Improvements to 36" Alaskan Mill Clone.

Waiting for the ground to dry out so I can attempt to get a seasoned (think Narrow Leaf Ironbark) log into the hay shed for my next project, a slab for a bathroom vanity.
We had another 27ml last night in a thunder storm to add to the 87 last week, weird in May in this part of the country.

Attachment 494418

An idea of the set up in the shed. About 1/4 way down on far right you can see one of the larger log to move before getting at the right one.
Some "beefing up" of lifting gear and beams is also on the list for the larger logs

Attempting to improve the milling equipment with the help of research, mainly on the forums.
First off was a hand throttle for the 660 clone;

Attachment 494419
Thanks Bob.

And just yesterday followed more of Bob's advice as best I could and did this to the mill;

Attachment 494420
Attachment 494421Attachment 494422Attachment 494423

One question on this mod though, showed these pic to a boiler maker friend who said the studs are weak and should M8, they are 8mm endless gal.
Has this been others experience?
Have replaced nuts with nylocks.

You may have noticed the power head in above pic..........Very happy to have added a new Stallion to the Stable.... A Stihl 084 AV! :U
Bought it fairly locally for a good price, looks and seems to have been well looked after and low hours. Previous owner said he bought it new and was now to old to use it, (one year older than me BTW :; )

It, of course will be the main milling saw and the Holtz. G660 a backup.

Attachment 494425

Any crits, advice welcome,
Cheers.

Bushie

I can't help much with your mill as I have never used one of those Alaskans.

Does your tractor have remote hydraulic outlets? I can't see from the pic. If it does, you may find substituting a hydraulic ram of a suitable size for the top link very useful in conjunction with the forks. It enables you to level or tilt the forks and more easily remove a load no matter what height you have lifted to.

Regards
Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushie

Attempting to improve the milling equipment with the help of research, mainly on the forums.
First off was a hand throttle for the 660 clone;

Attachment 494419
Thanks Bob.

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Nice mod. Good location too

If you haven't seen my motorcycle throttle version here's a pic.
Kill switch works too.
Attachment 494432


RE: Bolting bar to mill.

Quote:

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One question on this mod though, showed these pic to a boiler maker friend who said the studs are weak and should M8, they are 8mm endless gal.
Has this been others experience?
Have replaced nuts with nylocks.

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Iv'e used M8 tensile on my small mill with the 441 (72 cvc)
For a bigger saw I would at least use M8s.

Quote:

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You may have noticed the power head in above pic..........Very happy to have added a new Stallion to the Stable.... A Stihl 084 AV! :U.

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Great Saw - well done :2tsup:

https://www.woodworkforums.com/avata...ine=1350625296 Bushmiller

That would be great but unfortunately no outlets on the old bitch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BobL

Nice mod. Good location too

If you haven't seen my motorcycle throttle version here's a pic.
Kill switch works too.
Attachment 494432

Yes, that post you sent to me was my inspiration!


RE: Bolting bar to mill.

Iv'e used M8 tensile on my small mill with the 441 (72 cvc)
For a bigger saw I would at least use M8s.


Dam, I red loctighted the gal in. :doh:


Great Saw - well done :2tsup:

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Have tried to insert response in sections but keeps saying "need more words":, or some such

I gather from the photo of the end of the bar, it's not a roller sprocket?
Rgds,
Crocy.

Yes it is a roller Crocy, You need at least three cobalt bit, pedestal drill on slowest setting and cutting fluid.
The washers are sitting on the rivet heads and not done up real tight as have nylocks on 'em.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushie

Yes it is a roller Crocy, You need at least three cobalt bit, pedestal drill on slowest setting and cutting fluid.
The washers are sitting on the rivet heads and not done up real tight as have nylocks on 'em.

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A carbide bit will work but instead of risking destroying very expensive all carbide bits I use old concrete drill bits with the tip touched up a little on a diamond wheel. Its not worth sharpening to a keen edge as it will just crumble. The risk of bit destruction is highest at real through so just drill till the bits can be seen and then drill from the other side. Definitely need cutting fluid.

If you destroy a concrete bit they are not as expensive as all carbide or cobalts.