Steam Box Steamer

Anyone tried using a Wagner wall paper remover as the steam source for a wood bending steam box?

Looks to be very similar to the Rockler kit however I can not see any info on power/perf to be able to compare

I have used a Wagner steamer for many years - heats up quite quickly and works very well. Only downside is that it is a bit small - you have to top up tank continuously.

I stopped using a steamer box about 12 years ago. I now use soft polythene tubing - basically, plastic bag on a roll - it is far more versatile and easier. Stuff like this:
Poly Tube. Continuous Bag On A Roll - UPAC

With a steamer box, you basically have 60 seconds after removing hot timber from box to bend it before it cools rigid. Using the steamer bag, you bend it while still still applying steam - you can bend it in both directions to loosen the lignen, you can creep up on tighter bends, you can clamp it to the former while still steaming. It really is a quantum better than a steam box. It is still hot tho, so you do have to be careful.

Suggest that you google "steaming timber in a plastic bag" - lots of videos available - some brilliant, lots of crap.

Contiuous poly bag works well but often damaged when long lengths are being worked. For full length yacht timbers ie gunnels, chines etc. I use lay-flat hose rather than bag. Usually, the better quality the hose the longer it lasts.
As has already been said, you can form to shape while its still steaming.

I use two wagner steamers at once. They work very well, I am going to start using flat hose to rebend some armbows that I made a while ago and need to rebend again.

OMG! How have I not heard of bag steaming before!!!

Impatient as always I had already purchased the Wagner Wallpaper remover and built the steam box for getting any thread replies.

I will start here and look to test the bag method in due course.

Thanks for your excellent guidance

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Originally Posted by rustynail

Contiuous poly bag works well but often damaged when long lengths are being worked. .....

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Rusty is quite correct, but I regard the continuous bag as expendible. It comes in at least 3 grades - 50, 100 and 200 micron - my current stash is 200μ which is probably overkill - but it is much more robust that the 50μ stuff.

My record length is a pair of 36foot sponsons on a yacht. The problem then was not ripping the bag, but that the steam cooled before it got to the end of the bag. A local football club's hot dog boiler provided enough steam.

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Originally Posted by GraemeCook

A local football club's hot dog boiler provided enough steam.

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Love the lateral thinking there ! :D

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Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Rusty is quite correct, but I regard the continuous bag as expendible. It comes in at least 3 grades - 50, 100 and 200 micron - my current stash is 200μ which is probably overkill - but it is much more robust that the 50μ stuff.

My record length is a pair of 36foot sponsons on a yacht. The problem then was not ripping the bag, but that the steam cooled before it got to the end of the bag. A local football club's hot dog boiler provided enough steam.

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For long lengths I introduce steam from both ends. The other advantage of hose is the availability of connectors and valves. Heat retention in the thicker hose is much better and increases working time. Generally, the slower the cool the better the shape. Black hose on a warm day will stay hot for hours.

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Originally Posted by rustynail

... Heat retention in the thicker hose is much better and increases working time. ...

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Not sure what you mean here, Rustynail.

I keep the steam flowing continuously through the bending process. Effectively, the working time is infinite (or the boiler goes dry).

Timbers are often carried to their intended location and then bent to shape. In the case of long timber it is nice to be able to remove the timber, still in the hose, from the steamer by way of the snap connectors which are preceded by a shutoff valve. This retains the steam pressure in the hose along with residual heat, hence increasing flex working time. Clamp up, open the valves and leave to cool and dry.

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Originally Posted by rustynail

Timbers are often carried to their intended location and then bent to shape. In the case of long timber it is nice to be able to remove the timber, still in the hose, from the steamer by way of the snap connectors which are preceded by a shutoff valve. This retains the steam pressure in the hose along with residual heat, hence increasing flex working time. Clamp up, open the valves and leave to cool and dry.

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Thanks.

Basically the same technique, except that I keep the steam flowing until its clamped to the former.

Hi Graeme, or any other Wagner users, have you found a source of compatible threaded connectors to fit the Wagner threads. I currently use water hose and jubilee clamps but would like to have a screw on fitting. Thanks for any advice. Owen

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Originally Posted by WoodyOwen

Hi Graeme, or any other Wagner users, have you found a source of compatible threaded connectors to fit the Wagner threads. ...

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No, but I have never looked.