Siegley transitional plane

Hi, I receives this transitional plane due to generosity of Eskimo. Thanks a lot again for that one.

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I took it apart and except the missing lateral adjuster everything was there and in ok condition, but in need of some clean up, rust removal and new paint on the black parts.

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The base had a "26" embossed underneath and on the iron you can just make out the "SsS" for Stanley steel Siegley.

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You can find some info here: The Valley Woodworker: S s S or Stanley? And the differences would be....

According to this this plane was made somewhere between 1901 and 1927 during the time Siegley was owned by Stanley and manufactured planes according to Stanley design. This plane is 15" long and as an iron of about 2 1/8" wide. That would make it a #27 equivalent.



Anyway, I cleaned everything up and repainted the black items. The wooden parts I first cleaned with methylated spirits and then gave them a coat with BLO and paste wax. The main body however I had to slightly plane down to get rid of the blackish stained parts and to flatten the sole. I think the plane might have had an accident with some oil spillage or so. Therefore the stained side.

Here is everything nice and clean ready for assembly. Blade sharpened as well.

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And here it is back together and works in principle.

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Well I said works in principle, because after only a few strokes it clogs up and the shavings are like a harmonica.

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First I thought it's the chipbreaker, but every time I pull it out it is clean and nothing stuck underneath. What can be the reason? My next suspect is the lever cap. Can that be? Or what else should I check?


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Looking good, well done!

The choking could be a few things; see if these work:

Firstly, is the cap iron sitting square across the iron with zero gap? You might need to hone the area where it contacts the iron.

Next, is the cap iron polished at the end where it touches the iron? You want the shavings to simply glide over the hump. A steep 60-ish degree effective angle where it touches the iron may be beneficial.

You may want to move the cap iron down a bit also, you only want around 1/2mm of blade projecting past the end of the cap iron.

If none of the above make any difference then I would be looking at the lever cap; the end should be pressing on the hump of the cap iron without overhanging it otherwise shavings could be getting jammed under it.

The last wild card would be to put a camber on the iron, it might possibly be that the mouth and escapement are slightly too narrow and the shavings are catching on the sides. A cambered iron would produce slightly narrower shavings with thinner edges that don’t catch.

See if any of that works for you.

move the cap iron back a bit farther away from the blade edge (or take a thinner shaving)

hey...thats mine....can you now send it back to me...lol

Great work Cklett. Hope you enjoy using it.

No way, eskimo. That one wants to stay here. We had some good playtime today [emoji16]

Thanks guys for the advise. I had an other look at the chipbreaker and reworked it. It actually had 2 tiny kinks in it. I ground them out and polished as you said. And it worked much much better. I did some edge planing to see where on the blade still are issues. And found that it started always on the left corner.

I then also had a look at the lever cap. And it actually had still some crud and old paint underneath. So I ran the back of the bottom edge over the stone to flatten it as well. I thought that maybe it is not evenly pressing on the chipbreaker.

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Now it works quite well. A little further optimisation on the chipbreaker maybe. Still a tiny bit of light is coming through on the left and right corner.

Again learned something new. I love it. Thanks guys.

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