Hey Everyone,
Does anyone know where I could buy slotted metal c channels to stop table tops warping (see pictures below)? I found some metal fabricators that can make them for me but I wanted to check if anyone knows of a place I can buy them off the shelf.
Attachment 479921Attachment 479922
Thanks for your help.
Would like to see a photo or diagram of the application and how they will work.
Rather than having them fabricated with a slot , couldn’t you just use a standard extrusion cut to length and drill oversized holes with button head screws for the expansion?
That's how my old work did it, but with L-section instead of C-section, and powder-coated black.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beardy
Nothing some channel, a drill and a file wouldnt take care of.
A mill would it as well.
I think unless you're buying the thin stuff used in stuff like garage shelfing you're up for a custom job.
would a video sufficeQuote:
Originally Posted by double.d
How to Keep Slab Tables Flat ? How To Woodworking - YouTube
Cheers Andrew
Thats a neat idea. As already mentioned i would be inclined to use oversize holes with button heads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by double.d
Or big washers.
Looks like some shelving strips.
Various weights and sizes available.
Hi There,
I made some of these out of some RHS, which I ripped down the centre with a grinder. I drilled and filed out some slotted holes and got them powdercoated.
I would recommend that option, as the corners are already rounded from the RHS section and you can get different wall thicknesses, the strength in these pieces, in keeping the table top flat is in the thickness of the sides of the channel not the base, so you need the C to go into the wood as far as you are game and get 4-5mm wall thickness RHS.
It is a a LOT of routing to cut the channels in the bottom of your top! (I don't have a spiral bit), so many many passes. I used 35mm RHS, but I would recommend wider RHS, maybe 50mm as the timber on the inside of the C has lots of short grain which is ok, but fairly easy to rip out if you do the screws up too tight
I have a top finished with my homemade channels in the base, when I can flip the top over I will post a photo.
Rod
Quote:
Originally Posted by ranga_rod
Is it even necessary to route the C-section into the bottom of the table top, Rod? If the strengthing/straightening c-section sits proud of the bottom it will still be essentially invisible unless you crawl under the table.
Fair enough point. Didn't really think about that too much, I just didn't want anything for people who are sitting down on chairs to get a surprise on if they are moving their chair around, however like you say it won't be super thick and there will be plenty of clearance from the chair to the underside of the top. I pretty much copied the technique shown in the black tail studio you tube vid, but I do see your point. With that in mind you don't even need a C section, you could just use some RHS or timber, mounted on the bottom side of your top.
It seems steel legs attached direct to the top with no frame are pretty popular right now.
Good luck