Dust extraction on Hammer K3 slider

My Hammer K3 slider, while an excellent saw, is sadly let down by the mediocre dust extraction system installed by Felder. I don't know what they were thinking when the design was made.

My saw was purchased second hand and it wasn't long before I discovered that the internal flexible dust hose was disintegrating. This seems to be a common problem reported by other owners.

However the major problem is the design. The external port is 120mm(European sizing) but reduces to 100mm at the connection port without any transition of any sort. The internal hose is then only 100mm and the connection of this hose to the blade shield is very rudimentary. Wrapped around and just held with a hose clamp. The blade guard outlet restricts the air flow considerably.

My plan is to get rid of the blockages by using a 150mm hose to the saw, increasing the connector size to 125mm, use 125mm hose inside the saw and use a 75 or 100mm mm side port for the overhead blade guard. 125mm flexible ducting seems to be readily available.
My problem is where to obtain 125 mm solid ducting pipe (appears very rare) to make an entry port and how to connect the 125 mm hose to the blade guard with out restricting the flow.

Have any other Hammer K3 owners upgraded their saws and can give me some ideas?

Your situations sounds almost identical to mine. You can have a look here Hammer K3 Improving dust collectionmm and then into to see what I did. I still intend to upgrade the blade guard and extraction, but you know, life keeps getting in the way.

As for 125mm solid ducting, find someone that sells exhaust pipe for trucks, that’s what I used and it fits perfectly with the 125 flex pipe from Carbatec.

Cheers Andrew

Thanks Andrew
Just what I needed to get me started. I am having trouble visualising the changes you have made to the blade guard. Tomorrow I will try to remove mine and compare with your photos. Did Enfied Guy actually post photos of his modifications as he indicated he would in your thread?
Fortunately we have lots of helpful members on this forum.
Cheers
Ron

No Enfield guy never got back with pictures.

before you remove your blade chute, tilt it all the way and raise and lower the blade to try and get a feel for where the tight spots are clearance wise. I really don’t know how to describe what I did, comparing yours to my pictures will hopefully get you started.

Cheers Andrew

The reason the internal dust pipe disintegrates is that it is mandated by EU law that the internal pipe must bio-degrade (within 3 years), Just one of the EU (read German) Greens Party victories in making life as difficult as possible.

I have a Hammer C3-31 comfort which suffers the same problem on the saw.

The difficulty you will face is with tilt. There is very little clearance on the side wall of the saw chassis at 45 degree tilt. I fabricated a heat molded PVC connector, which did not last. I am going back to clamping a good solid piece of Aussie non biodegradable dust pipe to the blade shield for the moment. My eventual plan is to fabricate a light sheet steel adapter with one round end to clamp the pipe, & a 45 degree bend to a fitted rectangular connection for the blade shield.

This is what I was looking for in my other thread

Table saw port/pickup upgrade WIP

Hi Andrew
I removed my guard and compared it with your pictures and now I think I understand the modifications that you have made. I also adjusted my saw for maximum and minimum blade hight and tilt to see where there may be space problems. The only major problem I can see is that the bottom of the shroud (guard) approaches to about 15mm of the left hand cabinet wall on maximum tilt.

A few further Q if I may

1. I assume you used a piece of 5"exhaust pipe to squeeze oval and attach to the bottom of the guard?

2. I assume this piece of pipe is attached at about 45 degree to the right so that it protrudes right just below the rise and fall steel plate that the shroud is bolted to.

3. I see how you have increased the size of the bottom of the shroud by welding in a triangular steel piece towards the front of the guard. I am wondering why you extended the front of the guard and not the back as it seems extending the back ( Where the blade exits through a slot) would not seem to foul anything with the tilt. Am I missing something?
Thanks again
Ron

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ronboult

Hi Andrew
I removed my guard and compared it with your pictures and now I think I understand the modifications that you have made. I also adjusted my saw for maximum and minimum blade hight and tilt to see where there may be space problems. The only major problem I can see is that the bottom of the shroud (guard) approaches to about 15mm of the left hand cabinet wall on maximum tilt.

A few further Q if I may

1. I assume you used a piece of 5"exhaust pipe to squeeze oval and attach to the bottom of the guard?

2. I assume this piece of pipe is attached at about 45 degree to the right so that it protrudes right just below the rise and fall steel plate that the shroud is bolted to.

3. I see how you have increased the size of the bottom of the shroud by welding in a triangular steel piece towards the front of the guard. I am wondering why you extended the front of the guard and not the back as it seems extending the back ( Where the blade exits through a slot) would not seem to foul anything with the tilt. Am I missing something?
Thanks again
Ron

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The first 2 points you assume correct, full marks there :)

Re point 3, if you extend the chute the other way it will foul on the motor / drive belt system when the blade is very low, hence I extended it the only way I could work out how too.

Cheers Andrew