Switch gear for Bandsaws

Hi, I am looking into making up my own motor switch (pedal) with an isolation toggle switch. This means the toggle (could also be a mushroom style twist switch) needs to be ON to be able to power the pedal switch which then powers the motor. I like the pedal switch as it allows for foot operation leaving your hands free to handle the piece of wood your cutting etc. Does anyone see anything wrong with the below setup?

Attachment 471209


Terminal ON-OFF 15A 250V Toggle Switch
Free Shipping 1pcs Good Quality E TEN1021 2 Pin SPST 2 Terminal ON OFF 15A 250V Toggle Switch orange|Switches| | - AliExpress

Momentary Foot Pedal Switch 15A 250V
1 PCS AC 250V 15A 1NO 1NC Momentary Treadle Pedal Foot Switch w Cable Gland TFS 402 Green|Switches| | - AliExpress

Motor or something similar - Closest match to original 3 Phase motors - 240v Single Phase 14A
2.2kw 3HP 1400rpm shaft 28mm Electric motor single phase 240v

Thanks
Charl

Can't see any point, turn on, cut piece, turn off, complete waste of time and money in my opinion.

Actually I am not 100% sure I know how this pedal switch works. I thought it might be pressed to turn it ON and then pressed again to turn it OFF. BUT it might be that you step on it to keep it ON and lift your foot off to turn it OFF?

Attachment 471210

The alternative is this industrial looking switch below. I am assuming there is no reason why it couldn't be used for single phase 240V 15A?
1pc Metal Case TBSN-315 Push Button Power Switch 3P 15A 2.2KW On-Off Lock Tend | eBay

Push Button Power Switch Three Phases Power Control Start Switch AC 380V 15A 3P 2.2KW TBSN 315|switch ac|switch switch|switch 380v - AliExpress

Part No. : TBSN-315

On-Off SP3T, with lock (Maintained)

3P 15A 2.2KW, AC120/240V

We did a risk analysis of using a pedal on a BS at work and we ended up deciding against it.
The rationale was something like, unlike a pedal on a drill press where the work is usually clamped down and at least one hand holds onto a part of the machine which helps with balance, using a bandsaw should have both hands on the workpiece to guide it bast the band, which means both feet are needed on the ground to maintain balance.

Pedals are OK for BS brakes because by then the cut is usually complete and the work is past/clear of the band.

Yeah I am with you Bob - I don't like that at all. I think I'll go the second option. So is there anything you can see within this wiring setup thats stands out that is wrong?

Also does it look like this switch is up to the task? What would the wiring config go given Active, Neutral and Earth:

Attachment 471241

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000208298996.html

That switch you show is a 3P switch and not suitable for connecting an earth. The earth wire should never be switched but hard wired to the machine and be able to make direct physical contact with the breaker box earth as soon as the machine is plugged in. Making the earth switchable can lead to all sorts of safety probs.


With my machinery I like to use a "no volt" or magnetic switches as the main switch like these
Replacement On Off Switch KJD17B 4pin 220v For Bench Saws Mag Drills Motors NEW | eBay
Attachment 471245
These switch both the active and neutral and stay off if the power fails etc.

For emergency switches I like using mushroom type switches like these
Lock Maintained Latching Emergency Stop Mushroon PushButton 660V Switches 22mm | eBay
Attachment 471246

I often use those old school toggle switches as low V switches to start stop machinery hooked up to VFDs.

Thanks Bob, I am trying to get away from the plastic look switches if I can help it - they are a major eye sore when fitted to a 100yr old machine with not a single piece of plastic anywhere. The only course of action with an out of the box suitable switch that I can see is to make it as simple as possible keeping safety in mind:

- Switch:
2019 New 1PC KLD 28A Waterproof Magnetic Switch Explosion proof Pushbutton Switches 220V IP55 Electrical Equipment|Switches| | - AliExpress or
250V 16A IP54 Start Stop Switch No Volt Release With Emergency Stop Waterproof Push Button Electromagnetic switch for machine|rocker switch circuit|switch to router cable|rocker cover - AliExpress or
1Pcs 4pin IP55 220 240V 16A Electromagnetic Push button Safety Switch for Garden Machine Electronic Power Tool Equipment KJD17|switch switch|switches for power tools|switch 16a - AliExpress or
4pin IP55 electromagnetic switch KJD17B machine tool special electromagnetic switch general KLD electromagnetic switch|Switches| | - AliExpress like the one you have suggested

- Custom metal industrial looking case - this satisfies aesthetics and and should something knock it it won't break

I'll be using a Single Phase 3HP 15A motor so need to keep that in mind in my switch selection too.

Most of my stuff is <20 years old sp I don't worry too much about aesthetics. Number one for me is usually safety (so I usually prefer plastic boxes for switch gear), then functionality/ease of use, and then maybe try for a bit of recycling.
I somethings use old blow-molded plastic power tool boxes as housings for VFDs or switch boxes, or make them out of acrylic. If the switch boxes are well located they should not get so readily be knocked.

This was the only metal (Al) box I used for switches (on my 50 year old mill) and I found this box in a skip.
This machine has two motors/VFDs buried inside the cabinet and the remotes mounted up on the side of the mill
Attachment 471255

Looks very neat and tidy! Thanks for sharing info and pics Bob - always good to see how people have solutioned their setups!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by China

Can't see any point, turn on, cut piece, turn off, complete waste of time and money in my opinion.

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Agreed. Machines need to be kept simple, particularly older ones, more authentic.

One thing that I am seeing with all iterations of your plan is that you are looking to use 15A rated switches with a motor rated at 14A. While I accept that the switches would normally have some safety factor for current capacity (typically 50-100%), the start currents for the motor can be up to 6 times rated current, admittedly only for a half second or less, but the make and break is the thing that may induce arcing and contact burning within the switch, and I suspect will significantly affect contact life.

Ideally I would consider using a high current, low voltage coil contactor (very heavy duty relay) with a suitable low voltage transformer to power the coil, and the control switching done between the transformer and contactor coil. It is quite easy to configure this arrangement to function as a magnetic switch for no volt release and to incorporate a string of e-switchs that all only need to switch 24V at 1/2A max, so switch selection and cable sizing and routing through the control switching system are way more tolerant. Contactor and transformer can be housed in a case that is befitting the antique nature of the machine, as can the control switches and e-switches.

J