Dovetail Jointing.

Just returned to woodwork, new to Table Routing.
I am stuck on true Dovetailing on one of these.
Can't stretch to an expensive jig that will seldomly be used.
I've watched a few videos on YouTube etc. but still puzzled. :?

Can anyone advise me about:

• The need for different Pin and Tail bits? I've seen videos where this is the case but my bit sets only have one dovetail bit of each size.
• A home made Jig/Sled that I can construct from scratch?
• I don't mind cutting Pins/Tails one by one and am happy to make it project specific if need be.

Any help gratefully anticipated.

Cut the dovetails on the router table and cut the pins by hand. There are relatively cheap dovetail jigs along the lines of a Gifkins, but, like the Gifkins, you can only cut through dovetails and a single spacing with each template. I've never seen a homemade dovetail jig for the router table. This is probably due to the level of precision required to get an acceptable result.

I quite like this one YouTube

"I've never seen a homemade dovetail jig for the router table. This is probably due to the level of precision required to get an acceptable result."

Here is one.

YouTube


Warren

thanks for posting your work Warren. Looks interesting. Hopefully you'll get a few new watches and subscribers out of the post as well.

Regarding seperate tail and pin bits; these are only needed on through dovetails. Most router bit sets come with a dovetail bit, but they are only suitable for half-blind dovetails. This is because they have a very steep 14 degree angle which lends itself to being used to cut both the pin and the tail. Through dovetails are cut at a much shallower angle and look MUCH better.

Homemade dovetail jigs have been around for donkeys years, keep an eye out for a Stots Dovetail Template Master. This was a jig for making jigs!

I came across a proper dovetail machine (not a gig) years ago at the auctions for $80:D. Does the basic -even dovetails. However proper hand cut dovetails look far better and should be that little bit stronger. Decent marking gauge and maybe band-saw followed by fine chisels or simply a GOOD small handsaw (I have used a Gents saw - little tenon saw & a Japanese style pull saw) with care, works well for good projects. Suggest cutting one part of the joint and then marking the other (with a knife -pencil won't do )
By the way -only used the machine for 2 paying jobs -they were impressed - chipboard furniture people. Still will use it, but not for boxes or other visible joins - leave it for the draws.
Must work out the size required to use this for Box joints. The machine is similar to the jigs for routers, but once set up will cut both joints from the same setting. Sort of swing arm with a 1 hp motor and the sort of dovetail jig you except for a router, but gan do both cuts from the same setting. Literally could do hundreds of drawers etc. without touching it. BUT they are obviously machine cut.

The absolute ultimate in jigs is the Leigh. It does my head in though.

I've resorted to using the Incra setup. Easy peasy and super dooper accurate. Bit exxy on the price though.

There is this accurate home made setup by William Ng YouTube

For hand made, this video is illuminating YouTube

Over the next year Ill be doing a LOT of handmade dovetails for the boxes. Looking forward to it. :D

Aeolus,

Have a look at eBay UK. They currently have quite a few jigs available. Trend, Leigh etc. Prices from 30 pounds up. Search for “dovetail jig”.

Brian

Might not be relevant, but I've decided to sell my Leigh Dovetail jig - Its the D4R with all now cutters and accessories. It will include the holder for the Festool 1400 router.

It is unused.

I'll put it up by Monday 9 Oct.

Are you still going to sell your D4R, If so I would be interested.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ratso

Are you still going to sell your D4R, If so I would be interested.

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I am. I'll send you an message. Im pretty straight forward.