Ametalin 4 wrap ok in new shed build

Hi Guys,
Can anyone help?
I'm (finally) getting a new metal framed shed built and intending to wrap with Ametalin 4 on the outside before the corrugated sheeting goes up. Will this be a problem with installing the windows and doors (they have 'fins', not reveals)? I'm not sure if the windows and doors get screwed down to the metal frames with the Ametalin sandwiched between the fins and the frames - whether this will pose a problem with flashing. When the Ametalin is compressed it goes down to about 1mm, otherwise it's 4mm thick.
I'd really appreciate your help.
Many thanks in advance.

We used Kingspan Insudshed 50 - from your description, it sounds like the same stuff.

Yes it will compress where the purlins are, that is no problem.

All you do where the windows and doors are is place the material up to the edge, and then seal it off against the frame later (Ametalin make an awesome tape for this: Ametalin 48mm x 50m Insulation And Ducting Tape | Bunnings Warehouse - that stuff will stick water to ice, I swear!).

Enjoy your build - you can see how ours looks from the inside in a couple of photos here: Midnight's Shed

THANK YOU SO MUCH Midnight Man! This is so helpful.

Would you mind taking a quick look at these diagrams just so I'm clear how to use the wrap while installing the windows and doors? If anythings not clear, please let me know. I'm not sure if I should be using process No.1 or No.2.


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Sorry they're sidewards - not sure how to flip. Thanks again for your help - I really appreciate it!

Hey Clare,

I can see your diagrams, but there are a few things I'm not quite clear on.

Any chance you can take a photo of a window please, from outside, inside, and also top-down showing the fins and frame? I'm also assuming the window will actually just be placed in an area of the colorbond cladding, and not attached to the structure (if otherwise, please explain and give a photo if you can).

Many thanks!

Thanks so much for replying Midnight Man! This is so kind of you.

Here are some images the shed ppl supplied to describe how 'finned' windows work. As you can see there are no reveals, and the fins are screwed directly into the metal framing. I'm unclear if I should have the Ametalin between this frame and the fins, or whether this won't work. The shed company just replied "this material is intended for stud walls" - which I'm not all together convinced about. My understanding is that it's designed for metal framed walls - especially food production warehouses. Anyway, I'd be really appreciative if you can give me some clarity.

The Ametalin tech didn't know either by the way.

This image shows the 'fin' screwed directly to the frame:
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This image shows the flashing across the top
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This is how the window will look from the inside (I will be creating a 90 x45 stud wall to insulate with batts after the metal structure is built in the same way you did :) - thanks so much for that awesome construction idea!!)
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This is with the tin on (sorry it's sidewards again). I'm concerned that where the fins get screwed down will cause a 'cushion' sort of effect - where the metal doesn't lie completely flat. If this is the case, the flashing will be wavy surely and allow rain to get in. The Ametalin compresses down to 1mm when screwed - but the 'unscrewed' areas between the screws might cushion out - like a buttoned pillow or lounge if you get what I mean. What do you think?
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Thanks again for your time Midnight Man.

I'm hopeless with editing pictures, but I hope the following makes it clear.

And let's just say I was talking only about the left edge of this window - but in reality, you'd use the same methodology on all edges.

The red shaded area in the picture below shows the area I would place the Ametalin wrap over - and it would go on the outside of the frame section of the window that is indicated by the blue arrow.

I would then, from the outside of the shed, use your tape to tape the edge of the tape to the window frame, and yes, the edge of the tape will wrap around the inside of the 90 degree angle formed by the frame. I would then go inside the shed, and tape wherever possible the frame to the Ametalin wrap.

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I would also strongly recommend that any joins you have in your wrap get taped from both sides (inside and outside). Also - and this is probably obvious, and you know it already, but make sure you install this stuff the right way around (it's normally printed, and/or non-silver side facing out).

We followed this process here 2 years ago, and we have had no condensation inside the shed whatsoever, this over 2 winters that are guaranteed to generate it inside a shed (we have a smaller shed we never did this with, and it's had condensation inside on many mornings).

I understand what you're saying with the "pillow" effect in your post - this is a non issue to my mind, in this case, the Ametalin wrap will be the one that will move most, as the Colorbond is more rigid than it is.

As far as water ingress is concerned, all I can say is that we didn't have a problem, with the tape applied in the manner I've shown, and particularly as it wraps around the 90 degree and comes out along the frame, it's prevented any water ingress for us. If you have concerns, then perhaps mount one window, and tape up as noted - and before continuing, test with a water hose at various angles and pressures - I would actually be really interested to hear how you go with that if you try it out!

Hope this helps!

They look like the same windows I have. I installed 8 of them when I built the shed 6 years ago but only got around to installing the last one last week. Here’s how I did it...

Shed cladding completed in custom orb with 5 mm foil/foam lining (probably same as you).
Marked window size on lining and cut out 10 mm oversize.
Cut out window opening in cladding with angle grinder to suit window size.
Installed window from inside and fixed with tek screws on each corner.
Installed wooden 100 x 45 (ripped from 120x45) stud on either side of window flush with frame and fixed to girt top and bottom.
Installed noggin (?) on top and bottom of window flush with frame and fixed to studs.
Removed corner tek screws and screwed to wooden frame.
Sealed on sides with silicone.
Clip on frame will cover the silicone mess unless you look closely.


The windows I did before have been perfect. No leaks, open smoothly. Very happy.

Leigh

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This is SO helpful, thank you Midnight Man!!
I'll go with this method because it makes most sense and let you know how I get on.

Cheers - and keep safe,
Clare.

Thanks so much Ambrosia.
That obviously functions really well too. Looks neat inside!
Cheers, and keep safe.