Redesign an entrance hall table

A good friend asked if I would add a drawer to an entry hall table of hers. Of course I said yes, but when I saw the table, I decided that it needed more than a drawer.


She did not ask what I had in mind, but just said said okay.


Why more? I just thought the table plain and .. well .. boring. We have been friends for most of our lives, and I could not recall even seeing this table in her entrance hall. That goes to show how forgettable it is! Okay, some of you may disagree. Everyone is entitled to their own taste. So you tell me what you think of this table, and how you would (or not) re-design it. I know what I plan to do at this stage, but there is time to be influenced. Mostly, I am interested in how you think :)


The table is solid Jarrah. The base stands 28" high and 35" x 17 1/2". The top is 3/4" thick and 36 1/4" x 18 1/2". The legs are 2" square.


This is in my entrance hall ...


https://i.postimg.cc/CxX6M7D6/3a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/zGVc16Lg/1a.jpg


The top ...


https://i.postimg.cc/HLMvrM9W/2a.jpg


The idea for the drawer is that it will be made from the front apron and be invisible. No handle. To do this, it will be necessary to pull the table apart since the apron will need to be cut up.


This is the underside of the table ...


https://i.postimg.cc/brm379pg/5a.jpg


The table is not particularly old, perhaps 40 years? The screws are slotted ...

https://i.postimg.cc/CM7PnSk8/6a.jpg

... but the corner blocks were attached with glue and brads.


https://i.postimg.cc/7hHKtW8b/7a.jpg


A plague on the house of furniture builders who attached corner blocks with brads! They shoot in and are nearly impossible to remove.


The blocks are tough and it is necessary to split them along the grain ...


https://i.postimg.cc/3RCLBHqP/8a.jpg


I managed to get out most, but not all the brads. The metal is brittle and a few remain behind ...


https://i.postimg.cc/sD2npq4N/9a.jpg


So ... thoughts on the re-design?


Regards from Perth


Derek

This looks interesting!

Is it necessary to cut up the apron? I can think of a way to fit a drawer which uses the entire apron as a false front while maintaining the overall rigidity of the frame; a sort of secret drawer as there would be no indication of its existence unless you looked underneath. I’ll sketch it out a bit later this morning.

I must admit it looks a little on the bland side but all I can see to improve it would be to cut a taper on the legs and possibly add a side bead along the edges of the aprons; I look forward to seeing what you have in mind.

Derek,

Here's my 2 cents worth !:B

The table seems to be out of proportions:

1) the table top doesn't overhang enough
2) the profile of the top's edge should be "curved" rather than square
3) the apron looks too wide and
4) the legs' taper could be accentuated.

All this can be easily fixed I'm sure and, while you are already at it, why not add maybe 3 slim drawers with contrasting timber faces - not too "contrasty" mind - one on the long side and the other two for the narrow ones? This will definitely give the piece a greater sense of being and purpose!

Now, to make sure we are one the same page, you need to understand that I have never made anything coming close to a table, nor have I pulled one apart!

Looking forward to seeing your "design"

Cheers Yvan

Certainly does look like a chunky table.

Yeah, you have my sympathy with those corner blocks. I had a similar thing last year, total PITA.

As for any re-design, personally I'd keep things simple. I won't offer any specific suggestions except to say that it needs to lose weight.

Best of luck with it.

Ok, here’s what I was thinking (views are essentially upside down because that’s how I imagined it and in keeping with your WIP photos :) )

A box section frame to give torsional rigidity and prevent the front legs from splaying. I nominally decided on 4”-ish all round just for the purposes of this drawing. This gives you a drawer width of 22” wide and 11-1/2” deep externally. The drawer is supported on a pair of blades 1/2 thick and 1” wide which would give you ample width for drawer sides and a pair of slips; I drew them stuck on the side of the carcass which is obviously rather weak but is easier to imagine.

Attachment 474695

And here is a 3D visualisation of one side showing the bits assembled. The dotted lines represent the position of the existing apron front that can be attached to the front of the drawer.

Attachment 474696

I’ve been thinking that it’s been a while since I dragged the drawing board out so this was a good excuse to do so!

Derek,

Is the intention to make an entirely new table from the timber reclaimed from knocking apart the existing one or to simply add feature to the original by keeping it's proportions mostly intact?

If making a new table I would consider reducing the leg dimensions a little and taper them. I'm having a preference for under bevel on the table tops at the present and would do that rather than a round over or some other fancy edge treatment. You might gain enough new overhang by the reduction in underframe size gained from remaking the frame with new tenon joinery.

Just my 2c worth. Have fun and I hope it mostly comes apart cleanly!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by derekcohen

A good friend asked if I would add a drawer to an entry hall table of hers. Of course I said yes, but when I saw the table, I decided that it needed more than a drawer.


She did not ask what I had in mind, but just said said okay.

The table is solid Jarrah. The base stands 28" high and 35" x 17 1/2". The top is 3/4" thick and 36 1/4" x 18 1/2". The legs are 2" square.


The idea for the drawer is that it will be made from the front apron and be invisible. No handle. To do this, it will be necessary to pull the table apart since the apron will need to be cut up.

So ... thoughts on the re-design?

---

Hi Derek

my thoughts

1. You've demolished the table. I say demolished (rather than disassembled) because having removed the corner blocks, you will likely
a) replace the blocks with Festool dominos, or mortice and tenons joints.
b) reduce the width of the aprons by the equivalent of two saw kerfs.
c) reduce the length of the front and rear aprons by the equivalent of two saw kerfs.
d) reducing the length of the front, rear and side aprons by the amount required to cut tenons will depend on your decision re M&T or dominos.

aesthetic options.
for Gawd's sake TAPER THE LEGS to something less than 2" square.
allow the top to overhang the base so that it's underside can be chamfered


get creative and inlay the top

It is so interesting - and re-assuring - how many of us see the same issues, and even come up with similar ideas.


As some recognised, I plan to pull the table apart and rebuild it with the parts.


The table top is the key. It fits the space where the hall table will live. This means that the width of the table cannot be changed. All the other dimensions must work with it.


Clearly the top is too blocky, and the depth needs to be reduced to achieve a more aesthetic proportion. This will allow the top to be re-shaped. Perhaps a gentle curve front and rear (getting rid of the rounded corners at the same time!).


There needs to be overhang to the sides and the front. To enable this, the skirting needs to be shortened front, back and sides. This is the reason I have begun dissembling the base.


The legs will be tapered, naturally.


I have an idea for the drawer. Hopefully interesting enough to add a little playfulness to the design.


Joinery? I need to work out how much the skirting must be reduced. That will decide whether I can do mortice-and-tenon joints for the legs. Otherwise it will need to be dominos.


I suspect that the current joints are M&T as the corner blocks made no difference to the rigidity of the construction. It is Really Strong. No give at all.


Now to draw it up and present the concept.


Regards from Perth


Derek

Lots of good advice here.


I'd be inclined to disassemble the entire table, and as others have suggested, perhaps use the entire apron as a drawer front. However, I generally prefer raised drawer fronts as seen in the first pic ... but that's a taste thing.


Please, at least taper the legs. I like the legs in the pic for this table; tapered with a foot.

Attachment 474943

A long time ago I made a similar table using dark wood. For relief and contrast the feet and the edge of the top were silver ash, which contrasted nicely. Unfortunately, I can't find a pic of it.

The legs below were cut from 2 inch square timber ... it is an option.

Attachment 474944Attachment 474945

As others have suggested, you need some relief on the edge of the top.

Thanks for the ideas. :) Great tables, but the style preferred by the owner is modern and minimalistic.

The front cannot be a single drawer ... unless one uses metal slides, which I avoid doing. The depth-width ratio will otherwise lead to racking.

I plan on a front drawer which will meld into the skirt. Tapered legs brought in, as a number have identified.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Attachment 475032

:oo:...

Hi Derek,

An idea for the construction of the drawer.

I am now embarrassed to say the Hall Table I built looks very similar to the one that everyone say looks crap... :) Maybe I am not the one to listen to....

The drawer could be made by ripping a small about from the top and bottom of the front apron, You would be left with the top small strip the centre wide strip and the bottom small strip. The drawer front/s would be cut from the center strip. The front apron is then re-assembled with the drawer fronts in place but not glued in. You would then have to rip the side and back aprons to the new width (2 x kerf thickness)

This is probably something that you have already considered but thought it was worth a mention just in case.

Hopefully the pics illustrate what I mean. You can still see the glue line when you look close.

Upon re-reading your original post this design doesn't allow for there to be no handle / invisible.. My mistake!! Now that it has been posted I dont believe I can delete it..

Attachment 475551 Attachment 475550 Attachment 475549

Thanks. Good thinking. I am doing something similar. I shall share this when done.

Regards from Perth

Derek