he has a series there on making a walnut box with a veneered and inlaid top. Easy to follow. If you're new to boxmaking generally I suggest Doug Stowe's videos - very clear and simple.
Also YouTube, Andrew Crawford has a couple of videos on how to inlay the banding. Dozens of others on YouTube.
For substrate I normally use decent ply bought from Plyco, but MDF is good too. Probably about the same in ease of use. I'd be interested in other forum members' views on this.
Glue: I use Titebond II for flat surfaces on ply. Curved surfaces I use urea formaldehyde as it gives a ridgid joint. Epoxy is good, too, especially for MDF.
For flat pressing such as box tops you can use thick MDF cauls above and below the top to create a flat sandwich, i.e. Top caul, carpet tile or cork (my preference is cork tile)' waxed paper (waxed side towards the veneer so any escapee glue doesn't stick) then veneer, glue, substrate, glue, veneer, waxed paper, carpet or cork, bottom thick MDF caul. LOTS of clamps (see Matt Furjanic's videos). I have a very heavy book press which does a good job, but if I just use clamps it is 9 clamps to one top - eight around the outside and one in the centre. The carpet tile or cork is to provide pressure across the whole surface just in case everything is not dead flat.
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Curved pressing I use a vacuum bag.
Few tips:
ALWAYS put veneer on both sides of a lid (unless the substrate is extremely thick) or it will look like a banana when it dries.
A veneer saw is very useful for cutting brittle veneers. Takes a bit of getting used to but worth persevering. Makes a better cut than a scalpel on tricky veneers in my opinion.
Otherwise, cut veneers with a very sharp blade such as a scalpel or razor knife.
Joining veneers (e.g. Bookmatching) requires very crisp and straight edges. Again, Andrew Crawford has a short Youtube video on this using a shooting sander.
A small paint roller works well to spread glue. I use a wallpaper seam roller (hard flat rubber surface) as it doesn't suck up the glue.
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I leave the panels clamped up overnight. DO NOT leave them clamped up for several days as there is a high chance of the veneer coming out mouldy. Ask me how I know....
A card scraper is your best friend for levelling inlay banding once it is in place. Keep the main part of the scraper over the lid of the box. If you approach from the outside edge you are more likely to round over the edge.
Attachment 419565
Cutting channels for inlay banding can be done a number of ways. I either use the router table and a downcut bit, or, if the banding width is a bit non-standard I use a Proxxon (like a Dremel) in a Microfence plunge base with micro-adjustable fence. This is by far the most accurate method (in my workshop) for making pinpoint-accurate inlay channels (https://microfence.com).
Accuracy in cutting and trimming the mitres on inlay banding is crucial to getting crisp corners. I generally cut a little oversize then trim using a 45 degree jig on my disc sander.
Andy, this just scratches the surface of the topic, and for every way I do something there are many alternatives. Best way is to jump in and try doing it.
Happy veneering,
Brian
Well said, homey, this would be very helpful
Brian, thanks for that and your time, most appreciated