How to treat countersunk yellow zinc screw heads in a pine timber window sill

Hi

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My question is around the pine sill, you can see the slightly countersunk screws, these are not galvanized, they're yellow zink like gyprock screws.

I had been told a combination of ,



just spackfilla straight in now and then prime

vs
Prime then topping compound then sand, prime again, then top coats

but then I have seem forums mentioning that when the water from a water based primer or water in any gypsum type topping compound like spackfilla touches them they can rust.

So what filler should I use, wood filler, single pack or two pack,
what primer, I was thinking Zinnser Coverstain

Their the same as used for plasterboard and are set over with water based base coat and top coat, no issues, Just use Timber mate but make sure it is well pressed in and leaving a slight dome to sand off when dry.

My experience is you'll have infinitely more trouble with that effing big knot than be worried about the screw. I never managed to stop pine knot bleed through a painted finish. I've been told a shellac coat will work. For the last pine door I made I excavated all knots and filled with either timber plugs or builders bog.

You don’t need to take any specific precautions for finishing over the screw, keep in mind that an untreated steel nail would often be used in this situation so you already have a superior protection coating on your fixing

Fuzzie is right, the not is your recurring problem, dig out 6mm deep, fill with builders bog

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Originally Posted by rwbuild

Fuzzie is right, the not is your recurring problem, dig out 6mm deep, fill with builders bog

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Thanks guys, RWbuild, which do you prefer builders bog or your first post mentioned a different product being Timbermate single pack?


I did also email a tech support, it will be interesting to see what they say

small holes ie: screws / nails or minor imperfections, timbermate. For large holes imperfections, builders bog

There are lots of different fillers on the market these days. Different brands of bog have been around for a long time. They are some sort of poly-something set off by an activator that sets quite hard and relatively fast so you can keep working. Other options exist like water putty. For just one knot you might be best off buying one of the bogs in the smaller Selleys Plastibond packaging.

cheers, i have an old tub , the small one of timbermate, maybe 4 years old, if a small bit of water added to it brings it to the usual putty texture do you think thats fine?

I suspect that the other additives in it will not be up to standard, given that its not a very expensive product I would strongly recommend a new container. A reputable paint supplier with real industry knowledge (not someone who works in a green shed) would be able to give you a definitive answer

Gday rwbuild, Timbermate actually said to go ahead and use the old tub of Timbermate and on their site under the FAQ they say the life is indefinate. I opened it and it looked and smelt like a new tub.

So I used that.

Interestingly some places recommended to prime the situation first and then use spackle and then prime again.

https://www.rustoleum.com.au/~/media...ralia_TDS.ashx

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Countersink exposed nail heads, spot prime and fill all nail holes and gouges with spackling compound. Wire brush rusty surfaces.

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