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I've got a small bunch of kangaroo leather sheet...2ish mm thick, and quite soft...that I'm thinking might be useful as a strop (wood mounted)
Too thin? Too soft?
And if not, does it go smooth side up? (Assuming so, but thought I'd better check ;) )
This would be a new thing being added to the sharpening regime...or at least back polishing.
My strop is also kangaroo leather, but mine is only about 0.7-1.0mm thick depending on where I measure. It is glued to a MDF backing and I find it to be quite good and firm. I don't know if 2mm will be too thick or squishy..suck it and see?
One ocular sucking coming up :D
Thanks Kuffy :)
I used horse butt leather for many years. Now I much prefer green compound rubbed on flat, planed hardwood (Tassie Oak) or MDF. Less chance of dubbing, and just replace when worn.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Derek,Quote:
Originally Posted by derekcohen
I'm intrigued that you are stropping using green compound. If I recall from one of your previous posts, you are using the Spyderco ultra fine stone. That is about 2-3 microns. But green compound is at best around 40 microns and has particles much larger. So, if you are honing to a good final edge on the stone, you would only be damaging it by stropping like that.
I gave up stropping and have gone to final hone & touching up on a Shapton 16000 grit glass stone for chisels and plane blades. I think stropping with compound might work well for knives, where a serrated edge can be a benefit.
I have roo leather strops glued to MDF with green compound for keeping chisels going a bit longer between proper sharpenings....but its tail leather not just the normal hide. Some guy on fleabay was selling it. I'd say the rest of a roo hide is too soft - they make shoes out of it, precisely because its softer than cow but still quite hard wearing.
I use deer skin. It doesnt have directional grain as other leathers do.
Hey again,
A few things:
- interested on the compounds being used. I'm sharpening on a 6000gt waterstone generally, but what compound comes next? To be honest I'm hoping it's a Blahnnings product because it's becoming a real hassle to order things online these days (purely for the suck up of postage)
- the adhesive used in securing the leather to the base...was thinking just a spray contact adhesive (perhaps a couple of coats on the leather) to keep it thin. Paul Sellers just uses double sided tape.
Cheers Derek. That's similar to what Paul does, but uses a leather one first. Really, really surprised me...but stropping is entirely new to me other than my cut-throat razor so I really have nfi atm.Quote:
Originally Posted by derekcohen
Hi RossQuote:
Originally Posted by RossM
Spyderco may be 2-3 microns, but Lee Valley green compound (from Carbatec) is 0.5 microns. I think that the shapton 16K is about 0.9 micron. The green compound does a good job of taking the edge up a notch, as well as ensuring that the wire is removed. It is a quick and easy way to rejuvinate a dulling edge.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Regarding honing compounds, this may be of interest: -
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/U...ound-W106.aspx
CrOx sold here for honing has a 0.5 micron nominal particle size. AlOx is about 0.25 micron.
It is common to buy a bar of mix. I can buy either one straight. Never anything so crude as 40u.
In medieval times, leather was a rare surface which was smooth and flat. Which side is unimportant.
In this day and time, pressure on the leather depresses the surface. That rebounds as the edge passes over.
The result rounds off the bevels to some stupid angles like 40 degrees or more.
The best carrier for honing compound is the inside surface of food box card, file folder or some such.
No, it's a myth again to need to glue it down. A dab of masking tape at one end is OK.
Leonard Lee has a gallery of Scanning Electron Microscope images to point out the facts.
All I learned was that you can't sharpen steel. 1,500 grit then hone with CrOx/AlOx is as good as steel gets.
Steels do not have the molecular structure to be sharpened beyond that.
Ceramics: yes. Flint: yes. Broken glass: yes. Diamond edges: yes. Obsidian opthalmic scalpels: yes.
I'm with you on that RV. I think people over complicate sharpening. I find I get my best results power stropping (green chrome) after around a 1500grit final stone. I quickly hand strop on pine/CrOx when I feel the edge dull slightly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robson Valley
Although I prefer the simpler steels (cheaper to buy and very easy to sharpen) I'm wondering if the newer super steels or powdered steels would benefit from a finer than 1500grit stone...or is it all marketing hype?
Yeah, go 1500 and hone with CrOx (chrome green)
If that edges performs as you hope, don't bust a gut trying to find better than best.
Look at the Scanning Electron Microscope pictures of sharpened tool steel in LL's book.
Just bluddy crude! You quickly get the impression that the feathered edges of the steels are also plastic and soft.
The most dangerous edges that I have in my kitchen are flint. I use them for cutting up raw meats.
They are sharp to a chain of molecules along the edge. Impossible to duplicate with any steel.