Chisel help

This is a Stanley & I think they are called everlast or everlasting.

I have been asked to replace the handle but do not know how they were assembled. The post with the knob & the blade are one piece. The socket is a separate piece but had to be installed before the knob was formed.

There was a leather washer between what was left of the handle & the knob. There was a ring/flange inserted/pressed into the endgrain of the wood handle adjacent to the knob.

Starting to wonder if the socket & handle wood was placed on the shaft then the knob was upset then quickly cooled.

Does anyone know how a new handle could be fixed apart from a split turning & glued on in two pieces?

Thanks for any help or info.

RayAttachment 526285

Hi Ray . Your either going to do the split handle repair which I think is the way to go or get into Blacksmithing / Engineering mode and heat the chisel end up to see how it was put together. Its a Great opportunity to learn how they were made. I would think the round knob on the end had a hole in it and after the washer and wood was slid on the knob with its hole and countersunk end was placed on and then the rod would have been peened out to fill the end counter sunk hole.
If its not that then the knob and post were formed as one and turned and pressed into the tapered part . If you get steel just the right size for a hole and press it in the only thing that will get it out is heating it up and pulling it out with a slide hammer while holding the other end in a vise.
I don't think the end would have been heated for assembly to the point of being able to form that knob after the wood was placed on . It would damage the wood to much with the heat.

Do us a favor and show us what you end up doing with this please.

If you were to just get the knob red hot and punch the middle with a cold rod with the chisel set up on a bar with a hole in it to hold the knob back but let the chisel go forward you should see some movement straight away if that knob was installed on last, and if its hot enough.
If that doesn't work then heating the tapered part to red hot with the blade wrapped in a wet cold rag to keep the heat from running down the blade and clamping it in a vise and using a slide hammer on the knob should move it out if that's how it was put together.

A split repair with the wood matched well . Two halves cut from the same piece of Oak or are they Ash handles ? Or what timber? They would glue up to be an invisible repair if done well. You could posssibly finish turning the handle after its installed . I sometimes replace broken rails in chairs like that if the chair wont come apart. With a long splice join from the same piece of wood and they become invisible repairs.

Rob

That above was my guess then I did a search and found this .

Attachment 526287

Good luck getting that apart :)
Maybe the knob end is two parts as well ?
Its a solid looking chisel isn't it .

I found that in here .

Berg Everlasting Style Chisel? – galootopia

Thanks Rob,

Thought I had done another post last night but not sure what happened.

My first trade was a blacksmith, so heat & hammer etc & it isn't coming apart. I even thought that it had a threaded joint but there was no movement there. That cutaway explains why.

Found this

The Stanley Rule & Level Co. acquired the Hurley & Wood Company of Southington, CT in 1904 as a means to enter into the chisel market. Stanley introducted the Everlasting Chisel Line in a 1911 catalog as shown to the left. Stanley acquired in this aquisition the patents for the classic design known as the "Everlasting Chisel", which was a creation of father and son George E. Wood and George A. Wood. The Everlasting chisel is of a unique patented which incorporates a one piece solid steel blade and shank which goes through the handle completely, ending in a peened end cap. As such, there is no loss of energy between the hammer and the cutting edge.

The knob & shaft are one piece, the die marks, from forging, are visible & run continually along the shaft & around the underside of the knob.

Looks like the only option will be a split turning. The only thing that I won't be able to copy is the ring in the end grain, as in this photo of what remains of the handle..

Ray,
I think the brass (?) ring is designed to hold the struck end of the split turning together while you "bash" the end button.
The other end will be held in place by the socket part of the chisel.
Replicating the brass ring should be straight forward -- heating the ring so that it expands and then cools on the handle is how I would do it.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attac...5&d=1684872787

Thanks Ian, That ring was embedded in the end grain so I assume it would have been in place prior to the shaft being inserted into the socket.

My thoughts on how it was possibly done. Only guessing.

Not sure how the socket would have been formed apart from turning that hollow. The handle shaft would have been shaped to fit into the opening & long enough that when hot & pressed from the knob end would deform to fill that shape. So there would have been some system to protect the wood from the heat.

Only bit I can't fathom is that there is a clear join between the socket & the blade part but this is not visible in the cutaway so not sure how that was achieved.

There was also a leather washer between the handle and the knob.

Just learned not to use printing paper to glue up for split turning. As I started drilling, the joint split leaving paper on both faces.

The method to fit the strengthening ring(s) in the handle of a brace was patented by W. McCoy and assigned to the Millers Falls company in August 1871, I assume Wood used the same or similar method for his chisel handles. https://patentimages.storage.googlea...c/US118039.pdf
I looked up, on DATAMP, G. A. & G. E. Wood and they have a lot of patents for tool handles starting from about 1905.
Cheers,
Geoff.

Finally got a split turning to hold together.

This is a test piece & will do another now I know how it will fit. Just not sure when.

Will see the owner tomorrow & may even be able to talk them into having a go at doing it.

The diameter at the knob needs to be slightly larger & overall needs to be 1mm longer.

The centre hole could be a fraction larger to allow the joints to seat together a bit better. They are very visible as they are.

I have one that’s been thru a fire.
Might get motivated after seeing your efforts at rehandling it.
What timber were they originally and what are you using ?
H.Attachment 526562Attachment 526563

Ray

Avery interesting challenge for you.

This is from a 1920 Stanley catalogue:

Attachment 526589

It looks as though Hickory was the timber used. You may be able to salvage some Hickory from an old axe handle or even from a new one. The alternative both from looks and performance would be Spotted Gum.

They came in sets too.

Attachment 526590

The everlasting chisel appeared in a 1912 catalogue but with a less detailed description and no mention of the timber so your 1911 inception date is probably on the money.

Regards
Paul

Edit: Some info on the ferrule too, which I don't pretend to understand. The need for an impact resistant timber seems a little superfluous as the shock is transferred through the button top, down the shank to the main body of the chisel. I do note that they include a leather washer to alleviate any shock to the handle. If it was made in two parts, it would not stand up to impact well unless it was isolated from the striking. All a little anomalous, but interesting nevertheless.

I do have some hickory, picked up enough from a small mill for about 6 metal shaping hammers a mate wanted rehandled.
That’s the beauty of a full size camper when travelling in Canada and that other place where they’ve lotsa guns.
H.

I am not sure what the timber was apart from nondescript hardwood I had in the shed.

Put a leather washer on. Punched it out then split it to put around the shaft. I used araldite to join the handle.

Not sure if araldite will stand any impact without cracking.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clear out

I have one that’s been thru a fire.
Might get motivated after seeing your efforts at rehandling it.
What timber were they originally and what are you using ?
H.Attachment 526562Attachment 526563

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Hard to tell but looks like it hasn't gotten too hot, the business end still looks shiny so its hardness shouldn't have been affected.