On the subject of tearout!,,

Hi guys , following faulko, s post about tearout .. I was turning some green camphor and the tearout was massive , so I thought I would try some of the suggestion that were posted here
So first was gouge almost upright, next was skew laid flat as a neg rake scraper, then I tried sealer with both gouge and skew again that seemed to work a lot better , more sanding sealer and then sanding from 80grit to 800 grit , then EEE and glow
What do others use , and more suggestions?
Any comments and advice welcome as always

Smiife, I will shear scrape with a gouge or N/R scraper/Skew. Handle down at 45°, Toolrest well below centre, gouge, flute almost closed, N/R at 45°. Cutting on or just below centre.
The shavings should resemble "Angel Hair", ie very fine.

The Sanding Sealer hardens the timber enough to get a better quality of "cut".

Sometimes the only answer is the 60# gouge.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pat

Smiife, I will shear scrape with a gouge or N/R scraper/Skew. Handle down at 45°, Toolrest well below centre, gouge, flute almost closed, N/R at 45°. Cutting on or just below centre.
The shavings should resemble "Angel Hair", ie very fine.

The Sanding Sealer hardens the timber enough to get a better quality of "cut".

Sometimes the only answer is the 60# gouge.

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That is about what I did Pat ,
Only I used 80grit :U

While the shear and NR scrapers will improve the finish, in some cases they wont give a good finish. I end up sanding with coarser grits than normal and that may be as low as 80.
Was hoping I may have picked up a couple of new tricks in this thread but seems that there are no simple answers to bad tear out. Will have a go at your style of shear scraping smiife with a swept gouge wing. That gives a couple of different things to try before bringing out the sandpaper

I'd say that's pretty much the standard approach.

I do have a couple of other things I'll try in the case of really persnicketty woods.

If a normal scraper still gives deep tear-out (although not as deep as a normal gouge) I have another scraper made from triangular cross section steel. When sitting flat on the tool-rest, the cutting edge gives a skewed cut. In use it tends to work best with the steel perfectly horizontal, just under the centre-line.


The other is a CS round-noses scraper that has a 90 degree bevel. 'What?' I hear you ask. 'Waddya mean 90 degree?' :?

I mean just that. I keep this thing squared. I've also been known to burnish the arrises much as one would a card scraper, raising burrs on the top/bottom edges.

In use, the lathe needs to run as slowly as possible and the burr literally disappears within seconds, which is why I burnish both edges... I can flip it over and get a few more seconds of cutting time before I need to draw out another burr.

Painfully slow to use but will work well when other methods leave the 'peach-fuzz surface' type tear-out.


With both methods, only light cuts are desired. Going for the angel hair shavings.

Sharp tools will help.

All of the above, but sometimes various timbers just tearout no matter what. I use a lot of Qld Maple and Maple Silkwood, and some pieces are just plain nasty, so it's the 80 grit gouge to do it.
Also for anyone thinking it's our tools or technique, I have shared some of this wood with some of the best Turner's here and in the US and they all told me it's unturnable without tearout.
Rgds,
Crocy.

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Originally Posted by Old Croc

All of the above, but sometimes various timbers just tearout no matter what. I use a lot of Qld Maple and Maple Silkwood, and some pieces are just plain nasty, so it's the 80 grit gouge to do it.
Also for anyone thinking it's our tools or technique, I have shared some of this wood with some of the best Turner's here and in the US and they all told me it's unturnable without tearout.
Rgds,
Crocy.

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That,s exactly right Crocky , thank goodness for 80 grit :2tsup::2tsup::2tsup: