Table Saw advise needed urgently

Hi All,
I am after a dedicated table saw after dealing with a Triton table saw many many years. Need a bit more accuracy and easier setup. My budget is limited so I can not get even close to my dream stuff and decided to settle with a high end kinda contractor saw. After many hours of researching, I am interested with two tables saws which looks like what I am after. First one is Bosch GTS 10 XC and the second one is DeWALT 254. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any displayed Bosch at any store I can get access (Adelaide) to check its parallel fence and mitre fence accuracy, or the built quality. With the DeWALT which looks and feels pretty good but I could not get a definite answer for its bore diameter capacity. As it is 16mm, some says you can only use DeWALT blades and adaptor rings won't work for the 30mm blades because of the shape of locking nut. So I am after some advice and knowledge about the quality and accuracy of the Bosch good enough to buy it without touching it or the blade issue of the DeWALT saw. By the way if you have any advice generally on the subject or about another brand, please let me know. As I mentioned before, I can only go up as the price of the Bosch saw and the space restrictions. So any other proper table saws are out of question for the moment, unfortunately. Over all I need more accuracy and ease of use for more than hobby (hopefully) timber work in a dedicated shed workshop. Please help me with my decision process. Promise I won't blame anyone if something goes wrong. Cheers and happy cutting...

After selling my trusty triton, I had owned for some 25 years. Buy whatever contractor saw you can afford and don’t hesitate. I waited far too long. Bosch and dewalt are both well built units with good service and warranty support. I don’t know if you can put any blade in a dewalt or not but given you don’t need to buy a blade every day……..

cheers

I would go for the DeWalt without question. They have an excellent fence system where it uses a rack and pinion to drive the fence across the table and keeps it parallel with the blade at all times and a simple lock to keep it in place once positioned. It also has a high and low fence which can be very handy. The mitre slots in the table are the standard size so all accessories can be used that are designed for full size saws. I don't know if the blade bore is a problem to use reducing bushes with but there are many blades available with 16mm or 5/8" bore, not just DeWalt. These machines use a thin kerf blade. The blades are even available at the big green shed.
Unfortunately I don't know anything about the Bosch.

Hi M. I would think that the arbour would be 5/8" because that still seems to be the standard in the USA. I have no trouble buying blades with this bore (and I have no dramas using reducing rings for the European blades but my tablesaw is a true contractor style - the DeWalt is better classed as a job site saw). But 16mm and 5/8" are not the same, and the wobble in the saw blade when I tried a 30mm to 16mm reducing ring was frightening.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

Which model Dewalt are you looking at ?

This thread discusses the Hiikoki too. A quick search says its $200 cheaper than the dewalt
Dewalt vs Hiikoki

I said this in the thread above = On my Dewalt 8 1/4 inch blade model - The actual bolt/arbour measures 16mm (as close as I can tell with crude tools) but the supplied blade and redemption blade have 30mm holes. The ‘washer’ that goes on before the nut has a 30mm raised ring that engages the 30mm blade hole.

The supplied dewalt blade has been fine for me. Maybe there's better ones out there ? Maybe I have low standards LOL. Overall I'm really happy with the Dewalt. Like all site saws it's very very loud and spews dust everywhere without a vaccum attached. With vaccum attached to the bottom dust port some dust/chips appear out the top, overall still messy.

The triton might be similar however the 'site' aspect of this type of saw is important because on site they make as much mess and noise as they please for a few days then leave, never to return. If you have neighbour's the frequency which you use it needs to be considered because I'm sure you'd hear from them (not over the saw noise but once you finished hahaha). I paid $670 for mine, if I was looking at $1200 for it I'd continue saving for a quieter model for sure - one like this https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood-10in-contractors-table-saw-1800w. You can probably hook up one side as a router table thus saving some space ?

Is a smaller S/H Table Saw an option?
I see them for sale quite often on Marketplace and Gumtree, and they are very cheap compared to new.
Me thinks you would get alot more 'bang for your buck' ( unless space and/or portablity are concerns?)

Just a thought....

Urgent, rush, deadline, etc is a perfect recipe for disfigurement regarding tablesaws. :oo:
Two recent, really terrible life changing amputations since December has been posted on a UK forum,
and one of those had the same theme as this title!
Happened because only one pushstick was used, and as usual, folks having such incidents having PSTD, being not "with it" since,
and no-one benefits due to the lack of clarity of what actually happened,
Presumably not wanting the "told ya so" or what's taken as such, i.e did you even bother to learn the differences between those American
publications, and the suggestions from the HSE in the UK.
It's salt in the wounds, kinda thing.
Not much point in expressing my sorrow, so this is my way of doing it.

Not knowing much about the first victim, just that there was a completely broken saw, which would have been better left as such,
though got fixed in time to meet the deadline, where only a single push stick were used.

The other person came across as quite an experienced fellow, well at least seemingly so... don't tell me what to do,
well, it's just a guess that it was such a tool, nothing posted since.
So, I do hope the rush isn't for this recent upcoming event.

Just to be super condescending, if indeed I can pull it off to the best of my ability.
How are you going to use two 450mm long push sticks on such a saw?
Sounds like you ain't got time to make an infeed and outfeed for it, or indeed make a base up for one, should it be one of those bench jobbies.

I'll bet you have no intention to use said 450mm long pushsticks, (the emphasis on the s) i.e a pair.

No safe methods are used on American publications in general, and most "pushing" unsafe push blocks being the norm to see,
be it CAD plans of shoes, what's waaay too short,
or indeed those "G'rrip off" plastic things,
Both those suggesting that it's OK to have the hand over the blade!!! :oo:

So with all your research, presumably you can point me to a video of such a saw being used what's considered safe,
and used effectively, to let us see what you actually know.

Here's those "fake links" I just pulled out of me , cuz I've obviously got vested financial interests in something or other too,
don't forget to like, share and subscribe, and check the links, and whatever else you can think of.:roll:
With warning, very graphic links below.
Can't stomach it, then you'd better get reading, even if that forum is run by conglomerates without morals.
at one time, not so long ago, there wasn't an infiltration of "bots".

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/ta ... es.145485/

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/na ... st-1716315


Hope that has forced you to read up, I've some links of the good threads, likely easily found in the search.
Have I been horrible enough yet, to get my point across, as if need be, I've only got started,

Y'know, some folks call'em tablesaurs, for good reason!

All the best.
Tom

Yucky photos there Tom.:o

I agree re plastic gadget hand over blade bullish!t.:no:

I make my own pushsticks from plywood.:D

Their long and used as a pair.:U
H.

Ugly pics there Tom; thank you!

Referring back to the beginning of this thread.... I still use a Triton 2000 series workcentre. Two; actually. The main reason for not "upgrading" is that I need the portability and in order to surpass it's accuracy I would have to be forking too many thousands of my dollars. I am more of a hybrid woodworker; carpentry projects come straight off the saw but anything else is then refined using handtools for dimensional accuracy. Owning any of the saws discussed here so far wouldn't change how I work.

The next reason is because I love the inbuilt safety devices; the overhead guard that incorporates vertical pressure fingers, the captive pushstick that runs along the fence and the pressure finger built into the mitre attachment.


My 2c is that you should stick with what you have until you can afford closer to what you want. Keep an eye out on the various marketplaces etc; patience is the key.

I would go the Dewalt without hesitation, the Hikoki might be a good saw too but you don’t see many to get the feedback. The Dewalt has the runs on the board so you know what you are getting

I agree with that - love my Dewalt

the hikioki has been offered at big discounted prices, I can only assume its not a big seller and there's been some average reveiws for it

its a pity that the OP hasn't responded to all of this good advise

I went and found some reading material from a UK standpoint, (old threads on the subject, from before most jumped ship from the place)
as someone was looking for options considering choosing a tablesaw on the big American forum...
and since there's lots of dangerous saws touted as a suitable choice, I thought it would be a dis-service to a newcomer,
who's likely completely unaware how much differently things are done, across the pond.

All the best

Tom

Advice from the HSE to start with, (bearing in mind, much is assumed , and some things shown not mentioned, and other phrases being a catch all statement, what you gott'a figure out for yourself.)
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
Or
https://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/circular-saw.pdf

And some links to the UK forum, which has many great threads in the archives
Might as well number them for folks wanting to study, in no particular order...
1
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...-guard.129299/
2
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...-again.134819/
3
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...k-back.134376/
4
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...-angle.104772/
5
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...n-here.145770/
6
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads.../#post-1316680
7
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...e-2#post-55548
8
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads.../#post-1237571
9
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...0/#post-464040
10
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...le-saw.130321/
11
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...ard-on.133301/
12
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...3/#post-398582
13
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...op-usa.145976/
14
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...ut-them.10490/
15
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads.../#post-1504540
16
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...-guard.129299/
17
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...sticks.124516/
18
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads.../#post-1352165
19
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...al-mod.118878/
20
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads...blocks.107009/