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Thanks for the advice fellas. I tried one more coat with it thinned a little before I got the advice. No luck, just smaller bubbles! I was talking to a spray-painter the day after and I weakend to...

I took note of stiring from the the can instructions. I'm going to be more careful with the brush today and see how I go. I'm going to thin it a little bit too, hopfully this may stop 'em appearing.

Hi Guys,
Im a boilermaker that has decided to use some blackwood slabs given to me as table tops. I've been enjoying myself up to this point. I'm now applying, by brush, Feast Watson Weatherproof...

You can get flexible S/S tube. All the trucks/ crane motors I've seen lately have this fitted , it seems you dont need to have the exaust rubber mounted if you use it close to the manifold. Tangent...

Im not any good with computers so I couldnt blow up your photos to get a better look at the welds(can someone tell me how to do this please?:B) but I think I can see the heat effected zone looks a...

G'day Pete,
8LPM- If it works for you why change it ? The basics of welding are all the same but we all do it slightly different. So some things can vary thats why youll get 1/2 a...

The closest TAFE, that I've gone to, to you would be RMIT(Hawthorne). Probably still to far away. Try a northern TAFE or RMIT in the city most classs are self paced so you turn up when and for as...

This sounds like you have contaminated the tungstan.
Back to gas flow- as I move around alot I get to use alot of different set-ups, I find regulators to be inaccurate most of the time. There is a...

As for coarses, I know of a few TAFEs on the east side of Melb. What area are you from.
Cheers, Col.

S/S filler shouldnt be used for high strength welds for a number of reasons. But for say a table leg no worries. The main factor would be the cost of S/S.
I'm with G.C. with the gas I wouldnt go...

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309 is the norm. If your not worried about S/S rusting mild steel filler is fine.
Are you only having problems when you are adding M/S filler, if so, it sounds like the wire may be dirty....

There steel so they dont distaught from the pressure you apply when clamping the electrode.

G'day fellers, have just read about the problems that you seam to have in common. Craters at the end of the weld can be avoided by not moving away from the weld to quickly. The other cause of them is...

HF minimizes stray arc strike and tungstan inclusions on start up , and porosity at the end of the weld. Its a good aid for any weld.
Cheers Col.

Nice quote. Everyone is allowed an opinion.:U

Paulo, Great to read your achivements, its no mean feat to pass TIG with out any back ground in metal, what TAFE are you going to? Col.

Hay Mark, Something that may help: a good T.A. , or some 'quality time' with the Misses! So get set up, volts on what ever you think is a good start , then roughly match that with your amps/wire. Now...

Are you saying that the position requires a different setting than downhand even when it is the same material to weld? So if I try a piece of 65x65x2.5 and a 25x5 welded downhand and set it all good,...

[QUOTE=Grahame Collins;1017353]As far as wire angle goes ,you want the angle of the wire pointing up. At least 10 -15 degrees above vertical.

Yep, pretty well sayin the same thing. I tend to vary...

Hi Mark, Your torch angle should be around 5degrees bbelow horizontal. I think the problem you had welding the'L' was due to the material being to thin for V-up.V-down would have been fine. Try...

G'day Mark, if you have an ajustable square you'll be able to replecate the other cut.
Sounds like your still getting used to the MIG. Keep going,you'll get there:2tsup:.
When I'm onsite and TIG...

G'day Grahame, after reading your earlier comment on the paste I got work to get some. Cost $40:~, When I asked why I was told "Courier costs". Any way, have you any tips when using it as it seamed...

I hadn't thought of fishplates, good idea for piece of mind.

So many comments about Chinese products! At least we are still making something in Aust. with there tools. But its a shame the way manufacturers are dissapearing here.:doh:

Im a BM and the boys are right, you dont want to stuff it up. But if you do a bit of practice you should be right. I see what chippys do with timber and it scares me:oo:
compared to how I'd do it...

You dont need beam off cuts to practice just some scrap plate. The meathod I've described is standerd for most butt welds.

I have done have done something similar in the past but it was on machinery with Bisalloy fabricated beams. Unless he had awelding procedure to to do that type of prep I bet he was getting payed by...

The 'landing' is tthe flat part that you dont bevel, I hope that makes sense(1.5mm)
You're right about the gap. I use a 20cent coin to set the gap. Use low amps for the root run,it
might pay touse...

For horizontals- you need approx. 1.5mm penitration gap with a 1.5mm landing. Bevel both pieces so the included angle is 60-70 degrees. This way you will be able to weld from one side(down hand) ...

1.2 wire is a bit heavy for a mig that size. you will find it harder to fine tune you're wire speed. Even with 1.2 you will still need to prep you're beam.

Cheak out CIG weld. I've used a 250 single phase in these. A sheety I
know likes his aswell. I'm seeing alot more CIG weld in workshops
so the price must be good on them. On the other hand why not...

I would have thought 80-90amps was a bit high for 2mm rods. Thats about as hot as you would go with 2.5's. Wat's the amp range on the pack say?

I think you r mad to weld HT chain. Maybe contact your nearest specialest chain co. before you do it. I like your idea though

Try running verticle down while aiming to the thicker piece. Its a bit tricky. You'll master it on the last run!:U I use S/S rods sometimes as you can run them at lower amps. Cheers, Col.

I'm a boilermaker/welder and I see a lot more Cig weld machines these days, mainly in 3phase. I did use a 250amp single phase that welded 6mm plate quite well. Electronics dont seem to be a problem...