Metal protection

Hello
i have problems maintaining the quality of the surface of various different woodworking machinery. That is cast iron tops and decks. Most of my gear is run of the mill quality, made for hobbyists.
At this time of year (wet season) humidity is high so the air is quite saturated.
Because I use my gear intermittently I feel that each time I do, it requires some level of restoration. Everything gets covered when not in use but the problem persists.
Any suggestions with firstly cleaning and then applying some product to protect would be appreciated.
My best result so far has been a car wax.
Many thanks. Bill.

I have used Silber Gleit (silver glide) but that’s been hard to get so I use Ubeauts Traditional wax. Great protection. I’d be careful with car wax as it may have silicon which can effect your wood finishing.

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Originally Posted by BILLOJ

Hello
i have problems maintaining the quality of the surface of various different woodworking machinery. That is cast iron tops and decks. Most of my gear is run of the mill quality, made for hobbyists.
At this time of year (wet season) humidity is high so the air is quite saturated.
Because I use my gear intermittently I feel that each time I do, it requires some level of restoration. Everything gets covered when not in use but the problem persists.
Any suggestions with firstly cleaning and then applying some product to protect would be appreciated.
My best result so far has been a car wax.

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Watch out for car wax, some of them contain silicone and if any of that gets on a workpiece you may not be able to apply other finishes.
I use Ubeaut paste wax.

At the moment it's Glitz beeswax polish because thats the tin in use but any paste wax polish (without silicone) will do. I go over any rust by scrubbing with wd40 and a green kitchen scrubber then wipe off the slurry. Then wipe down with metho and a clean paper towel. Then the wax. How often depends on climate but you just have to do it as required. Leaving sawdust sitting on surfaces is a rust magnet so brush down after use and I find a cloth drop sheet cover helps a bit also.
Regards
John

I've found that the best rust preventative is to actually let the whole thing rust, then scrub it off with a stainless kitchen scouring ball. This leaves a dark patina that seems to be much less prone to rusting than bright metal. DON'T use steel wool, that will scrub the patina off as well and leave you back where you started.

Also, Silverglide here if anyone wants New 2013 felder SILBERGLEIT Sealants and Adhesives in EMU PLAINS, NSW

I take a dual approach.

First and foremost, any machine that is done for the day gets a light coat of Camelia Oil. I use this particularly as it's very easy to apply (spray a couple of shots from a pump spray bottle, then lightly wipe over with a cloth - keep the cloth in a jar and continually use it for this purpose only). Camelia Oil also won't affect the application of any finishes, and thus, it doesn't matter if there's a residue on your machine (you actually want a residue there).

The second step I take is covering each surface with a 100% pure cotton cover. Cotton will breathe, but it won't allow dust or other airborne particles to hit the surface, which to me, seem to be the starting point for rust spots. I will always keep the cover elevated off the cast iron surface so there is an air gap in between.

I've got my machinery packed away right now as I'm fitting out the workshop space, they've been packed away near on 12 months now, absolutely no rust, and they're not in an air conditioned space at all.

I use the Ubeaut Traditional Wax on my surfaces too as it protects against rust in the short term and is very slippery when passing your timber over it. I also cover my cast iron tables with something whether it be cloth or a sheet of ply just to stop dust building up on it. If I have a machine that I use irregularly I give the surface a spray with Inox. This is much better than the sprays like WD40 etc as it is very oily and doesn't evaporate like the others, you actually have to wipe it off before using the machine even after considerable time of no use. I buy my Inox in the trigger sprayer as it is much better value than the pressure pack.

So much hard work!

Give it a blat with G15.... great stuff. --> LUBRICANT FILM G15 SOFT 400G AERO | Blackwoods

Its $15.50 a can from Blackwoods.

This was recommended by the forum in another topic on how to protect my planes... SOME of which dont get used too often :doh::D:rolleyes::rolleyes: