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Any consideration or advice, good or bad.
Looking at a Robert Sorby mini woodturning set for a mate I want to set up with a small lathe he can use sitting down due to a disability.
Sharpening using normal tools, handle/shafts ergonomics etc....
Any info, or suggestions or recommendations appreciated.
Thanks
Lyle
Any worthwhile advice will depend greatly on the nature of his disability.
Setting up a lathe for seated turning is quite straightforward; where many people who need such have problems is with other things, such as sharpening.
As they need to sit, I assume it's back related? Can they stand to walk to a grinding staion mutliple times per session or will that exacerbate things?
If not, do they have any problems with twisting side-to-side while seated to access a suitable height grinding station next to them?
As far as the Sorby mini tools are concerned, there are no special requirements when it comes to sharpening. The smaller size does mean they can be a bit fiddlier to fit into jigs if that's what's being used, but that's about it.
I have found that my Sorby mini set really, really don't hold an edge well, which has resulted in my rarely using them even for jobs they'd otherwise be ideal for.
But then again, nowadays I tend to turn timbers that sneer at many, many low- to mid-priced chisels and can often raise a laugh at my chainsaws expense. :sigh: So don't judge them just because of my words.
I have done a modest amount of custom sharpening of both full size and mini lathe tools.
The first accessory to buy is a digital protractor. I learned that the various tools have different bevel angles.
Like wood-carving tools, it's important to be able to repeat those bevel angles.
I use a General Tool swing-arm protractor which was originally meant to measure drill bit tip angles.
Sure, it's analog but I get along just fine.
Some of the tools were really buggered up, I had to begin with an 80 grit carborundum stone
to establish what I believed had been the original bevel angle.
There must be half a dozen different techniques for sharpening which all yield exactly the same result.
I still do freehand sharpening of my carving tools, I can stand up for long enough to get it done.
Any worse and I'd be looking as the low-speed, water-cooled stone wheel systems so I could sit.
Hell of a thing, not being able to leap about and dance the nights away. I fully understand.
Thanks for replies. Parkinson's, so I am trying to get him setup for small turning. Pens , bowls, spindle etc.
Gross motor is a little unsteady, hence seated turning.
Walking is unsteady but do-able. Twisting while seated, no. Unless I want him to fall off the stool...:B
Sharpening will be something to sort out.
Looking at a little Jet, mounted to his bench, and a height adjustable pivoting stool/seat.
My legs have very poor circulation and my sense of balance was wrecked from a concussion. A cane is OK if there are things to hold onto otherwise,
I zoom around the house with a walker. Yeah, sitting is good.
Find out first whether it's gross motor skills or fine motor skills he has a problem with. Mini tools often require more "fine" aka finger and wrist, where full size tools take more "gross" skills - elbow and forearm.
Reason I say this is that "Big" tools may stabilize the tremors because of the added heft and different muscles required to use them.
Also, because most turning tools are now high speed steel - consider power sharpening. Your friend will wear himself out hand sharpening that stuff. Also the available jigs can compensate for some of the tremors.
I read that the objective here is to get the guy turning. If there's a Guild or a club nearby, surely somebody can step up and do the sharpening? It would be a pleasure to help out.
I was gifted a set of small turning tools. 10? 12? of them and quite good steel to tune them up. They live in my stone carving kit.
Steatite soapstone can be carved with a screwdriver and rough outs cut with a bandsaw.
So there's no chance of wrecking any tools, hand saws included.