When your not using your Kanna for a period of time say 4-5 days do you tap the blade back out or leave it in place.
Steven
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When your not using your Kanna for a period of time say 4-5 days do you tap the blade back out or leave it in place.
Steven
I tap the edge back just until it is beneath the bottom surface. That leaves the edge protected, but things are still snug enough to not fall out when handling or moving the kanna. It also seems to keep the wood from getting stressed - so no loosening up or cracks developing over time.
Thanks for the info..Very helpful. If I could ask for a contact as well. Where can I buy a reasonable rebate plane both left and right sided.
So far I have only found $625 Aust dollars for a pair. The biggest issue here is knowing a middle of the road brand.
steven
doutsukikannna
Email Teshiba [email protected]
$196 each from Japan I would say very much middle of the road
He is my regular dealer
But because of covid he can only send via sea post and it will take 2 months to arrive
Thanks for the info....they look great ..
Steven
Pretty sure Japanese Tolls Australia have some. If not listed, give the, a call, they are always very helpful.
Yes they do have some but they are $600 plus. Just curious as to when they add chip breakers to the planes. I noticed some have them and some don’t.
Steven
Without the chip breakers they are better at stock removal
With chip breaker gives a better surface finish
The chip breaker has only been used in Japan in the last 150 years imported from the west
I am weary of owning Japanese rebate plane everything I have learned about them is that they are tricky to setup and configure.
If this is your first kanna I would suggest something easier like a ko-kanna
Thanks for the info. I have a couple of kanna’s ( 3 ) and I only use them for surface finish as I think I’m just terrible at planing to a line. I have both left and right veritable rebate planes which are really hard to fault.
The Japanese rebate planes I like due to the weight..as you know super light weight. Anyway I might give it some thought. I know setting up a normal Kanna can be very trickie.
steven
I actually just remember seeing this recently
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsLo...n&index=12
All good, and thanks for the YouTube clip.
Sorry for the late reply, Andrew Ren, Kanata tools, deals with Yamamoto directly and got me a pair of rebate planes for a good price. Worth getting in contact with him, facebook is probably easiest.
Before you cast the planes aside, if you have a reasonably accurate oven, temper the irons to 325F (that's about 160C or just above, which is the lower end of the tempering range for the blue and white steels - it'll still be super hard. If that doesn't satisfy, go up 25 degrees).
Spots in kitchen ovens are different temps, even convection, so one of the cheap hanging thermometers that hangs on the oven rack is useful to have to test a spot in the oven first so that you know what temperature it will be.
https://www.zoro.com/taylor-oven-the...hoCEoMQAvD_BwE
(no clue what an equivalent to that would be in australia, but they're $3-$10 here).
Once you've got your oven sussed out, you can correct any japanese tool that you get that's overhard. Go in small increments - things go from chippy and unmanageable to good in short ranges. checking with the thermometer is a must as +/- 50 degrees F isn't that uncommon in kitchen ovens (vs. the indicated temperature), and the tool has to go in the spot where the thermometer was.
I buy a lot of older tools out of japan and fish through them and overhard isn't uncommon. Overhard and well used is extremely rare, and the vast majority of the tools that are overhard and chippy become really excellent with not much tempering.
(no wood parts in the oven, of course - chisels need to be separated from handles). Hour of tempering will do anything we use in woodworking tools (thickness wise). General rule is an hour per inch of thickness, but longer than needed is better than shorter).
One area I seem to really struggle with setting my Kana consistently is setting the chip breaker. Like all planes it seems really helpful to get the chip breaker really close to the cutting edge. On western planes set the chip breaker first then place it into the plane.
Kana set the blade right then tap in the chip breaker without going to far. I’m really struggling to see the chip breaker creep up on the cutting edge without going to far.