Anyone used OSMO Polyx Raw on Vic Ash and care to share a few pictures?. I'm building a dining table for someone and he wants to keep as much of the light colour as possible.
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Anyone used OSMO Polyx Raw on Vic Ash and care to share a few pictures?. I'm building a dining table for someone and he wants to keep as much of the light colour as possible.
I used it on a pine table. Never again. It’s peeling in areas of high usage.
Followed the instruction exactly - even rang them up to ensure correct procedure re sanding and cleaning the surface before coating.
Attachment 473850
When I rang them re the peeling they said it was my fault as I’d done three coats and you must only do two!
Just my experience with this product.
This was with the Raw Osmo? I've done a few tables with the satin finish and no problems.
That was satin
Funny you should ask this. I just finished a dining table from recycled tax oak and used the osmo polyx satin.
I’ve used the satin before and loved it on Blackbutt timber. But I didn’t like it on the tas oak - it turned it a honey kind of colour. Ended up stripping it back and laying down shellac. But that has not handled the moisture and traffic of a dining table. So I’m here looking for alternatives that won’t change the colour too much and will handle the traffic. But not a poly or lacquer that takes a lot of effort to refinish.
Perhaps an oil?
Have you considered Livos Kunos clear 244?
I've used it on Jacaranda & Northern Silver Ash pepper mills. It does impart a slight yellowing but nowhere near the colour change experienced with using Wattyl Stylwood NC 30%. The late Neil Scobie used it extensively on his wonderful work. I'm very happy with it, particularly the ease of use, and the warm soft sheen that it has developed. I sanded to #800 on the PM's.
Pepper Mills - Minimalist Style.
KUNOS Natural Oil Sealer #244 - Livos Australia
i used Odies oil on my dinning table which is a slab of blackbutt. seems to be holding up fine so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trav
Natural, food safe,solvent free, non-toxic wood finish and stabilizer |Odie'''s Oil|
Hello lewisc.
Hard Shellac won't change the colour of the timber any more than wetting it down with water. It is extremely durable and has been used with amazing longevity on restaurant and café tables for around 12 years with people telling us it's almost like new after all that time.
Use it on table tops and all horizontal surfaces. It has a high resistance to marking from water, alcohol, heat, etc. as the surface is about as tough as a melamine bench top.
Use our White Shellac (same thing minus the hardener) for vertical surfaces like legs etc which may be subject to damage from knocks, kicks, children running rampant, etc. as it is easier to repair if needed. Both Hard and White Shellac will give the same look.
To my knowledge Hard Shellac has ever peeled, worn or delaminated in the well over 12 years that we have been making it.
Both of the above shellacs are dewaxed bleached shellac the photo's on links show as darker than they really are and the definitely won't darken the timber any more than wetting it down with water. so you won't get that yellow look.
Hope this is of some help.
Sorry for the blatant promotion of our products.... No, not really.
Cheers - Neil :U
PS: Don't bother reporting this post as blatant advertising. I'm good friends with the boss...
PPS: Hehehe... Sorry just couldn't help myself. :rotfl:
Do you use Hard Shellac straight out of the bottle or do you thin it ?
Thanks Neil
I used your hard shellac. Love it and have used it on many projects. But it hasn’t really held up in this instance. I applied 4 or so 1/8 Strength cuts, then a few 1/4 cuts. Should I be applying more?
I was going to lightly sand this weekend and recoat.
Trav
Haven't heard of -this traditional poly urethane ,water-based version or something else?
My best (favoured) finish with Hard Shellac follows:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trav
Decant half of the full strength polish out of the bottle into a glass jar and mix it with 50/50 with 100%IMS. Pour off half of that into another jar and mix 50/50 with 100%IMS.
If you're brushing it on make sure you have a really good brush. Easiest to get is an artists "Camel hair, Water-colour Mop", available at most half decant art supply shops for around $25. One inch brush is about the best readily available size. This 1" brush will hold more polish than a 5 " brush off the shelf at a paint shop or bunnies, etc.
- Couple of coats with the weakest mix (make sure all are well stirred or shaken before decanting and before use.
- Couple or 3 coats of the medium mix until you have almost what you want.
- One final slowly, purposefully applied coat of full strength. Then leave it alone.
Do not sand between coats unless you have a problem. If you have a good camel hair mop brush there should be no need to sand as there shouldn't be any witness lines/brush marks in the finish and it doesn't need to be roughed up between coats for grip like poly. It will adhere to itself.
I have a demo piece that was done this way and it looks as good today as when it was done about 12 years ago. It has been knocked from pillar to post and even had credit card receipts signed on it at shows.
First coat can be 1 or 2 but on raw timber that's really hungry you may need as many as 4 or 5 until the polish stops soaking into the surface.if ity's a big table you may be able to recoat almost immediately but don't recoat if the surface is not touch dry.
Hope this is of help.
Cheers :U