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I have a Triton TRA 001 set under my Kreg router table. For some time now I have had trouble with the winding mechanism of the Triton which is only happy to be wound in the "Down" direction but would only wind Up with some help from me pushing it up whilst I wound the handle. Now, it will not wind in the Up direction at all. I have removed it from the table, cleaned it but nothing helps. The winding mechanism seems to be jammed. Has anyone else had this problem and if so was there a solution???
I had the same problem with one of my Triton routers. Fine dust had built up inside the winding mechanism preventing it from operating up or down. It was a major chore to separate the plunge base from the motor body because things weren't moving as they should, but I got it done eventually by using brute force hoping that I didn't break it. I cleaned out the dust and reassembled things and she was good to go again...until I burnt out the motor. It now rests in router graveyard.
Thank you Kuffy, much appreciated.
I assume you removed the spring ?
Yes Damian, The spring was removed on set up. I am guessing, as Kuffy suggested, that fine sawdust has jammed it up but cannot see how to take it apart without special tools to clean it out.
There is a very good article written by Ray Girling about dismantling the TRA001.
Dismantling the Triton TRA001 3¼HP Router
I used to blast mine whistle clean with compressed air occasionally.
The TRA001 did tend to accumulate ultra fine dust in the most inconvenient places!
Im certain theres a post from me here talking about disassembly and cleaning.
There was a known problem with early TRA's whereby the winding worm gear was made from nylon, which distorted easily. This was replaced with a metal gear, which fixed the problem.
You should take a look to see if you have a nylon worm gear. Ray Girling's articles show how to dismantle, replace the gear and reassemble - not too difficult, I have done it. If you need to replace it the part is available from Toolsparesonline here:
http://www.toolsparesonline.com/cate...0w-330165.aspx.
One suggestion in the early days of table mounted TRA's was to remove the cap that allows access to the spring while operating under a table. The spring is fitted inside one of the plunge tubes, and removing the cap allows dust entering through the tube to flow straight out of the router body rather than slowly accumulating and clogging the system. Another option is to make and install bungs at the base end of both tubes to prevent dust getting into the tubes and accumulating.
Dismantling and reassembling is fairly straightforward with the Ray Girling document above, for a simple internal cleanup and blowout, you shouldn't need a lot of tools, screwdriver and maybe a Torx driver bit.
Thank you all for your contributions. I finally stripped the router down in an unconventional way as I could not get the base to move upwards so I couldn't get to the circlip to release the two riser tubes. I had to punch the two split pins from the base of the riser tubes and remove them by brute force with a dead-blow mallet. I found little dust in the mechanism but cleared what was there and lubricated everything with graphite powder. On assembly it all seems to work but I still have to "assist" it to rise by pushing under the router while winding the mechanism. I am now looking for a dedicated and accurate riser/router unit. If anyone has an idea I would love to hear it.
Once again, many thanks.
So do you have a nylon or metal worm gear?
There are some pretty average reviews out there on the reliability of the Triton routers, is it warranted or are people in general happy with them?
good question.... are they really as good as they're supposed to be or is there better quality out there?
I would now dismantle it the correct way and check all the mating surfaces for wear or damage. There can be a significant amount of build-up by the bearings into which the posts ride. This build-up is often so compacted that it looks like bronze, but needs removing. If you still have to assist it upwards when inverted and the spring is removed, then either there is still crap in there somewhere, the posts are no longer true, the cogs are still clogged or the worm gear is worn out. I would investigate further and would not pay good money for a raiser which will only remove the very features for which the Triton is famous - especially above-the-table bit-changing.
Tonto - there is a better router out there - look at the Festool range, then look at the price!