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What happened to the good old days of cork and timber gloss, followed by super satin :)

More than likely for a commerical finish, some type of two pack, or pre-catalysed nitrocellulose lacquer, these types of products also often come with a spray stain, normally a spirit stain of sorts...

techinically although the hls+filter 7 option is the most UV resistant partially due to the higher film build in the filter 7, you could probably quite happily use 3 coats of HLS which is still a...

Hmmm not so sure about that, although because they are dye's they suffer from transparency so the substrate has influence on the finale result. As with solid pigment most blacks have an undertone...

Strictly speaking a 2 pack product is any product, lacquer, epoxy, polyurethane or other more obscure resin, that requires a seperate catalyst to be added prior to application for it to dry.

A...

Erm well... I'm guessing.... minwax lives up to its name and contains wax... and you've put a solvent based poly over it, meaning the wax is interfereing with the poly, and as its still cissing on...

Ok, lots of issues...

New Merbau is chock full of tannin and oils, this makes coating it problematic. Left to its own devices it will leech these extractives and dry out over a period of time...

Never used it for anything other than spraying myself, but nitro can be applied with a rag/pad on a lathe, seen some good results that way too. Most usual solvent is either whatever expensive...

I've seen polyester resin used most frequently for a filler with no colour. It tends to conform to whatever color the area its used in is, so cracks will look black and natural but they are filled. ...

Not sure about being able to preserve the existing finish, depends on what finish it is. On the other hand, you have a ready solvent for the nail polish, nail polish remover, or acetone. Either that...

Unfortunately anything that is oil based will yellow with time. Just part of the oxidation process. Not to mention that the timber will lose some of its blonde/pink tonings and yellow on exposure...

Don't know what anyone else thinks, but slapping a few coats of cooking oil on it, gives you a non-toxic finish that isn't going to melt off into your cooking, and as it leeches out the stuff is...

I would have replied earlier but the website was cracking the sads on me. I personally have sikkens on a deck at home. Love the stuff, looks great works better than any other "coating" I know. But...

You can also get rid of ridges by sanding, best brush results are with a polishing mop, or steal a decent make up brush from your wife. They give a much more even flow of a shellac type product than...

Hmmm well, either one of those 2 suggestions is worth contemplating. What kind of cabinet is this? If you expect it to take wear and tear, then I'd lean towards the ESP but with oil undercoat, as...

Can't give you a good solution, usually bamboo, and for that matter split cane are hard to coat due to their waxy impervious surfaces.

Depends on the location, the dryer the site they're stored in the quicker they will dry out as the timber will try to achieve equilibrium with the environment in which it is stored. Actual time.......

not sure if you want to finish it or work it from your post. I'd be more worried about its stability during drying than the finish you're going to use... probably leave it for some time to...

Any single pack polyurethane product (clean up in turps, estapol cabothane etc.) will go over danish oil with a minimum of hassle. Most of the Danish Oils available are essentially thin poly...

yup, thats just your sanded surface. In sanding it you end up with a surface that isn't smooth hence the cloudiness. Coat it, and that will just disappear permanently. Bare in mind though, if your...

polyurethane is by no means bullet proof, and in case of scratching will take more effort to repair, especially if you've waxed over it. 2pak isn't neccesarily your best option either. Your other...

Its probably what your surface now looks like when its dry. Give it a wipe over with either a tak cloth or something like a bit of terry with a bit of turps on it, not to much though. Anything...

Usually a pigment stain of some description, I find the Wattyl interior stain gives a reasonably good density across a good range of timbers. But you may need to try and even out the porosity...

Usually streaky uneven finishes are the result of overbrushing or just not putting enough material on the surface. The material hasn't had enough time to flow out after you've finished brushing...

Most of those solvents, lacquer thinners, enamel thinner, theres another one, can't recall off the top of my head which one it is now, have pretty much the same ingredients. What generally changes...

Unfortunately there is no hard and fast way to do this. And your results may vary. There are graining combs, most of the ones I've seen look a little like a variation on tile adhesive spreader. ...

I'll throw the spanner in the works, have to agree with the appraisal it looks sad. However if you try wetting it down with some turps how much of the damage seems to disappear? If a significant...

The remains of your waterbased finish will let go with some metho. It attacks waterbased coatings, acrylics in particular. Like everything the longer its been on the hard it will be to remove.
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For a 20's piece you've also got a chance it'll be coated in nitrocellulose lacquer. Whatever the finish reviver is won't hurt it if it is Nitro. May not have much effect though either. I'd be...

Always found, natural/neutral wax for light/smooth timbers. Anything with open grain, you need something with a bit of color to stop the wax showing up whitish in the grain, or scratches if its a...