6 mm Brass sheet

I have found a supplier for brass sheet in the elusive "greater than 3 mm size".
They have 1800 x 900 x 6 mm, and will cut down. Also the more common 3 mm, phosphor bronze, copper and all the usual stuff.

If any people are interested, give me a PM and I'll pass on the number. They asked to not have the phone number posted.:confused:

I have not asked about freight interstate, however I am willing to co-ordinate and post pieces through Aus if that is a problem for anyone.

Out of stock at the mo', new stock arriving in 3 weeks.

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Originally Posted by Clinton1

Out of stock at the mo', new stock arriving in 3 weeks.

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Yep same here, Im also out of stock. :confused:

I too can supply you with nothing. :confused:

Al :confused:

Hey Clinton,

Did you contact;

George Weston & Sons
75 Alexandra Pl Murarrie QLD 4172
ph: (07) 3348 9999

They might be able to help.

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Originally Posted by Max Ripper

What does 6mm brass sheets have to do with ww, someone put the cuffs on that fella lol.
Max Ripper

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:)

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Originally Posted by Max Ripper

Oh ic a get rich quick scheme.
Max Ripper

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Eh?????:confused:

Anyone know of a good source in the Perth area?

Incidentally, I have a few plates of 6 or 10mm copper (or what I was told was copper), and it is awfully hard stuff. In fact the screwcap on the plane in my avatar is built from the stuff. I was under the impression that copper was softer than brass, but this stuff was a real bear to grind. What gives?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, going by the colour of the cap iron I would say that it is brass. You can get several different grades of brass from soft to hard to tensile brass sheet and there is also many types of "brass" ie brass, gunmetal, phosphorous bronze etc.

Hello Derek,

Probably Brass (an alloy), methinks, rather than Copper (an element, Cu). Like lead, if alloyed with other elements or compounds, it can become quite hard. Lead mixed with Arsenic and Antimony (:eek: - I think:confused: ) becomes a hard enough material to be used, for example, as a yacht's keel.

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Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hello Derek,

Probably Brass (an alloy), methinks, rather than Copper (an element, Cu). Like lead, if alloyed with other elements or compounds, it can become quite hard. Lead mixed with Arsenic and Antimony (:eek: - I think:confused: ) becomes a hard enough material to be used, for example, as a yacht's keel.

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Plus it wont rot.

Al :D

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Originally Posted by derekcohen

I was under the impression that copper was softer than brass, but this stuff was a real bear to grind. What gives?
Derek

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Derek - according to what I've read, copper work-hardens very easily. Soft alloys also clague up grinding wheels "real fast", but I presume you would cotton on to that pretty soon. I haven't worked much copper, but I vaguely remeber an uncle working with it many moons ago, when the world was a lot younger, and he was diligent about annealing it regularly. Annealing copper is the opposite of iron - heat and quench to anneal.
Dunno if that helps.........

Avagoodweekend,

I prolly should have raised the issue of working the brass, or the phos. bronze, they (George Weston & Sons) have.
The brass will be what is called 1/2 hard (which is, I think, work hardened from the cold working process from making the sheets).
Too hard to peen, and liable to cracking during the peening process.
However, as IanW says, it can be annealed (softened), and I will post the info on that. A simple process if you have a blow torch (antique ebay ones are not 'collectable' and usually very cheap) or oxy, or the usual heat sources. I believe that it requires a low heat, so the pressurised camping gas stoves or the bbq could be employed. Maybe even a big soldering iron (as in the "old school" ones, not electronics ones)
The simple hardening and annealing properties are a benefit to hand working, as it means that you have a lot of flexibility and ease in choosing to have a hard work surface (i.e. rub plates), and also quick & cheap softening for peening, cutting, scraping...
Also, the quick work hardening means you should be able to soften to dovetails area only via spot heat, and peen them, with the peening rehardening the metal. ;)
Did I say "should"?
So, 1/2 hard and should be easy to play with (sound familiar anyone?), but no magic tablet fellas!

I also have found a reasonably priced source of plane fittings, to save machining costs. These are from St James Bay Tool Co. Again, I can get a bulk order in and distribute, I am a miser and hate paying big postage for 1 item. All for the cost of a piccy of what you make :D
Haven't found a cheap (and Ozzie) Carbon Steel blade source yet, anyone know a blacksmith that works from home?
More info to follow, as I get it.
Hmmmm, a "home-made plane making event"? Prize is learning something new, showing off the end result, and sharing the "lessons learned"?