D Handle vs Bull Handle Brushcutters

Hey guys,
I have a D handle brushcutter which I'm very happy with, but I have to bend down slightly to use it - I'm 6'3 in boots and have two kinds of back disease, using the brushcutter is becoming a major trauma and wipes me out for a few days.
Has anyone used both a d Handle and bull handle brushcutter, does the bull handle allow you to use the machine while keeping your back fairly straight.
I'd be buying from a shop 120k's away so driving down there to try the feel is something I'd like to avoid if I can.
Cheers
Smidsy

I have a bull-handle and a harness (Probably 10 years since I used anything with the D). The harness is probably the most important change. I'd recommend it, and yes you can keep your back straight.

I should have got the bull handle five years ago, but funds were limited and my back wasn't as bad then - but osteo arthritis in the spine and diseased discs are catching up with me.
I had thought of converting my machine to bull handle but the company doesn't sell those parts.

I have used both, and would not go back to a D handle if I had a choice.

Smidsy

The bull horn versions are normally the larger and more powerful machines and they give better control when using the brushcutter blade. If you were using a blade on the "D" handle you may have noticed that it is quite common for the blade to snag on a larger plant and try to throw you to one side. Some "D" handle mchines are not suitable for a blade as the gearbox is not sufficiently robust and will result in premature demise.

The harness that comes with the bull horn versions should allow more adjustment for your height.

Regards
Paul

What everyone else said. I converted a D handle brushcutter to bull handle+harness 15 years ago, and wouldn't even consider using a D handle type now.

I also have a lower back injury (L5S1 disc MIA), so try not to do too much brushcutting in one go - my rule is one tank of fuel per session. By angling the bull handle and adjusting the harness correctly you should be able to get something comfortable. On most brands you can slide the bull handle mounting bracket up the shaft a bit further if you are on the taller side.

I have used D handles for 35+ years with occasional use of bull horns belonging to others. I prefer D handles because I find bull horns more prone to get tangled up when working in tight places. Within any brand where both options are available in similar sized units the shafts are the same length, and its just the handle and control setup that vary. I also have back issues, plus I walk bone on bone in both knees, and are 6'2" in bare feet, probably 6'4" in boots and orthotics. One thing I have done with my D handle Stihl is adjust the D so it is closer to the throttle/handgrip on the shaft, so that I have more shaft forward of the handle. With a slight change to position of my right arm, I have effectively added about 5 inches to the shaft length compared to where it was when assembled by the dealer. This unit mainly runs with a string head using 3mm line and around 350mm of exposed line each side of the head, but is also used with Weed Wacka metal blade and plastic blade cutters on occasion. No issues with control evident.

Thanks for all the advice guys, below is what I got - on special this week, $219 down from $269 which I thought was too good to pass up.
I've had the 25cc D handle version of this brushcutter for five years, it runs a weed wakka blade happily, starts second pull every time and all it's ever cost me was $23 for a blade guard - and I suspect that failure was due to more to the teenager using it than the quality of the machine.
All I've ever done to it was swap the bump feed head for a manual feed (my preference) I run it 25:1 instead of the book stated 33:1 on good castrol oil.
If anyone in Qld's after a budget brushcutter these machines are well worth a look.

TradeTools | Huge Range, Great Service

That looks like a good buy - I presume a harness came with it? If not, you definitely need one to take the weight off. By playing around with the mounting point on the shaft and the harness length you can get the brushcutter to swing nicely at the correct height with minimum effort.

If you ever want a bump feed head that actually works, this is the one to get: WHIPPER SNIPPER TRIMMER SPEED FEED HEAD FOR SELECTED BENT SHAFT TRIMMERS

They come with a variety of threaded inserts to suit different brands/models of brushcutter - I've used SpeedFeed on both Stihl and Honda brushcutters. It was actually a Stihl shop that put me onto these, after admitting that the Stihl bump head left a lot to be desired :rolleyes:.

Enjoy your new toy :D

It comes with a harness, fuel mixing bottle, a not very good blade, a plug spanner and two line heads - one a bump feed and the other a manual feed.
Neither of the heads or the blade I'll use, I've got a week wakka blade and a good after market manual feed head which is my preference.
I dislike bump feed heads, even on name brand machines I've had nothing but trouble with them, plus even though it's how they work banging something on the ground goes against how I treat my gear.
Interestingly, the book for this and the D handle recommend 33:1 fuel, I've always used 25:1 and when I mentioned that to the guy at the shop he told me that even though the book says 33, they actually recommend 25 - and I use Castrol oil.

For every 2-stroke I've owned 25:1 is the standard mix - never heard of 33:1.

The exception is if you use the (considerably more expensive) Stihl oil, for which they recommend a 50:1 mix

HP Ultra 2-Stroke Engine Oil - Excellent lubrication and protection.

I use the Stihl oil at 50:1 in Stihl chainsaws with no problems. Not sure what magic ingredient it has in it to allow that? Unicorn tears or something?

1, It's not the oil it's the machine. Stihls and omc outboards run on 50:1. Most "common" 2 smokes are designed for 25:1. There is nothing magic about stihl oil, apart from the price!


2. The reason there are bullbars and D handles is they do different things better. The D is better in configned spaces, bullbars are better for large open areas. I have bullbars on both my stihls and while they are good in open areas getting in between the fence house and trees can be a blessed bother.


The boss's father paid for her to get a stihl self propelled electric lawn mower. She was going to get the consumer grade machine when I noticed the commercial machine was ony a bit dearer so she got that. I mowed her lawn the other day. Typical stihl it was finished like a chinese cheapie and is a terrible design. The cables tangle up in the handle joints and it's be easy to damage it when folding. Anyway it mows well. The SP worked well climbs hills fills the catcher.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by damian

1, It's not the oil it's the machine. Stihls and omc outboards run on 50:1. Most "common" 2 smokes are designed for 25:1. There is nothing magic about stihl oil, apart from the price!

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Not sure that's quite right - see Stihl recommendation:-

The right fuel mixture for your STIHL petrol tool.

25:1 with "any brand" oil, or 50:1 with Stihl oil. Stihl oil is more expensive, but you use half as much - swings and roundabouts.

Believe what you will. I made a proper study of oil chemistry in the 80's when I was younger and keener. I've endured the endless oil threads on various forums. I'm too old and cranky to keep revisiting this.