Tapered finger bit

I'm just wondering what this bit is called and where I can buy one.

Also, as you can see, this is done across the face of end-to-end joints, and I'm wondering how to do this with a router - just offset it repeatedly?

I'm thinking that this can potentially be an elegant solution to butchers block style glue ups with short boards while hiding the end-to-end joints. Here, there is a stark contrast between timbers but elsewhere on the board the joints are really hard to see, as the grain aligns mostly edge to edge.

Attachment 458851

Typically known as Finger jointed boards. You can buy router bits to do it.

https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...r-bit-assembly

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Originally Posted by Acco

Typically known as Finger jointed boards. You can buy router bits to do it.

https://www.timbecon.com.au/routing/...r-bit-assembly

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The issue I see with that one is that the top cutter isn't tapered. This is fine for cutting the edge where the board is thinner than the bit, but cutting the face will require multiple cuts, each offset by the length of the bit. There, the square cutter at the end will not produce a tapered finger.

edit: are each of the cutters removable?

You can get them to different thicknesses, that link was just an example. Think the one I have will do up to 50mm, bought it years ago but still haven’t used it, was waiting for the timber to dry and it’s well and truly dry now, but it’s at the bottom and at the back of the stack now :doh:

These bits are not designed to be run in the orientation shown in your example, they are run at 90 degrees to the cut shown in your example. It may be possible to use a bit to cut in the orientation of the example and it may be possible to cut boards of a width of slightly over twice the cutting length of the bit. This would be dependent on the length of protrusion of the bit through the router base and, of course, a high level of accuracy with your setup would be required since you would need to feed both sides of the stock past the bit to achieve the necessary width.

See this video, it might help to explain what I'm trying to say as reading back over what I've written I suspect it's probably as clear as mud. :doh:
YouTube

The joint in your example has been cut by a machine in a large factory and is not generally seen in home/small shop situations.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aldav

These bits are not designed to be run in the orientation shown in your example, they are run at 90 degrees to the cut shown in your example. It may be possible to use a bit to cut in the orientation of the example and it may be possible to cut boards of a width of slightly over twice the cutting length of the bit. This would be dependent on the length of protrusion of the bit through the router base and, of course, a high level of accuracy with your setup would be required since you would need to feed both sides of the stock past the bit to achieve the necessary width.

See this video, it might help to explain what I'm trying to say as reading back over what I've written I suspect it's probably as clear as mud. :doh:
YouTube

The joint in your example has been cut by a machine in a large factory and is not generally seen in home/small shop situations.

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nah, I get that, and I was just wondering how it could be done. It seems doable with a horizontal jig and repeatedly offsetting by the length of the bit. If it works it's certainly worth it because it makes short boards almost indistinguisable from long boards

edit: I see what you mean. you can't repeatedly offset it because the tip only protrudes so far

Finger Joint Bit - Carbide Tipped - Carbitool

Australian made not cheap for the whole 5 fingered set however flexible purchase option to buy the arbor then add the required fingers to flesh out the width you need.
I like the options here ,i don't have one but would float for this if I needed one seeing how its Oz product.