Sherwood wet stone sharpening

Hi all,
I have purchased a Sherwood wet stone sharpening system, I have 'set it up' according to instructions, levelled the stone with a diamond grinding attachment, squared up my chisel in the clamp, yet I am still getting a grind that appears to "scew" my chisel. Its driving me crazy!!!

Any advice, ideas or information would be much appreciated

Todd

something is still not square ! Can you take pics of stone faces and tool rest squareness?

Hi and welcome to the forum,
The guide bar and stone surface should be in the same plane as the dresser is guided by the guide bar. The other variable is the angle the chisel is in the sliding clamp. As a new bevel starts to appear you will see if its is cutting strait or not. Looking at the facet being created on the steel surface not the chisel edge. Adjust the chisel angle side to side until you see the bevel squarish across the steel. My sharpener is a sheppach and I soon found squareness is not to be expected you have to develop technique to get there. Get an old chisel and play around a bit.
Regards
John

If you have levelled the stone and squared it to the tool rest, the squareness of the grind may still be affected by the manner in which the tool holder grips the blade. Old version of the Tormek, which may still be employed by the Sherwood and oether knock-offs, had a holder which registered the front of the blade. That is a problem which is easily fixed by using later versions of the Tormek tool holder, which register from the back of the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the reply Poundy, though 'm not exactly sure how to achieve this. Ideas?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by orraloon

Hi and welcome to the forum,
The guide bar and stone surface should be in the same plane as the dresser is guided by the guide bar. The other variable is the angle the chisel is in the sliding clamp. As a new bevel starts to appear you will see if its is cutting strait or not. Looking at the facet being created on the steel surface not the chisel edge. Adjust the chisel angle side to side until you see the bevel squarish across the steel. My sharpener is a sheppach and I soon found squareness is not to be expected you have to develop technique to get there. Get an old chisel and play around a bit.
Regards
John

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Thanks Orraloon, I have used the diamond dressing stone on the bar to level the stone. I guess I just feel after spending so much cash on this thing, I shouldn't have to make manual; adjustments to get the thing to work properly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by derekcohen

If you have levelled the stone and squared it to the tool rest, the squareness of the grind may still be affected by the manner in which the tool holder grips the blade. Old version of the Tormek, which may still be employed by the Sherwood and oether knock-offs, had a holder which registered the front of the blade. That is a problem which is easily fixed by using later versions of the Tormek tool holder, which register from the back of the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

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When you say register the blade, are you referring to squaring the chisel in the tool holder itself? id so, is there any way of fixing modifying this on a repeatable manner. I'm not keen on the idea of having to manually adjust the chisel for squareness every-time I sharpen, this is both tiresome and not replicatable. cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shfti

Thanks Orraloon, I have used the diamond dressing stone on the bar to level the stone. I guess I just feel after spending so much cash on this thing, I shouldn't have to make manual; adjustments to get the thing to work properly.

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That is the nature of the beast. These machines do not work without tuning, which is constant. Even the Tormek needs surfacing and levelling frequently. This is one of the advantages of a CBN wheel (it does not wear).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Shfti,
I have purchased a Sheppach wetstone sharpener and have noticed a similar tendency.
I find if tighten the locking screw closest to the registration face of the jig fully and then vary the tension on the other screw it can alter the angle of the grind slightly.
As mentioned by someone else , it takes time to get used to the way these things like to be set up.
I h hope that makes sense and helps out.
( I wish I had bought the Sherwood!)
Regards
Brian

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